"Motorcycle Oil" SCAM!!

eynlai

Registered
I've suspected since the first week I got my busa. We've all at one point or another wondered "can I use conventional / synthetic (blend or not) automotive oil in my bike??".

Now I've found a couple of good articles that shows that most of us has been wasting $$$, one (top one) of them is backed by a scientific test conducted by a professor of physics at Cal. State University too!! From what I've read, the only real difference is between dino vs. full-synthetic vs. synthetic blend NOT motorcycle oil vs. auto oil.

http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm

http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm

Question: How many of you that religously use only "motorcycle oil" bought Monster Cables for your stereo / home theater system?
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Cables can make a huge difference in your sound system. You should budget at least 10% or more of your system money to accomodate them. MC is a great brand and so are some others. I have listened to cable that is over $1000 per foot, now that is extreme, but it does make a difference. Sorry to get off of topic but you asked. Thanks for the ingo though!
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Actually, for speaker cables it all depend on the gauge. The quality in that arena would depend mainly on the anti-corrosion characteristics. So with that said, a 14 or 12 AWG at 75 cents / foot would sound equally as good as the $40/ft cable from MC or even Cardas. When I was killing time on that subject, I've also read a scientifc and blind test report on that subject as well.

Sorry to say, but it's mainly pyschological rather than actual.

But back to the subject oil subject at hand: If everyone gather around the right side of our 'busas to read the little sticker, it just say 10-40w SG classified/approved. Nothing in there about using specifically "motorcycle" oil only.

With that said, I'm wondering if they're still running the $1.99 special at Kragen for the Valvoline and Castrol synthetic blend (regular auto)?? I'll ride down there to check tomorrow.
 
Go ahead, Find me a car with a Clutch that bathes in it's own Motor oil... That Rev's to 10K on a regular basis, that is saddled with consistantly too small of radiators, or that generally displace more HP per Litre than anything on the planet... New Litre bikes are easy to figure out...150HP/Litre... Not much in the automotive world even comes close. Those that do, specificaly Ferarri, Porsche...etc Come with extremely exotic Synthetic oils allready inside... Now why would the Factory do that? $25+ a Litre for the specific oils being used in many of todays higher performance motors.

This discussion of car oils in Bikes has been going on for years. The two links above aren't going to convince me one way or another. What did convince me was a test Sport Rider did a few months back with synthetics and Dino Oils tested back to back with an Automotive oil thrown in for good measure. The Dino's were all about the same, However the Quality synthetics (Quality) performed much better in the areas that matter most, Viscosity retention (Ability to stay in grade), and resistance to heat. All the Synthetics outperformed the Dino Oil's.

But if based on the two links you posted your ready to go ahead and throw Freaking K-Mart oil into your ride go for it! But to label Motorcycle Oil a scam? Hardley, especially if we are talking something other than "Honda" oil...

If saving money is a concern then I would recommend just selling the Busa, buying a Celica or something similar and then running Automotive Oil.
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Oh and Yeah, Buy A Premium Full Ester Based Synthetic Motor Oil for your next oil change, I dig Silkolene Pro-4 10W-40... Anyway put that Sh!t in your bike, ride for 30 minutes and then tell me that Bike oil is a scam... You will be amazed....
 
Go ahead, Find me a car with a Clutch that bathes in it's own Motor oil...  That Rev's to 10K on a regular basis, that is saddled with consistantly too small of radiators, or that generally displace more HP per Litre than anything on the planet...  New Litre bikes are easy to figure out...150HP/Litre...  Not much in the automotive world even comes close.  Those that do, specificaly Ferarri, Porsche...etc  Come with extremely exotic Synthetic oils allready inside...  Now why would the Factory do that?  $25+ a Litre for the specific oils being used in many of todays higher performance motors.

This discussion of car oils in Bikes has been going on for years.  The two links above aren't going to convince me one way or another.  What did convince me was a test Sport Rider did a few months back with synthetics and Dino Oils tested back to back with an Automotive oil thrown in for good measure.  The Dino's were all about the same, However the Quality synthetics (Quality) performed much better in the areas that matter most, Viscosity retention (Ability to stay in grade), and resistance to heat.  All the Synthetics outperformed the Dino Oil's.    

