My Busa Overhaul
- Thread starter MLSDUKE1
- Start date
I only just realised that you haven't bought the 1507 kit yet.....good in my opinion!!
I can assure you that if you went with a 1397 like I did and get it built properly you will have years of pleasure from it.
Plenty of power, easily tuned and you will waste any stock busa that rides your way.....
I guess a 1441 isn't really that much bigger but I would like to know how it performs (temp wise in traffic) as a daily ride as my busa with the 1397 required twin cooling fans to keep it under control temperature wise. It is a hot environment over here in Australia though!
You certainly wouldn't want to be pulling your busa engine apart even on a yearly basis if its only going to be a daily ride with the occasional 1/4 mile appearance so its good to see you are really thinking hard about which way to go!
Everything about this build has been thought out and planned. Even if some of the plans change, I'm making sure they are in my best interest. Like the frame paint for example. At first it was just going to be flat black, but now its 2004 GM charcoal color.
Also, I'm changing the fan temp sensor to a lower temp on as well as I MIGHT do a double fan mod. That coupled with egine ice should keep her nice and frosty!
More to come!
Also, I'm changing the fan temp sensor to a lower temp on as well as I MIGHT do a double fan mod. That coupled with egine ice should keep her nice and frosty!
More to come!
It would certainly be great to hear from other members who have a 1441 or a 1507 engined busa just to find out how their engine temperatures run.
Particularly on a warm to hot day and in reasonably heavy traffic.
I know with my 1397 it needed additional cooling....the worked busa motors tend to be hot heads (in very slow or stopped traffic conditions) so it will pay to look into effective ways of keeping it cooler.
Once up to a reasonable cruising speed I have never had any heating problems at all. The busa simply likes to be moving and loves a lot of air flow.
Also I haven't had to run engine ice etc just a twin fan setup!
Particularly on a warm to hot day and in reasonably heavy traffic.
I know with my 1397 it needed additional cooling....the worked busa motors tend to be hot heads (in very slow or stopped traffic conditions) so it will pay to look into effective ways of keeping it cooler.
Once up to a reasonable cruising speed I have never had any heating problems at all. The busa simply likes to be moving and loves a lot of air flow.
Also I haven't had to run engine ice etc just a twin fan setup!
The only difference between your 1397 and a 1441 is an extra 2mm of stroke on the crank. The pistons would be the same and temps more than likely would stay the same IMO
Ludicrous Speed
Registered
On a gen 1, the easiest way to install N20 (IMO) is to remove the Vac diaphragm on the bottom, use an aluminum piece to take it's place and screw the nozzle in right there. Fog the box with a .040 jet will get you around 50 hp and will live forever with a good tune.
Hmmmmmm..... I have looked around and cannot find it anymore. It used to be called a RiceYa plate, named after the guy who designed it. I will keep looking and see if I find any
Hmmmmmm..... I have looked around and cannot find it anymore. It used to be called a RiceYa plate, named after the guy who designed it. I will keep looking and see if I find any
Ludicrous Speed
Registered
View attachment 1593336
Not sure if Greg still has them, but here is the link on his site
Nitrous Oxide Products
This worked much better for me than one in each ram air tube
Not sure if Greg still has them, but here is the link on his site
Nitrous Oxide Products
This worked much better for me than one in each ram air tube
Alright, so I've mentioned before that the clutch switch behind the clutch lever kept breaking. I, in turn, connected the two wires via a fuse and taped it up giving me clutchless starts and an extra $30 a pop I didn't have to spend. I still ensure my clutch is in if the green light is not on BUT, I don't care for that switch. Not even remotely. I've been running like that for about 2 yrs so I'm used to it.
Where do the two wires connect to the ECU so I can put a jumper there and remove the unsightly fuse?
Where do the two wires connect to the ECU so I can put a jumper there and remove the unsightly fuse?
Ludicrous Speed
Registered
I am not sure about the gen 1, but the wires being jumped may affect performance. I have NEVER had a clutch switch breaking. Maybe they were adjusted wrong?
Lycan6
Registered
Not true. It does have an affect on the bike. It causes it to have a false rev limit and it reduces your mpg. It also keeps your bike in a neutral map because it thinks its in neutral.
Are we talking about the same switch? I'm talking about the microswitch that is actuated by the clutch lever. Its been out for a LONG time on my bike and I haven't noticed any kid of performance drop. All it seems to do is let the system know that the clutch is being held in, not that its in neutral.
Ludicrous Speed
Registered
Yes, the same one.
I know on the gen 2 it DEFINITELY affects the way the bike runs.
I was thinking that it would put the bike in the incorrect map for the Gen1 as well, but was not sure.
BTW, my bike made 217 hp on the dyno with the N20 setup above. Stock engine, filter, small box mod, and Brocks Gen3 streetsmart pipe
I know on the gen 2 it DEFINITELY affects the way the bike runs.
I was thinking that it would put the bike in the incorrect map for the Gen1 as well, but was not sure.
BTW, my bike made 217 hp on the dyno with the N20 setup above. Stock engine, filter, small box mod, and Brocks Gen3 streetsmart pipe
You can buy them at any auto parts place. License plate camera. Comes with a 5 or 6 inch LCD screen. $120.00
Lycan6
Registered
Yep. Same switch. You will want to undo the by pass when you dyno it. It will create a false rev limit. My ecu is flashed and has the rev limit increased to 11.5k and it kept hitting the limiter at about 10k I think. I have to find the dyno.
Is there a way, without putting yet ANOTHER switch on, to bypass it? Just seems to me like if that were the case though, that everytime you pulled in the clutch, it would think it was in neutral. Which, thinking about it, might be the case.
I have put the switch in perfectly each time, measure its travel against the stock one and I even took a feeler gauge to the stock one before I pulled it off so I know it was set right.
This, though, is pretty much the least of my concerns UNLESS you know a way I can make a bypass for it. Then I could get that done tonight and the trunk mod done tomorrow.
I have put the switch in perfectly each time, measure its travel against the stock one and I even took a feeler gauge to the stock one before I pulled it off so I know it was set right.
This, though, is pretty much the least of my concerns UNLESS you know a way I can make a bypass for it. Then I could get that done tonight and the trunk mod done tomorrow.
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