"Motorcycle Oil" SCAM!!

wow a 3 year old thread has come back to life
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Go ahead, Find me a car with a Clutch that bathes in it's own Motor oil...  That Rev's to 10K on a regular basis, that is saddled with consistantly too small of radiators, or that generally displace more HP per Litre than anything on the planet...  New Litre bikes are easy to figure out...150HP/Litre...  Not much in the automotive world even comes close.  Those that do, specificaly Ferarri, Porsche...etc  Come with extremely exotic Synthetic oils allready inside...  Now why would the Factory do that?  $25+ a Litre for the specific oils being used in many of todays higher performance motors.

This discussion of car oils in Bikes has been going on for years.  The two links above aren't going to convince me one way or another.  What did convince me was a test Sport Rider did a few months back with synthetics and Dino Oils tested back to back with an Automotive oil thrown in for good measure.  The Dino's were all about the same, However the Quality synthetics (Quality) performed much better in the areas that matter most, Viscosity retention (Ability to stay in grade), and resistance to heat.  All the Synthetics outperformed the Dino Oil's.    

But if based on the two links you posted your ready to go ahead and throw Freaking K-Mart oil into your ride go for it!  But to label Motorcycle Oil a scam?  Hardley, especially if we are talking something other than "Honda" oil...

If saving money is a concern then I would recommend just selling the Busa, buying a Celica or something similar and then running Automotive Oil.  
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Oh and Yeah, Buy A Premium Full Ester Based Synthetic Motor Oil for your next oil change, I dig Silkolene Pro-4 10W-40...  Anyway put that Sh!t in your bike, ride for 30 minutes and then tell me that Bike oil is a scam...  You will be amazed....
That says it all, the in sport rider artice was very indepth and unbias. I use Amsoil full synthetic motorcycle 10-40
 
I change my oil every 500 miles 'cause when you syphon it out of the neighbours cars at three in the morning you're never sure of the quality.
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saving my money for expensive beer and cheap hos.

cheers
ken
 
Mobil 1 every 2000 miles is working great. I drive my busa nice and I don't even remember when the last time I went over 7-8k rpm
 
oh, and one more thing - I add a little of 'pure sysnthetic oil' to my oil change each time. on the bottle it says 10% for sport bikes. not a bad investment.

I don't race, I enjoy my low reving, comfortable riding busa.... that's how I've been in one piece after riding for 28 years of dirk bikes, cruisers, but mostly sport bikes :-)
 
I have been using this oil for years in all my cars and bikes:

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I was sold when a guy came in with a Goldwing to my friends Honda dealership. It had 45,000 miles on it and had a real bad bottom end growl. Sounded like a rod or crank bearing. The oil was changed to this Opti 4 and the noise went right away and last time I heard of him he had another 20,000 miles on it.
These guys offer a Double Manufacturers Warranty when their oil is used in Power Products. That says something about their stuff. They won't cover motorcycles or autos as they have longer warranties.
Check out the technology part of their site. Makes sense to me.
Dinosaurs had brains the size or walnuts and ruled the earth for millions of years.
I like Dino oil.
10W40 like the manual recommends.
Anybody else use this?

Mike A
2006 LE Busa with 11,000 miles
2000 Land Rover Disco II with 180,000 miles
 
hi, just bought a 04 busa with 15k. runs great, oil looks dark, so I'd like to change it. since I have no prior service history, my questions are: 1)how many qts of oil do I need to buy? 2)should I go full synthetic or did I see that may cause clutch slippage? thanks
Buy 4 quarts, it won't take that much.

Full synthetics with low friction modifiers. Stick with Motorcycle rated oils unless you take the time to really read through some of these threads.  Do a search on Synthetic Oil and you'll have hours of reading to digest. Take the bulk of the opinions and work from there. There is a lot of knowledge on the board but some times you have to weed through to get to it.

I run Mobil 1 Racing 4t  (was called MX4T) and I'm happy with it.
mobil 1 4t thats what i use..and a purolator filter . don`t know if it`s any better??? but like someone said before i can tell in the smoother shifting and thats good enough for me to buy it.plus it makes me feel good!!
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Based on the article it is hard to argue the viscosity retention claims. It is my understanding though, that motorcycle oils have ant-foaming agents preventing foaming at high RPM. The article claims that modern 4/6 cylinder automotive engines are now high revving. Do they rev at 10-11000+ RPM? Also, motorcycle oils have friction modifiers which prevent the clutch slippage of modern petroleum and synthetic oils. Now I concede that this may be marketing hype but, according to Amsoil, petroleum oil will leave burnt oil accumulations on the clutch plates after high RPM launching. So I guess I won't buy synthetic motorcycle oil based on superior viscosity retention, but should I not buy it for the other benefits?
 
Run a good oil, oil filter, and change it regularly. If you hot rod it hard enough you will likely replace the clutch due to an excessive left handed problem (popping clutch) and if you have the full blown disease a down twitching right hand problem (throttle). And if you have this disease really bad these symptoms will lead to several clutch replacements.
 
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