But if based on the two links you posted your ready to go ahead and throw Freaking K-Mart oil into your ride go for it!  But to label Motorcycle Oil a scam?  Hardley, especially if we are talking something other than "Honda" oil...

If saving money is a concern then I would recommend just selling the Busa, buying a Celica or something similar and then running Automotive Oil.  
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Oh and Yeah, Buy A Premium Full Ester Based Synthetic Motor Oil for your next oil change, I dig Silkolene Pro-4 10W-40...  Anyway put that Sh!t in your bike, ride for 30 minutes and then tell me that Bike oil is a scam...  You will be amazed....
I put synthetic in my Busa for the first time. Big difference! The way I see it, what I paid for in oil, I'll save in repairs later. As hot as it gets out here, I'll never believe that MC oil is the same as cager oil. Too much difference in performance requirements. I use Motorex Power Synt 4T, 10w/50. The sales associate recommended it for Busas. Any thoughts on that brand?
 
Well said, Rev.. I read that report in Sport Rider too and I'm switching to a 'blend' to start.. maybe full synth later.
 
Actually, for speaker cables it all depend on the gauge.  The quality in that arena would depend mainly on the anti-corrosion characteristics.  So with that said, a 14 or 12 AWG at 75 cents / foot would sound equally as good as the $40/ft cable from MC or even Cardas.  When I was killing time on that subject, I've also read a scientifc and blind test report on that subject as well.  

Sorry to say, but it's mainly pyschological rather than actual.
WRONG!
I don't know what your background is but mine in the car audio field is significant, including having been an international instructor for IASCA (International Auto Sound Challenge Association), over 12 years of install, management, and custom systems. I have seen, listened to, and judged systems that exceed half a million dollars. I have built more systems than I can count and had my installs featured in national magazines. Not to flame ya but your flat wrong. Sorry to thread wreck but you did throw the comment in there. Maybe we can start another thread and debate this later.
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<span style='font-family:times'><span style='font-size:13pt;line-height:100%'><span style='color:orangered'>This is more like it - The 'ol cable arguement is always a good one but as a cynical sparky i fail to see how oxygen free cable etc can make such a difference other than thicker cable being less resistive.
You car audio guys really seem to be market orientated and go way over the top for normal listening pleasures
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Justintime2, and you can tell me you can spot check the difference in a blind test under a controlled environment, or how about a double-blind test? Yup, the report I read on cables was done under a double-blind test condition. For those of you not familar with statistics, that means the neither the test subjects NOR the proctor knew which machine was hooked up with the expensive cables.

Back to the subject of oils: Read my original posting AGAIN, it's "motocycle" oil vs. car oil, not dino vs. syn. There is not an once of doubt that syn is superior over dino, in vescosity longivity. A "motorcycle" syn or syn-blend will of coarse beat out the dino car oil. So lets compare apple to apples and dino to dino or syn to syn. Obviously, some of you posted your retort WITHOUT even reading the articles of the two links, especially the one that THE ACTUAL SCIENTIFIC research in measurement of oil integrity between 2 syn (car and moto) and two dino (car and moto). If you did, then you can't deny the numbers, and the numbers said that even the Castro GTX CAR Oil even beat out the supposed moto syn-blend stuff. Read further, it even details how the test oils were sent for an scientific oil analysis to see what "wear and tear" did each of the 4 oils contain... Ironically, the analysis was done by a Motocycle oil company that can't even say that based on the analysis that their 'motorcycle" oil was better.

READ IT, I mean really really READ IT. And weep. Dispite what you think, it's psychological. You're in a state of post-purchase dissonance, especially since you just paid $7 / qt of oil and you don't want to be told you've overspend. It's natural to defend one's own decision. By the way, my background is in Marketing, and yes, in school and in some parts of my earlier work, we've studied and practiced to capture... I hate to say sucker, so let's just say unwitty consumers such as yourselves. Go back and read what you've all wrote in response to my offer of the hard truth! Not only are you unwitty consumers, you are perfect consumers, you are so loyal to these companies that sold you overpriced oil, you're willing to verbally attack and try to put down a fellow rider (that has nothing to gain!) that offers you the concrete, sciencetific based numbers.

