What about the potential for slippage of the wet clutch? Not only from Turbo, but I've read and heard several accounts where full syn causes slippage, regardless if it's a 'busa or another bike. In fact, I have buddy that put just one bottle of syn with the rest of his dino oil and he had to change it out the next day because of the clutch slippage. By the way, he has a older 92 750 Gixxer.
"Motorcycle Oil" SCAM!!
- Thread starter eynlai
- Start date
From everything I have read, If you use a full synthetic Loaded with Moly additives there is a slim chance you might get some slipage. MAXXUM comes to mind, Really high levels of Moly additives...
Otherwise, From talkin to a few different mechanics and reading some stuff here and there, if your clutch slips after adding synthetic oil, it means you r clutch is about fragged and the Synthetic simply made this apparant. Over all though, I think the whole "Clutch" slippage issue has passed into the realm of biker legend...
Rev
Otherwise, From talkin to a few different mechanics and reading some stuff here and there, if your clutch slips after adding synthetic oil, it means you r clutch is about fragged and the Synthetic simply made this apparant. Over all though, I think the whole "Clutch" slippage issue has passed into the realm of biker legend...
Rev
There is no legend. Some bikes with wet clutches simply cannot use full synthetic oil. Nothing wrong with the clutches, it's just the way they are.
eynlai:
You just made me feel better about NOT taking my bike in for the first 600 mile scam service. If you look through your owners manual it's basically an oil/filter change and chain tension adjustment with a few other simple inspections. My dealer wanted $200 for about 45 minutes worth of work.
And no way in hell would a dealer use a POS Fram filter (and neither should you), so they screwed you right there...makes you wonder what else they didn't bother to do. The first oil change is also the most critical and it's mind boggling they would just leave the original filter in there. Doesn't matter if you did it a few hundred miles earlier either. The engine is still breaking in and you PAID for the service.
This weekend I'll be hitting 1,000 miles and I'll be ready for my 3rd oil and filter change.
And quit being a tight ass and buy some REAL filters from your dealer, they're only $12!!!
eynlai:
You just made me feel better about NOT taking my bike in for the first 600 mile scam service. If you look through your owners manual it's basically an oil/filter change and chain tension adjustment with a few other simple inspections. My dealer wanted $200 for about 45 minutes worth of work.
And no way in hell would a dealer use a POS Fram filter (and neither should you), so they screwed you right there...makes you wonder what else they didn't bother to do. The first oil change is also the most critical and it's mind boggling they would just leave the original filter in there. Doesn't matter if you did it a few hundred miles earlier either. The engine is still breaking in and you PAID for the service.
This weekend I'll be hitting 1,000 miles and I'll be ready for my 3rd oil and filter change.
And quit being a tight ass and buy some REAL filters from your dealer, they're only $12!!!
Turbo, they were going to charge me around $200 too, but I opted in for the pre-paid repair and maintanence plan at the dealer when I bought the bike, so it's no out of pocket cost for me for the next 2 years. But that still doesn't justify on them cutting corners. I will definitely bring it back for a 2nd service, but I'm going to mark the filter this time before bringing it in just so I can catch them. I don't think they even clean or lubed the chain. I have to figure a way to catch them on that.
I smell a complaint to the BBB coming at least, I may even take it to small claims if it becomes too obvious. It's only $45 in L.A. county to file a small claims. I imagine even less in Ventura county where the dealer is at.
On the subject of the oil filter. I've read extensively that Mobil 1 is actually the best filter to use due to its high effiency in the micron test and bypass valve release. The second I learned was Purolator, and surprisingly, 3rd was K&N. But what really shocked me wasn't that the Suzuki OEM filter didn't even make the top 3, but Fram was considered at the bottom of the barrel due to its cheap contruction made of glue and cardboard.
Seeing how Mobil 1 cost $13 for just cars, it's a easy choice to go with a close #2 Purolator at half its cost for motorcycles.
I'll see if I can find the link to the oil filter article / website and post it.
And back on the subject of oil. Rev, that's not a brand I'm familiar with, not sure it's easy to find and I have doubts that the cost will justify its supposed differential quality. But I'm still interested in know where I can find it just to price it.
