Ram Jam weigh in!

c10 said:
I'm a little disappointed of 515 seen in video.
All straps were 8 pounds to support the ordeal. Rear hump is 1 lb 10 oz .

True wet weight is. 508 Lb 10 Oz

Figure in FAT seat is 3 lb heavier than stock were still not sub 500 :(

Full length video in a few hours guys .


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Click to expand...

I recall the thread where you listed all the lightened parts along with the weight reductions you had put on RJ..I can't find it at the moment but it was a good one.
 
Found it...

www.hayabusa.org

75 pound Hayabusa weight reduction | Gen 2 Busa Information

Bad weather day here , and little to do in garage except compile all weight savings over the last 3.5 years . Video shows ease of bags / racks removal plus their weight . If your not into watching boring YouTube here it is 75 pounds saved so far . Racks , and bags all together weight 29 pounds...
www.hayabusa.org www.hayabusa.org
 
Hi all.

Understand this is a super old thread but wanted to weigh (haha) in here

I wish I was doing this stuff back in the golden years when you folk were- I have taken near 24kg off my 2009 and have (nearly) everything itemized and recorded in a spread sheet. There are some items (like rearsets and exhaust hangers) that can save you a deceptively huge amount of weight.

Even the three rubber and steel isolator bushes on each rearset add up to a significant amount and can be removed for free (from memory i think the bolt head is large enough to seat on the aluminium rearset casting once the bush is removed)

Also- C10's reported weights seem accurate but many online are NOT- so people should weigh components themselves rather than trusting other sources.

Edit, OK dammit im going to start my own thread. I'm too passionate about weight loss on these bikes :-D
 
Last edited:
flyingbrick said:
Hi all.

Understand this is a super old thread but wanted to weigh (haha) in here

I wish I was doing this stuff back in the golden years when you folk were- I have taken near 24kg off my 2009 and have (nearly) everything itemized and recorded in a spread sheet. There are some items (like rearsets and exhaust hangers) that can save you a deceptively huge amount of weight.

Even the three rubber and steel isolator bushes



on each rearset add up to a significant amount and can be removed for free (from memory i think the bolt head is large enough to seat on the aluminium rearset casting once the bush is removed)

Also- C10's reported weights seem accurate but many online are NOT- so people should weigh components themselves rather than trusting other sources.

Edit, OK dammit im going to start my own thread. I'm too passionate about weight loss on these bikes :-D
Click to expand...
230KG full tank fully wet ... just sold her a week ago .
20220208_111406.jpg
 
I also spent a lot of money trying to lose some Busa fat. Ti bolts, GP4 calipers, Ohlins suspension, lighter rear sets, etc. Basically, the most impact comes from wheels. I went with the Cormoto aluminum and they made a huge difference. So much so I was sort of wishing I had gone Carbom fiber but I still don't trust them on such a heavy, powerful bike. I was super excited when my busa weighed in at 501 lbs with fuel. I later found out that was a very tilted scale and the real weight is 535-555.

That's a lot of weight still, but my BWM weighs 550, and it feels lighter and much more nimble than the Busa. That's when I realized its not the ultimate weight as much as where the weight is. The further the weight is away from the CG of the bike the more it restricts direction changes. But more than that, the gyroscopic effect of the spinning crankshaft impacts the bike's roll rate. That inline crank with big 1250cc pistons is very stable as the rpm's rise. The BMW's crank is axial on the bike (front to back vs side to side). That means it loves to roll.

So, the bottom line on weight is pretty simple: The cheapest and most impactful way to improve your Busa's performance is to lose some Busa rider weight. You are the heaviest thing on the bike and the farthest away from the CG of the bike.