I'm no genius, but there is a professor at a certain California State University that did some very meticulous tests on what seems to me to be with unbias approach, and like it or not, the results are in.

Think you can actually tell the difference? How about one of you that is so certain about your golden oil conduct a double-blind test as mentioned above??

It's very simple, takes three people and a bike, or maybe even just two (then it will be just a blind test). One person will go buy a 10-40w oil, regardless of "motorcycle" or car, but it must be of the same blend that you've been used to (dino, syn-blend or full-syn), this buyer will then pour the 3.5 qt into a non-descriptive container, so no one but the buyer will know whether it's car oil or "motorcycle" oil. And the tester will do a regular oil change using that new oil in the non-descriptive container.

See if the tester can tell the difference.

Who's ballzy enough to take this blind test??
 
Justintime2, and you can tell me you can spot check the difference in a blind test under a controlled environment, or how about a double-blind test?  Yup, the report I read on cables was done under a double-blind test condition.  For those of you not familar with statistics, that means the neither the test subjects NOR the proctor knew which machine was hooked up with the expensive cables.

Back to the subject of oils:  Read my original posting AGAIN, it's "motocycle" oil vs. car oil, not dino vs. syn.  There is not an once of doubt that syn is superior over dino, in vescosity longivity.  A "motorcycle" syn or syn-blend will of coarse beat out the dino car oil.  So lets compare apple to apples and dino to dino or syn to syn.  Obviously, some of you posted your retort WITHOUT even reading the articles of the two links, especially the one that THE ACTUAL SCIENTIFIC research in measurement of oil integrity between 2 syn (car and moto) and two dino (car and moto).  If you did, then you can't deny the numbers, and the numbers said that even the Castro GTX CAR Oil even beat out the supposed moto syn-blend stuff.  Read further, it even details how the test oils were sent for an scientific oil analysis to see what "wear and tear" did each of the 4 oils contain... Ironically, the analysis was done by a Motocycle oil company that can't even say that based on the analysis that their 'motorcycle" oil was better.

READ IT, I mean really really READ IT.  And weep.  Dispite what you think, it's psychological.  You're in a state of post-purchase dissonance, especially since you just paid $7 / qt of oil and you don't want to be told you've overspend.  It's natural to defend one's own decision.  By the way, my background is in Marketing, and yes, in school and in some parts of my earlier work, we've studied and practiced to capture... I hate to say sucker, so let's just say unwitty consumers such as yourselves.  Go back and read what you've all wrote in response to my offer of the hard truth!  Not only are you unwitty consumers, you are perfect consumers, you are so loyal to these companies that sold you overpriced oil, you're willing to verbally attack and try to put down a fellow rider (that has nothing to gain!) that offers you the concrete, sciencetific based numbers.  

I'm no genius, but there is a professor at a certain California State University that did some very meticulous tests on what seems to me to be with unbias approach, and like it or not, the results are in.  

Think you can actually tell the difference?  How about one of you that is so certain about your golden oil conduct a double-blind test as mentioned above??

It's very simple, takes three people and a bike, or maybe even just two (then it will be just a blind test).  One person will go buy a 10-40w oil, regardless of "motorcycle" or car, but it must be of the same blend that you've been used to (dino, syn-blend or full-syn), this buyer will then pour the 3.5 qt into a non-descriptive container, so no one but the buyer will know whether it's car oil or "motorcycle" oil.  And the tester will do a regular oil change using that new oil in the non-descriptive container.

See if the tester can tell the difference.

Who's ballzy enough to take this blind test??
You have a fair Point, sorry if it sounded like an attack, and yeah I went south with my Synthetic tangent... my Bad...

However, I did read the articles, I have read many others like them. This argument has been going on for years and years, and it's not going to get solved here. What I learned after going through web-page after web page, and reading article after article is that although 20 years ago there may have been a significant difference between Bike or car oils, there may not be as much of a difference now. This is true when we are talking about Viscosity retention, shear resistance, and heat tolerance. However, what bike oils still possess that car oils do not are higher levels of anti-friction, anti-acid, and anti-wear compounds that are no longer allowed in Automotive oils due to emission restrictions. Maybe no point to them, maybe there is a point.

