My Dream Turbo Hayabusa by Boosted Cycle Performance.

yes, dopy put up the link to my journey to the turbo and even the busa world. I don't want to list anything here as to not thread jack you. Really looking forward to your updates and see the end result.

:)
@s3ns4i I don't mind man, I'm not sensitive like many to jack up their threads. Its all good, its a comradery we share. I read your thread, I feel for you man. That's a lot of money invested.
 
More updates on the bike build.

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@Mathewrussell52 Is your motorcycle running E85 as well? I don't think I completely understand your comment there, please elaborate.
Yes I’m on E85. I’m stock Ecu I didn’t ask a lot of questions but the guy did not like tuning E85 because of consistency at the pump/ racing, it was early and I believe he forgot I was coming. And it was 5 hours one way. Also he HATED ecu editor I had to bring my laptop because he would not use on his. He told me it was a corrupt program and it wouldn’t infect maps and to delete any maps I had saved.

But I am happy with the results I was where I expected 167hp on 7lbs.
 
Yes I’m on E85. I’m stock Ecu I didn’t ask a lot of questions but the guy did not like tuning E85 because of consistency at the pump/ racing, it was early and I believe he forgot I was coming. And it was 5 hours one way. Also he HATED ecu editor I had to bring my laptop because he would not use on his. He told me it was a corrupt program and it wouldn’t infect maps and to delete any maps I had saved.

But I am happy with the results I was where I expected 167hp on 7lbs.
@Mathewrussell52 I hear you man, sounds like you need to change your tuner lol jk. I think you mean 267whp?
 
Hi. Tell us about the sensors what will you use them to monitor?
@michael parris heuberger I'll be the first one to admit I'm no expert with all that goes. So I'll paraphrase Rob, what I could gather from what he said is It's a remote mount pressure sensor block. Instead of mounting pressure sensors directly to the engine you just run lines to it. Then it's just one plug to wire. Engine vibration kills pressure sensors pretty quick. That block isolates the sensors and also gives better readings as vibration messes with the readings.
 
Lol ya but in the end the guy was cool and happy . Yes 267
@Mathewrussell52 With my experience I've learned that one should find a tuner/builder that not only has good reputation, will be reasonable and shares the common interests as well, on what your goals are. Lot of builders are very good at something like say C16 and only because they're not well versed with E85 they'll tell you all sort of things that can go wrong with it to stray you from what you're looking for. So just find someone who'd be well versed in what you want and they'll tell you things about it that even you didn't know. Like I am with Rob. E85 is a proven platform, it makes sense especially on street bikes when you've pump e85 around. Not that C16 doesn't have it's place in drag racing, lsr and other races. But what I hated with that map on my bike was filling it up at home and then going for some blasts on street and I went through it very quick and then back to lower 93 pump gas map. Offcourse with ultra I'll be able to have higher whp but I think standalone and e85 is good to have.
 
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So running bigger turbo and more fuel with bigger injectors and e85 there is more fuel that goes through combustion chamber and many a times we tend to forget the electrical supply powering the motor, which would be the weak link. At first there was talk about doing things like Energycoil or LS1 coil for more power, but after Robert doing research he found out IGBT coil set which has to be custom wired, it is basically ls1 coils but on steroids. The more powerful the ignition coils, means being able to run more plug gap. More plug gap, plus hotter spark means more complete burn, which means more HP.
 
So running bigger turbo and more fuel with bigger injectors and e85 there is more fuel that goes through combustion chamber and many a times we tend to forget the electrical supply powering the motor, which would be the weak link. At first there was talk about doing things like Energycoil or LS1 coil for more power, but after Robert doing research he found out IGBT coil set which has to be custom wired, it is basically ls1 coils but on steroids. The more powerful the ignition coils, means being able to run more plug gap. More plug gap, plus hotter spark means more complete burn, which means more HP.
Hi. On my build someone who knows what they are doing told me to run stock coils. They also told me to run the MAXX ECU Pro. To prove what they know they ran a 6.309 ET.
 
Hi. On my build someone who knows what they are doing told me to run stock coils. They also told me to run the MAXX ECU Pro. To prove what they know they ran a 6.309 ET.
@michael parris heuberger As opposed to @Boosted Cycle Perf not knowing? I think you mean Maxxecu Race, You don't need a maxxecu race for street setup for what I am looking for, a street turbo busa which is gonna be riden daily and capable of e85. That is a good et but means nothing to me as I won't be taking this to a drag strip and beating on the internals , plus I only need 4 injectors not 8. All you get from pro you can get with sport, things like traction control, launch control, wheelie control , boost control and much more. If you're looking for a race setup then race maxxecu is understandable with more sensors , inputs, outputs, more O2 sensors but if you're not going to use all that is provided, you're paying extra for nothing. I am more than satisfied with this setup. And just like I mentioned earlier in other post, you listen to your builder and have faith in their capabilities which time and time again Robert has proven here. He gave me an option to keep stock coils or go with the IGBT coils, so I made the choice for hotter coils, as I am touching on every aspect of this motorcycle be it electronics, braking, lights, etc. You should listen to your builder and if suits your needs go for it. Who is the builder that you're using for your setup?
 