I smell a complaint to the BBB coming at least, I may even take it to small claims if it becomes too obvious. It's only $45 in L.A. county to file a small claims. I imagine even less in Ventura county where the dealer is at.
On the subject of the oil filter. I've read extensively that Mobil 1 is actually the best filter to use due to its high effiency in the micron test and bypass valve release. The second I learned was Purolator, and surprisingly, 3rd was K&N. But what really shocked me wasn't that the Suzuki OEM filter didn't even make the top 3, but Fram was considered at the bottom of the barrel due to its cheap contruction made of glue and cardboard.
Seeing how Mobil 1 cost $13 for just cars, it's a easy choice to go with a close #2 Purolator at half its cost for motorcycles.
I'll see if I can find the link to the oil filter article / website and post it.
And back on the subject of oil. Rev, that's not a brand I'm familiar with, not sure it's easy to find and I have doubts that the cost will justify its supposed differential quality. But I'm still interested in know where I can find it just to price it.
Morning, do you mean Silkolene or Maxxum/Maxima/Maxxim or whatever the hell it's called? You can find both online, well Silkolene for sure anyway. As for the cost differential I think we have covered this, but really just find an oil that uses 100% Ester Synthetics, be it car or Motorcycle oil. I imagine you will be able to find one that is less than $12 a litre that should provide the results I have been blathering on about.
Oh you mentioned an oil filter... I have just the one.
Turbo-Torch, the 600 mile service is a money maker for the dealer certainly. However getting that first service done and recorded at the dealership can go a long ways should you encounter problems down the road. If the dealer doesn't do it, just make certain you keep your reciepts and a good log. You sound pretty meticulous anyway so I'm prolly not telling you any damn thing here.
Hehe...not only do I have receipts for the oil and filters I've got pictures of the bike before, during and after the oil change including clear close ups of the odometer
Interesting debate. This debate has gone on as long as I can remember and I don't think it will ever cease. Different riders, different styles, different scientist, but there are always debates and always will be.
I've used Dino MC oil in every bike I've owned and never had a problem. I to read the Sports Rider MC/Car oil article. The one thing I noticed was that the Castor Oil GTX Auto Syn Blend did better in the test than any MC Dino Oil. So on my last Oil change about 700 miles ago I put in Castor GTX Oil. And I have to admit the first thing I noticed was that the engine seemed to idle smoother/quieter... Since I was real skeptical I was don't think it was a psychological desire being fulfulled. Now after 700 Miles I bought Amsoil full syn just to try it out. I'll try to give some updates of my personal thought over the next month or so. More than likely I'll be changing to the Amsoil by the end or middle of May. One thing I want to note is that I change my oil and filer every 3000 miles. The other thing I'll note is I talked to the mechanics at the Suzuki dealer, which are certified mechanics, and they stated that if you change your oil every 3000 miles any MC oil would work fine.
As for car oils vs I'm not sure but I think a good oil and regular oil changes would keep most bikes up and running longer than most riders own their bike.
As for Castor Oil ... I run it in my car and have 243,000 miles on it and it never been in the shop for an engine problem and runs just as smooth today as it did when i bought it.
Bottom line.... Try different oils and see what works best for you, try different tires and see which ones work best for you. try different wind screens, bar risers, etc.
Heck I went through Corbin, Gel, and the stock before I settled in on a Tobin!
I've used Dino MC oil in every bike I've owned and never had a problem. I to read the Sports Rider MC/Car oil article. The one thing I noticed was that the Castor Oil GTX Auto Syn Blend did better in the test than any MC Dino Oil. So on my last Oil change about 700 miles ago I put in Castor GTX Oil. And I have to admit the first thing I noticed was that the engine seemed to idle smoother/quieter... Since I was real skeptical I was don't think it was a psychological desire being fulfulled. Now after 700 Miles I bought Amsoil full syn just to try it out. I'll try to give some updates of my personal thought over the next month or so. More than likely I'll be changing to the Amsoil by the end or middle of May. One thing I want to note is that I change my oil and filer every 3000 miles. The other thing I'll note is I talked to the mechanics at the Suzuki dealer, which are certified mechanics, and they stated that if you change your oil every 3000 miles any MC oil would work fine.