Now if I get a chance this weekend I will scan and post the Sport-Rider Oil Tests conducted awhile back, they look deeper into the properties of modern oils than either of the two links you provided. Of course something that is universally true is understanding the Motives/reasons behind "Scientific Research" conducted to prove this or that. If said researcher goes into a "test" trying to prove that Bike and Automotive oils are the same, that is what he his likely to find. It's not a new concept, finding the motivation, or the money behind the research is frequently enlightening...

In regards to your Synth VS Dino oil Challenge I say I already did it. I did not buy $12 a liter Silkolene oil blindly, hell $12 for a freaking liter of oil... WTF? I looked at some test results, read the "Fancy Packaging" and I was pretty damned skeptical. I don't buy hype; I buy products with a skeptical eye, with a "we'll see" attitude. So your comment about I hate to say sucker, so let's just say unwitty consumers such as yourselves.[/QUOTE] is not only insulting it's simply untrue. Do the Majority of American's buy into the Marketing bullshit we are constantly insulted/assaulted by, well yeah, but as a blanket statement your well off the mark and do not assume that because you have a "Marketing Background" you are somehow gifted with special insight or purchasing Savvy, though it does take guts to admit to such a background...

Anyway, like I said I was pretty damned skeptical that I would be able to notice ANY difference when changing from dino oil to the Silkolene. I took a quick ride get some heat into the oil and was paying particular attention to sounds and feel. I replaced the dino oil with the Silkolene and went out again. The minute I started the bike I got a raised eyebrow.... Hmmm, the valve train was a little quieter... Still not sure, I back out of the garage and roll out. The minute I started working through the gears I was completely floored. It felt like my tranny had been to the gunsmiths and gotten an action job. It felt and continues to feel like a different tranny. Perfect smooth shifts, accompanied by a lighter actuation and a perfect snick snick... OK, now I was impressed, I was expecting no change and instead got a very significant one. However, the claim I was most skeptical of was the "Increases Horsepower" claim, I am thinking yeah...heard that promise before...Anyone remember slick 50? But, I will tell you that the Busa truly does feel more powerful, significantly? NO, but something I could feel in the lightness of the front end under full throttle... SOTP dyno estimate, 3-4 H.P. Do I sound misguided? Am I just trying to feel better about buying way pricey oil? Do I own stock in Fuchs/Silkolene? I don't think so, was my little comparison "scientific" no, but were there distinct before and after differences? Yes... felt them witnessed them first hand...

Anyway, I just went on another Synthetic tangent here, my bad... But hell, what do you expect from a "unwitty consumer"? Which, after thinking about it is a really shitty lil jab at the board members here, and yeah I'm pissed. So uh… to be more direct, FUG you...
 
touche', Rev. Your closing probably summed it all up with the best responses yet. But to point out the holes in your arguement: The professor that conducted the test, is what I believe to be a bonafided scientist, with no motives that I can see other than finding the truth. So with that it's probably safe to assume that he went into this test with NO bias, if he did then we can further assume that he went in the traditional scientific or statical method of hypothesizing (or null), and working towards dissproving the hypothesis to come to a deduced conclusion. Example: Hypothesis: There is a difference between "motorcycle oil" and car oil. What then he will be to prove against that hypothesis. At the end of the test, will the results show that statement to be true or false?

Now, let's just say that our professor did have a monetary motive. Who would pay him? More than likely one of the big oil/lubrication companies like Castro, Penzoil, Valvoline, Mobil, etc... Not the smaller ones like Sylko or Amsoil, or some other niche market company. And why would the big company want to dish out money on this? To get us riders to buy THEIR car oil instead of the motorcycle oil?? This is a flaw logic because:

1. As many as there are riders in the US, we are outnumbered significantly by non-riders. The market pool is too small for them to make more than a minor effort to get into compared to the enormous market of car drivers.

2. And some of them actually market motorcycle oil! Such as Valvoline and Mobil, so for them to dish out money to have a study done that may draw sales from their higher profit motorcycle oil to their lower profit car oil would be counter-product cannibalism. If anything, they would put money into a research that shows motorcycle oil IS different from car oil. Not the type a research and test result that our professor put forth.