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Hi. On my build someone who knows what they are doing told me to run stock coils. They also told me to run the MAXX ECU Pro. To prove what they know they ran a 6.309 ET.
Well I may not have gone faster to prove I know more I can tell you this from my experience. I’ve tested the aftermarket drop in stick coils, and didn’t see any benefit from. So in terms of drop in inductive stick coils, I’d fully agree with the faster guy, stock coils are the way to go.

Reminder, lots of guys that have been in this game for years tend to not try new technology and stick to what they know and are comfortable with.

Back in the day, NLR used to make something called an ignition SIM. It wired in to the stock coils and somehow jumped the output of the factory stick coils substantially. I only had the chance to install and tune one bike with a sim, but here’s what I found. The bike started faster, and idled rock solid. I noticed better throttle response as well. But the biggest difference was in boost the bike ran close to .3-.5 afr richer because the hotter spark was burning the fuel more completely. I also found that the bike made more power with less ignition timing. Makes sense as if the spark is more powerful, you can start the combustion even later because the fuel will light off more easily. Stock oils put out between 15-25,000 volts. Aftermarket drop in coils are rated for 27,000 volts, and 70 mA. Smart coils, which is what I’m putting on this bike are rated at 40,000 volts, and 108 mA.

LS1 (heat sinked truck coils actually) are a popular upgrade on many different engine platforms in the automotive world. I even upgraded to LS coils on my 240sx which run a similar style stick coil in stock form as the Hayabusa. I had noticed the same increase in performance as I saw with the customers bike with the SIM I mentioned earlier. I was also able to run a larger plug gap to further increase gains. I’m also upgrading to smart coils on my big single turbo LS mustang as I’ll be running it on Methanol. The LS coils start to fall off over 1000HP on methanol.
 
So, with this build the whole idea for me was to have innovative technology and not going too overboard as well. I also wanted to address areas of concern while its being built, things like bigger and yet more refined turbo without going too big like Gt35 and up, so went with Gen 2 GTX3076R which is capable of 750hp with good powerband and spool time, more than enough for my needs. Went with stronger and more load capable wiring throughout the vehicle, bigger injectors with flexfuel capabilities, ultra plenum for running cooler intake Temps, standalone ecu to not only have more capabilities but also to clean up the electronic bay area, vehicle already had a built motor with corrillo H beam rods, wossner pistons and 1/2 inch studs to support well over 600hp. The transmission was also addressed with race cut gears by Robinson industries. It has trac dynamics swingarm with built in air tank. Brembo brakes all throughout with Brembo M/C. I will have the whole build list once it is built.
So, this brought me to the wheels being addressed. As we all know there are amplitudes of wheels available in the market from carbon fiber to others. Although beautiful wheels, with carbon fiber i will not be able to treat this vehicle the way i want to, a daily driven high horsepower turbo machine, and I'll have watch for every little imperctions as they occur, will also be going through tires quite often and with every tire change I'd run the risk of ruining the wheels. So no go for carbon fiber wheels for me. There is also beautiful wheels like core moto wheels, which I must say are gorgeous. But again I believe I'll stick with stock wheels wheels for now. As they're very strong built wheels by suzuki, but maybe down the road I'll opt for something else. With that being said, I will change the wheel bearings to a world wide ceramic bearings for a much free flowing wheels and thus relating to smoother power delivery to the pavement and maybe oven higher top end.
 
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Well I may not have gone faster to prove I know more I can tell you this from my experience. I’ve tested the aftermarket drop in stick coils, and didn’t see any benefit from. So in terms of drop in inductive stick coils, I’d fully agree with the faster guy, stock coils are the way to go.

Reminder, lots of guys that have been in this game for years tend to not try new technology and stick to what they know and are comfortable with.

Back in the day, NLR used to make something called an ignition SIM. It wired in to the stock coils and somehow jumped the output of the factory stick coils substantially. I only had the chance to install and tune one bike with a sim, but here’s what I found. The bike started faster, and idled rock solid. I noticed better throttle response as well. But the biggest difference was in boost the bike ran close to .3-.5 afr richer because the hotter spark was burning the fuel more completely. I also found that the bike made more power with less ignition timing. Makes sense as if the spark is more powerful, you can start the combustion even later because the fuel will light off more easily. Stock oils put out between 15-25,000 volts. Aftermarket drop in coils are rated for 27,000 volts, and 70 mA. Smart coils, which is what I’m putting on this bike are rated at 40,000 volts, and 108 mA.