As for car oils vs I'm not sure but I think a good oil and regular oil changes would keep most bikes up and running longer than most riders own their bike.
As for Castor Oil ... I run it in my car and have 243,000 miles on it and it never been in the shop for an engine problem and runs just as smooth today as it did when i bought it.
Bottom line.... Try different oils and see what works best for you, try different tires and see which ones work best for you. try different wind screens, bar risers, etc.
Heck I went through Corbin, Gel, and the stock before I settled in on a Tobin!
Triumph sells a Mobile Synthetic for thier bikes and recomends changing from the "running in oil" to the Syn at 700 miles. I've been running Belray Syn in both of my Triumphs since I did the services at 700 miles. I was just a hair away from putting syn in My Busa at 600 but decided to wait unti about 2k. Rev is right about the effects of full syn on the gearboxs at change time the shifting change has been night and day in favor of the syn.
Okay. I thought I give an update: I didn't do the blind test, but I did change the oil myself using a Purolator filter, and Castrol's Actevo's 4 stroke 10-40W synthetic base for motorcycles. I can't honestly say that I noticed that there is a big or even moderate difference. I'm attributing the slight to the affect on my knowledge I used what I've used.
By the way, I found the Actevo on sale at CycleGear for $3 / bottle with mail-in rebate.
I'm I off here? Tell me.
By the way, I found the Actevo on sale at CycleGear for $3 / bottle with mail-in rebate.
I'm I off here? Tell me.
I dunno if your off... But the difference in tranny when I went to Silkolene full Synthetic was definite and substantial. It's possible that the difference is between a full Ester base and some of the other cheaper bases. According to what I have read here and there though, The Esters are the Cats ass and are also seriously expensive. So from a purly financial POV the actual ROI may not be there. But I like how it feels and I love the effect it's had on my motor and Tranny.
My point is that the tranny effect I am speaking of isn't really a "perceptual" thing it's obvious and substantial. So if you didn't notice an obvious improvement in tranny feel at least then you got the wrong oil in there Bro...
My point is that the tranny effect I am speaking of isn't really a "perceptual" thing it's obvious and substantial. So if you didn't notice an obvious improvement in tranny feel at least then you got the wrong oil in there Bro...
Buy 4 quarts, it won't take that much.
Full synthetics with low friction modifiers. Stick with Motorcycle rated oils unless you take the time to really read through some of these threads. Do a search on Synthetic Oil and you'll have hours of reading to digest. Take the bulk of the opinions and work from there. There is a lot of knowledge on the board but some times you have to weed through to get to it.
I run Mobil 1 Racing 4t (was called MX4T) and I'm happy with it.
That's with no filter change. If you change the filter ( and you should ) you will need 3700ml or so. Also, you should change the oil with the engine hot so more old oil drains out. Then, you'll need just under four quarts.
Put the bike on a rear stand and keep an eye on the fill window as you fill it. Be aware that after you stop pouring, it will continue to rise a little.
Start up the bike and allow the filter to fill and the system to pressurize until the oil light goes off. Turn off the bike and let it sit for a couple minutes. Check the fill window again and top it off if necessary. You'll probably find that you've used just barely shy of four quarts. Don't overfill.
I don't use synthetic. I just buy the gallon size oil bottles of Quaker State or whatever they have on sale and change every 3,000 miles.
No sense in making it cost overly much!
--Wag--
xxx_busa
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1218368[/ATTACH]? to me a pair of speakers.Cables can make a huge difference in your sound system. You should budget at least 10% or more of your system money to accomodate them. MC is a great brand and so are some others. I have listened to cable that is over $1000 per foot, now that is extreme, but it does make a difference. Sorry to get off of topic but you asked. Thanks for the ingo though!
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Nice speaker, what`s inside?
I wouldn`t bet any amount on lamp wire vs. quality cable. $2.50/ft vs. $1000.00/Ft is a different story.
No one can tell the difference I can bet on that.
No one can tell the difference I can bet on that.
Yeah... someone, who probably dead by now, wanted info on dyno vs. synth, MC vs, car oil, cheap speaker cable vs $1000.00/ft. speaker cable..
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