BTW: The Busa's somewhat slow handling is as much due to its geometry as its weight. It is designed to be stable for a novice at 180 mph. Consequently, making the beast do what you want can only be done with counter steering (not titanium). Ride her correctly and she is very capable.
 
fallenarch said:
I also spent a lot of money trying to lose some Busa fat. Ti bolts, GP4 calipers, Ohlins suspension, lighter rear sets, etc. Basically, the most impact comes from wheels. I went with the Cormoto aluminum and they made a huge difference. So much so I was sort of wishing I had gone Carbom fiber but I still don't trust them on such a heavy, powerful bike. I was super excited when my busa weighed in at 501 lbs with fuel. I later found out that was a very tilted scale and the real weight is 535-555.

That's a lot of weight still, but my BWM weighs 550, and it feels lighter and much more nimble than the Busa. That's when I realized its not the ultimate weight as much as where the weight is. The further the weight is away from the CG of the bike the more it restricts direction changes. But more than that, the gyroscopic effect of the spinning crankshaft impacts the bike's roll rate. That inline crank with big 1250cc pistons is very stable as the rpm's rise. The BMW's crank is axial on the bike (front to back vs side to side). That means it loves to roll.

So, the bottom line on weight is pretty simple: The cheapest and most impactful way to improve your Busa's performance is to lose some Busa rider weight. You are the heaviest thing on the bike and the farthest away from the CG of the bike.

BTW: The Busa's somewhat slow handling is as much due to its geometry as its weight. It is designed to be stable for a novice at 180 mph. Consequently, making the beast do what you want can only be done with counter steering (not titanium). Ride her correctly and she is very capable.
Click to expand...

Absolutely agree with the last paragraph there, but the geometry fact doesn't change the positive impact that weight loss can have (as per your first paragraph)

Also, larger profile rear tyre (55 rather than 50) and lowering the front a little (I went down 7mm) does GREAT things.

This is of course presuming you have a standard geometry bike and haven't made it terrible with 360 rear wheel , 1 metre longer swingarm etc

Edit: What is your swingarm from?
 
fallenarch said:
The cheapest and most impactful way to improve your Busa's performance is to lose some Busa rider weight.
Click to expand...
As I look down at my growing gut these last couple of years all I can think is how true these words are....if my 250 2-stroke could talk it would probably yell at me.

All that said I'm going to try and cut some pounds off my Busa this fall/winter so hearing what works and what didn't work helps me plan.
 
flyingbrick said:
Absolutely agree with the last paragraph there, but the geometry fact doesn't change the positive impact that weight loss can have (as per your first paragraph)

Also, larger profile rear tyre (55 rather than 50) and lowering the front a little (I went down 7mm) does GREAT things.

This is of course presuming you have a standard geometry bike and haven't made it terrible with 360 rear wheel , 1 metre longer swingarm etc

Edit: What is your swingarm from?
Click to expand...
I have a stock swingarm. You may be thinking of @ROADTOAD1340 who has a custom-fabricated aluminum swingarm that is crazy cool. I raised the rear 1", which I assume works like lowering the front. I actually prefer the 50 as things get a little twitchy for backroading with the 55 IMHO. Obviously, less weight is better. But you can spend a boatload of money making the bike lighter for a relatively small performance gain. If you are drag racing, any weight loss will help. If you are road racing, better brakes (more progressive) better suspension (including unsprung weight reduction), and less rotational mass are the ticket. You need to lose 100 lbs off the Busa to turn with a 1K sport bike IMO. Not sure how you can do that safely.
 
flyingbrick said:
argh, correct that was roadtoads pic!!!!
Click to expand...
That swingarm is a Japanese Striker G Craft Gen 2 Busa arm standard length with ability to go 40mm over .

STRIKER : G-STRIKER Swingarm Power Dimension Type-S (with Stabilizer) [SS-SAPD90SLï¼HAï¼024]

Product Description: STRIKER G-STRIKER Swingarm Power Dimension Type-S (with Stabilizer) [SS-SAPD90SLï¼HAï¼024] : Fits:SUZUKI GSX1300R HAYABUSA 08-20 (Type 2) : SUZUKI HAYABUSA 22- 8BL-... - Webike
japan.webike.net
 
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