3. You might ask, what of the ones that want to draw sales away from Amsoil and other smaller motorcycle oil companies? Once again, the motorcycle market is so small in comparison to the car market, I doubt they want to go through the effort. If they really wanted to, they'll buy-out one of these smaller ones and just keep the name as a subsidary.

And as far as for your personal, quick oil swap test? I don't think it's very valid. Regardless of whether you went into the mindset of support or skeptism, you went in with the knowledge of kind of oil went in.

You seem to the be the perfect person to conduct the blind test that I've mentioned. Have a friend change your oil without letting you know if it's motorcycle oil or car oil and see what you come up with. If you really want to be sure, then do it twice without knowledge.

If you can come back and say you absolutely knew what went in without your friend telling you, then I'll immediately go out to buy 4 quarts of the syn-blend motorcycle oil, scan the reciept and post it on this site. I trust you'll tell us how it went.

Maybe we can learn the truth about oil here for ourselves. If not, then one thing that I don't think anyone can dispute is that oil should NOT be on the list of topics not to be discussed over the Thanksgiving dinner table, just like politics, religion, and sexual orientation.
 
... Example:  Hypothesis: There is a difference between "motorcycle oil" and car oil.  What then he will be to prove against that hypothesis.  At the end of the test, will the results show that statement to be true or false?

Now, let's just say that our professor did have a monetary motive.  Who would pay him?  More than likely one of the big oil/lubrication companies like Castro, Penzoil, Valvoline, Mobil, etc... Not the smaller ones like Sylko or Amsoil, or some other niche market company.  And why would the big company want to dish out money on this?  To get us riders to buy THEIR car oil instead of the motorcycle oil??  This is a flaw logic because:

1. As many as there are riders in the US, we are outnumbered significantly by non-riders.  The market pool is too small for them to make more than a minor effort to get into compared to the enormous market of car drivers.

2. And some of them actually market motorcycle oil!  Such as Valvoline and Mobil, so for them to dish out money to have a study done that may draw sales from their higher profit motorcycle oil to their lower profit car oil would be counter-product cannibalism.  If anything, they would put money into a research that shows motorcycle oil IS different from car oil.  Not the type a research and test result that our professor put forth.

3.  You might ask, what of the ones that want to draw sales away from Amsoil and other smaller motorcycle oil companies?  Once again, the motorcycle market is so small in comparison to the car market, I doubt they want to go through the effort.  If they really wanted to, they'll buy-out one of these smaller ones and just keep the name as a subsidary.[/QUOTE]

----It's not so much a monetary motive I was speaking of so much as a "desire to help" motive.  

  The Prof. in question contacted MCN to offer assistance.. "we received a letter from John Woolum, a professor of physics at California State University - and a motorcyclist - who noted that he was investigating in the same area on his own. Not being ones to look a gift horse in the mouth, we contacted Dr. Woolum and encouraged him to expand his research on our behalf."

It's the bolded lines above that set off my "Lacks Impartiality" radar.  I never insinuated that the good Prof was being paid by big oil, the arguments against this as mentioned above are indeed quite valid.  However, what we do have is a fellow motorcyclist, who is obviously a fan of MCN, and had some foreknowledge of the article being written and the direction, or perceived direction the author wanted the article to take.  Is it such a stretch of the imagination then to imagine the Professor consciously, or unconsciously manipulating the test conditions, or sample to ensure a potentially inferior automotive oil shows statistically similar performance to the more costly bike only blends?  Not for money, but to be of assistance.  In the first few lines of the MCN article it becomes clear that the angle presented is going to be that of "Bike Oil is BS save your Money."  How uncomfortable or useless would the Profs efforts have been in this case if indeed his results showed that Bike only oil was in fact far superior...  Well, he would no longer be of any use, and the author of the article would be left in a bind and would prolly ignore the good doctor’s research... After all it doesn't support the article...  The Professor knows this...  I think it renders his statements and his findings suspect.

