Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

Hi

OK I admit I'm a bit of a lurker but that's only beause I still seem to know less than others on the forum. :bowdown: :bowdown:

What a great tutorial and really clear pictures. That makes such a difference. I am doing this on my RY Hayabusa and have used the Morgan on my ZZR1100 in the past which is probably a bit easier as it's got standard carbs. :crowbar:

Now got the TBs in sync but not clear as to what the benefit of disconnecting the "P.A.I.R." tube is on either 1st or 4th TB? Does it matter if I leave it as it was originally in terms of overall benefit? Reluctant to put it all back together if I find out it does make a significant difference, as I'm basically lazy and don't want to take it apart again.

If Jinkster's still linked in to this thread I'd be interested to hear his thoughts. :coolcool::coolcool::coolcool:

Cheers guys

Justin
 
Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

Anyone do this on their Gen 2. The manual says you need a software tool to turn off the ISC using the SDSS tool then turn it back on. Sounds like a dealer only thing.
 
Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

Ok I have read all of the posts. Did I over look how you calibrate the manometer?
 
Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

Anyone do this on their Gen 2. The manual says you need a software tool to turn off the ISC using the SDSS tool then turn it back on. Sounds like a dealer only thing.

Ha your funny, most dealer dont even have it! I ask my local dealer to buy one, and they could not find out what i was talking about!
I bought mine on Ebay!
 
Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

Ha your funny, most dealer dont even have it! I ask my local dealer to buy one, and they could not find out what i was talking about!
I bought mine on Ebay!
Any other info?
Cost, name of software?
What else is needed.
 
I just sync'd the TB's. While I was doing it I noticed the bike was running super rich. Is this normal while syncing the TB's?
 
I put the bike back together, fired it up and it ran like normal again. Your right though it was a stinky process!
 
I put the bike back together, fired it up and it ran like normal again. Your right though it was a stinky process!
I know this an old thread but its such a good one. I just finished my tb's and the whole time the bike ran like crap with my tubes fluctuating allot. I left the IAT in the airbox and rested it off the side of the bike. I've hooked up the other two hoses as Jinxster suggests but it's like I have to constantly adjust the idle or else the bike eventually chokes. I got the tubes looking pretty good when the idle was stable but I would feel better having a nice even idle during the whole process.
Can you tell me if I'm missing anything?
 
Hi
actually?.....no....you don't....as I just recently learned that if you screw with that TPS at all?...you'll #### up your E.C.U. in a big way..and as I understand?...it's a major biotch to recover and get the TPS to that same exact spot to once again give your factory mapped ecu a proper read again...in other words?...

Kids?...DON'T Try This One At Home!

L8R, Bill. View attachment 777142
hi jinkster.
I'm a bit confused about what you said about, not touching the tps, I was lead to believe that as long as you have the -00 in dealer mode, while engine running, blip the throttle and it returns to -00, if this is showing then it is directly linked to the ecu, is this not the case?
 
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