LS1 (heat sinked truck coils actually) are a popular upgrade on many different engine platforms in the automotive world. I even upgraded to LS coils on my 240sx which run a similar style stick coil in stock form as the Hayabusa. I had noticed the same increase in performance as I saw with the customers bike with the SIM I mentioned earlier. I was also able to run a larger plug gap to further increase gains. I’m also upgrading to smart coils on my big single turbo LS mustang as I’ll be running it on Methanol. The LS coils start to fall off over 1000HP on methanol.
Hi. I would like to know more about them, like how much $. I have to pick what MAXX ECU to use. I was thinking the RACE or the PRO? I wish I was still living in Texas. I lived In El Paso and worked out of there. I will talk to Andy at DME too.
 
Another thing I thought of benefit of having smart coil with running e85, as we know e85 can be at times hard to fire up and with hotter coils that should essentially quite reduce, maybe even eliminate that issue.
 
So, with this build the whole idea for me was to have innovative technology and not going too overboard as well. I also wanted to address areas of concern while its being built, things like bigger and yet more refined turbo without going too big like Gt35 and up, so went with Gen 2 GTX3076R which is capable of 750hp with good powerband and spool time, more than enough for my needs. Went with stronger and more load capable wiring throughout the vehicle, bigger injectors with flexfuel capabilities, ultra plenum for running cooler intake Temps, standalone ecu to not only have more capabilities but also to clean up the electronic bay area, vehicle already had a built motor with corrillo H beam rods, wossner pistons and 1/2 inch studs to support well over 600hp. The transmission was also addressed with race cut gears by Robinson industries. It has trac dynamics swingarm with built in air tank. Brembo brakes all throughout with Brembo M/C. I will have the whole build list once it is built.
So, this brought me to the wheels being addressed. As we all know there are amplitudes of wheels available in the market from carbon fiber to others. Although beautiful wheels, with carbon fiber i will not be able to treat this vehicle the way i want to, a daily driven high horsepower turbo machine, and I'll have watch for every little imperctions as they occur, will also be going through tires quite often and with every tire change I'd run the risk of ruining the wheels. So no go for carbon fiber wheels for me. There is also beautiful wheels like core moto wheels, which I must say are gorgeous. But again I believe I'll stick with stock wheels wheels for now. As they're very strong built wheels by suzuki, but maybe down the road I'll opt for something else. With that being said, I will change the wheel bearings to a world wide ceramic bearings for a much free flowing wheels and thus relating to smoother power delivery to the pavement and maybe oven higher top end.
Those core moto wheels are the truth!


Hi. I would like to know more about them, like how much $. I have to pick what MAXX ECU to use. I was thinking the RACE or the PRO? I wish I was still living in Texas. I lived In El Paso and worked out of there. I will talk to Andy at DME too.

You’re asking me? I haven’t gone 6.30s yet... I’m just messing with you.

It really depends on how much data you want to acquire, and what other items/devices you want to run aside from usual engine sensors, injectors, ignition etc. Every level of maxx Ecu comes with all the basics preset. Tps, air temp, coolant temp, crank and cam trigger inputs. Every ecu model you move up, the only thing that changes is the amount of extra inputs and outputs you have at your disposal.

However this being the first maxx Ecu I’ve wired, and have a maxx race for a build I’m mapping out on paper, I’ve gotten savvy to their marketing, and it’s rather annoying. How they set up their ecus, some of those extra inputs and outputs that you’re paying extra money for aren’t reconfigure-able. For example on this sport ecu, it has pre configured outputs to run a drive by wire throttle body. That’s great if you have one. But if you don’t, you can’t change that output to pulse width output to drive boost control solenoids for example. On the race ecu I’m mapping out, it has 8 EGT inputs. I’ll only be using 4. The other 4 pins are just along for the ride.

I started looking over the model comparisons any they’re really good with their packaging. You can find the right ecu for your needs but be short one or two certain inputs or outputs. I’d you’re on a tight budget, you’ll have to decided what you can live without, or for just a little bit more you can step up to the next ecu and get everything you want. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not knocking them, it’s a smart way to make money off us HP junkies. We need our fixes, lol.

I guess I’m just spoiled from running my Holley Dominator. It has 30 inputs, and 30 outputs, and you can configure each pin to do anything you need.

Here’s the link to the maxx Ecu comparison chart.


IMO, the best option for a turbo busa with all the race bells and whistles the race ecu is the best option. It will run up to 8 injectors if you want to, and has 4 extra VR inputs along with a few extra in/outs. The only thing the pro can do over the race is run 12 ignition coils.
 
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