And as far as for your personal, quick oil swap test?  I don't think it's very valid.  Regardless of whether you went into the mindset of support or skeptism, you went in with the knowledge of kind of oil went in.[/QUOTE]  

Umm, this I do not agree with...  As I mentioned I was skeptical, having been suckered in by SLICK50 back in High School I do not buy into any claim that this "Miracle Fluid" will make you faster.  My knowledge of which product is in my bike is irrelevant, especially when I am expecting no results, or improvements...I am not claiming a scientific basis, what I am claiming is significant improvement based on real world results.  I am pretty damn mechanically sympathetic, I pay attention to all the little noises, vibes and feedback on my bike or in my car, and I am here telling you, that the Silkolene made a huge difference in the tranny, and a difference in the amount of noise coming from the motor.  As I mentioned Power increase is by SOTP Dyno only and not a true measure nor something we can verify.

You seem to the be the perfect person to conduct the blind test that I've mentioned.  Have a friend change your oil without letting you know if it's motorcycle oil or car oil and see what you come up with.  If you really want to be sure, then do it twice without knowledge. [/QUOTE]

Um, No...  I am the wrong man, I don't mind spending $40 on oil every 3K miles, but I am not spending $80 on a test over a day...  Besides, once the full synthetic is in there, how many oil changes would it take to flush it all out?  At what point could we be certain that there is no longer any residual Synthetic inside that motor?  We would have to start with a couple of fresh, right out of the crate busas, break them in the same, perform the initial service, then put a Premium Synthetic in one bike and compare the two...  Dyno, before and after, noise levels, Tranny effort. Etc...

If you can come back and say you absolutely knew what went in without your friend telling you, then I'll immediately go out to buy 4 quarts of the syn-blend motorcycle oil, scan the receipt and post it on this site.  I trust you'll tell us how it went.[/QUOTE]

What I am offering is my word that the Silkolene Pro-4 Race, 10W40 Full Synthetic made a serious difference in my transmissions smoothness and feel, while at the same time quieting down the valve train.  This is a no BS endorsement.  I would have absolutely NO problem in calling Silkolene Crap if it was Crap...especially cause it would be some damned pricey crap.  So I would say just go ahead, buy four litres of Silkolene and try it yourself.  If you do not notice the difference then you can say I am full of it...

As for this being a topic best not discussed at the dinner table… I would offer up that we have repeatedly argued religion without a major blow-up, so I think motor oils, while polarizing is a safe subject.
 
eynlai:

I read those articles a long time ago and found them very interesting.

Right now my Busa is being broken in with Castrol GTX.  Once it hits 1000 miles I'll go with Castrol Syntec Blend...by 2500 I'll switch to full synthetic, either Castrol or Mobile I.

There's no denying synthetic is better, however the "motorcycle only" oils are pure hype imo.

One of my best friends was talked into buying the MC oil by the counter guy at the local dealer.  He's fairly impressionable and thinks the $9.00 an hour counter guy "must know what he's talking about because that's what he gets paid for".

I LMAO off when I sent him that link showing that the $1.49 a quart Castrol GTX ranked higher than the $7.00 a quart MC oil he bought.

My little CXT's have been running nicely for years on Castrol Syntec Blend.  I'd run full synthentic but the wet clutches don't like it.  Considering those little Twins are pushing ~100HP per 1/2 litre I'd say the oil environment is 100X more harsh on those bikes than a Busa with it's large displacement engine, monsterous radiator AND oil cooler.

Going even further...
Since the 70's when oil quality started getting better along with engine tolerances, how many people (who regularly change their oil with any brand...even K-Mart blue light special brand) have ever worn out a bike engine, car engine or even a lawnmower engine?

Can't say I've ever worn out a set of rings, worn down a cam or spun a bearing.  Never had a car that burned oil either.  Typically when a car or bike hits over 100K miles it starts nickle and diming you and by 200K miles you junk it because of body rot or problems that have nothing to do with engine lubrication.

These oil flame fests get taken way too seriously.  Change the friggin oil and filter regularly with whatever you want and the engine will be fine.  If buying the MC stuff gives you peace of mind go for it.

Revlis:
Just curious, did you try a regular full synthetic oil before trying Silkolene and not get the same smooth results?



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Actually, I went to buy oil and a filter at the local Yamaha Dealership. (Yeah they have Suzuki Filters, service guy owns a Busa) anyway, I had read the oil test conducted by Sport Rider or Motorcyclist... (Whichever it was) and had only decided to buy a full Ester synthetic. I got to the shop and they had a couple of choices Silkolene and something else. I remembered Silkolene from the test so I figured what the hell...

I haven't looked back...

I figure, the costs associated with motor oil are kinda like those of gasoline, not something I am really worried about. If I gotta worry about the cost of either, then I'm prolly overextended and should sell the bike anyway...
The important thing to me was a full Ester Base. From what I have read, the Ester Synthetics are the cats ass.

So the REALLY FUGGING long answer to your question bro... Is NO I didn't try anything before I tried Silkolene, just regular oil.

You have a pretty good point though, change your oil often enough and you prolly have nothing to worry about.
I just feel better knowing I am running a product through my bikes veins that may provide me with that extra bit of hot temperature protection should I need it... May be silly, but i feel pretty damned comfortable...

Rev
 
Hi people,
I discussed this subject with a lawyer mate of mine (yes he has sold his sole to Satan) and he advised me that given any subject to argue, he could find a scientist/expert/authority with all the qualifications to back up whatever side of an argument you might choose.

One expert does not prove a hypothesis.

As for me, I use quality motorcycle specific synthetic oil.

I get my advice from a hanger of aircraft engineers that rebuild not only piston/turbine aircraft engines but also their own bike and car power plants.

These guys actually SEE the wear pattens in their engines resulting from different oils and even slip in their own used bike oils for analysis with the aircraft oils (SOAP testing) to keep an eye on things.

I’m certainly no oil expert but I’m prepared to listen to people that actually work on engines for a living.

That’s my 2c worth anyway.

Ride Safe
Ross
 
Guys,

Both Topics:
1. I worked in the Audio Industry for over 20 years as the Director of Sales and Marketing for 2 major Speaker manufacturers. Speaker Wires and Cables can make a "huge" difference in performance in "good quality" Audio systems, and are well worth the money they cost. You just need a system that justifies the investment. Anybody that tells you differently is either uninformed or deaf or both.

As for the oil topic the Sport Rider tests on motor oil convinced me that motorcycle specific oil is formulated for the unique demands of an oil that handles motor, transmission and in some cases clutch loads. I would reccomend that anyone who doesn't think so read the 2 issue article, review the facts from their tests, and then make an informed decision.

Kent
 
And on the subject of speaker cables, heavier cables with as many conductors as you can get can help.
The bulk of current is transmitted on the skin of a conductor (skin effect), so the more surface area can improve bass response that has some really high instantaneous transients.
Transmission of complex AC waveforms is a really complicated issue; the whole key is to keep resistance low and surface area high.
Remembering though, expensive high quality cables will not produce noticeable improvements on a cheap speaker/amp set-up.
Another area that will help even more is a good power supply in your amp, bigger capacitors are better. You can’t belt out big noise without a fast recovery and high instantaneous power output. Most amps power supplies are not rated to their output and rely on caps to fill in the big thumps that they’re not up to; it’s all a matter of cost.
I can’t comment on things like low oxygen cables and the like but as a comms tech I know some basics.
Remember, like engines, you get to the point diminishing returns where that little extra HP or audio quality costs more and more. You just have to think “do I really need/want it†and go from there. And yes, there’s scams and bullshit everywhere.
Do your research.

Now I’ve bored you all to death

Have a good one

Ross
wink.gif
 
Actually, I went to buy oil and a filter at the local Yamaha Dealership.  (Yeah they have Suzuki Filters, service guy owns a Busa) anyway, I had read the oil test conducted by Sport Rider or Motorcyclist... (Whichever it was) and had only decided to buy a full Ester synthetic.  I got to the shop and they had a couple of choices Silkolene and something else.  I remembered Silkolene from the test so I figured what the hell...
People seem to be treating this Sport Rider magazine article like it's the bible on engine oil. Has anyone bothered to look at the sponsors that support that magazine? There are dozens if not possibly hundreds. I also see quite a few banner ads on their website with dealers that just so happen to sell the highly rated MC only oils.

I don't even trust Consumer Reports let alone any magazine that rely's on sponsors.
Take Car and Driver for instance...they do a test report on the top 5 Sport Touring cars, the Jap crap Toyota came in first eventhough the second place Jag beat the hell out of the Toyota in every test they performed. Their reason? The Toyota had built in back massagers in the rear seats!!! WTF??

As far a friends of friends tearing down their car and bike engines to see wear patterns...why are they tearing their engines down all the time? I've got a 38 year old Corvair and a 30 year old Corvette in my garage and I couldn't even begin to tell you what the wear patterns look like. All I know is that in 3+ decades of use either can be taken to the track or ridden cross country, neither burn oil and both are still within factory specs as far as compression. The Stingrays engine has never been opened and the Corvair engine was rebuilt once about 15 years ago, not due to wear or failure but for extreme high performance reasons only.

Personally I take all my information from multiple sources including the biased magazines, independent studies, individual responses (I'll take silkolene into consideration) and gasp...yes even the owners manual and combine it all to make a common sense decision.

And to throw another monkey wrench in the works, it's been said that full synthetics retain more heat than dino oil
smile.gif
 
Rev, Turbo also has a very valid point about these magazines. Something I forgot to mention. But back to your suspicision that our good professor maybe bias, he certain seem to be less bias than the motorcycle magazine you got your citing from.

I'll certainly give the synt-blend a try, but only the regular car stuff at $4/bottle not the $12/bottle "motorcycle". In fact, I already got 4 quarts of the Castro syn-blend ready. I'm just waiting for the bike to hit 2400 miles, because I did the 1st oil & filter change myself at 400 miles and bought it to the dealer again at 650 miles for their "first" service. I've put the 10-40W Valvoline "motorcycle" oil in my change. I have no idea what they put in when I took it to them for the second change. I do suspect they only changed the oil and maybe not the filter because I put on a Fram during my change and I see a Fram on there after I bought it to them.

Yes, I heard Frams are bad, I got a couple of Purolator oil filters ready for my own change with the castro.

I can buy into the syn-blend or even synthetic stuff, but not the "motorcycle" oil stuff. But we'll see. I might even have my friend change the oil for me to do a blind test myself to see if I can feel the difference.
 
Actually, I went to buy oil and a filter at the local Yamaha Dealership.  (Yeah they have Suzuki Filters, service guy owns a Busa) anyway, I had read the oil test conducted by Sport Rider or Motorcyclist... (Whichever it was) and had only decided to buy a full Ester synthetic.  I got to the shop and they had a couple of choices Silkolene and something else.  I remembered Silkolene from the test so I figured what the hell...
People seem to be treating this Sport Rider magazine article like it's the bible on engine oil.  Has anyone bothered to look at the sponsors that support that magazine?  There are dozens if not possibly hundreds.  I also see quite a few banner ads on their website with dealers that just so happen to sell the highly rated MC only oils.

I don't even trust Consumer Reports let alone any magazine that rely's on sponsors.
Take Car and Driver for instance...they do a test report on the top 5 Sport Touring cars, the Jap crap Toyota came in first eventhough the second place Jag beat the hell out of the Toyota in every test they performed.  Their reason?  The Toyota had built in back massagers in the rear seats!!! WTF??

As far a friends of friends tearing down their car and bike engines to see wear patterns...why are they tearing their engines down all the time?  I've got a 38 year old Corvair and a 30 year old Corvette in my garage and I couldn't even begin to tell you what the wear patterns look like.  All I know is that in 3+ decades of use either can be taken to the track or ridden cross country, neither burn oil and both are still within factory specs as far as compression.  The Stingrays engine has never been opened and the Corvair engine was rebuilt once about 15 years ago, not due to wear or failure but for extreme high performance reasons only.

Personally I take all my information from multiple sources including the biased magazines, independent studies, individual responses (I'll take silkolene into consideration) and gasp...yes even the owners manual and combine it all to make a common sense decision.

And to throw another monkey wrench in the works, it's been said that full synthetics retain more heat than dino oil
smile.gif
No No Torch, I'm aware of where the article came from and who the whole add dollar concept. But relative to one another, (Oils within the tests) I imagine that the lab they sent their samples doesn't give a crap treated the samples the same. So the article in Sport Rider or Motorcyclist is being treated like gospel not for any percieved lack of bias, but more for it's thouroughness of the products they did test and the absolute superiority of Synthetics.

Eynlai, Instead of a Synth Blend, try a full Synthetic first. Going from Dino, to Blend, you may not notice as much of a difference, but I guarentee you will feel the difference after switching to a Full Synthetic.
 
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