RCS Clutch m/c hydraulic switch - I stand corrected.

[ottafish]

To All,
I owe an apology and stand corrected. I have had a hydraulic switch in my Brembo clutch m/c for a while and thought it was doing fine.
After getting a few random F1 codes and dropping the bike to the shop for some diag work, turns out all the codes thrown are in relation to the clutch switch making and breaking during normal riding.
It's only taking about 3mm of travel to actuate the switch and this can apparently happen over rough roads and resting my hand on the clutch lever when coming into a intersection or out giving it the beans and down shifting on corner approach.
So I offer my apologies to those to whom I swore my clutch wasn't doing all the random stuff others were talking about.

Now to put a manual switch on it..

 

[Mythos]

Thanks ottafish. I have an Accosatto front brake MC waiting to be installed and I'm wondering now if I should figure out some kind of analog switch for the brake light? I may go with an Accassato clutch MC too if I like the brake.

 

[GIXERHP]

Thanks ottafish. I have an Accosatto front brake MC waiting to be installed and I'm wondering now if I should figure out some kind of analog switch for the brake light? I may go with an Accassato clutch MC too if I like the brake.

If its a Gen 1 Hydraulic works fine, Gen2 must be a mechanical switch. Such as the one that i posted a long time ago, as well as sold one to Fallenarch

 

[Mythos]

Thanks, @GIXERHP. Mine's a Gen2. I see some aftermarket lever switches on Ebay for about 5-6 bucks. In the time I would rig that up, I think I could MacGiver a small bracket for the OEM switch. Looks like the aftermarket mechanical switches don't come with any bracket. You probaly have to drill and tap a couple holes in the aftermarket MC to fasten a mechanical switch whether the switch is aftermarket or OEM.

 

[GIXERHP]

Thanks, @GIXERHP. Mine's a Gen2. I see some aftermarket lever switches on Ebay for about 5-6 bucks. In the time I would rig that up, I think I could MacGiver a small bracket for the OEM switch. Looks like the aftermarket mechanical switches don't come with any bracket. You probaly have to drill and tap a couple holes in the aftermarket MC to fasten a mechanical switch whether the switch is aftermarket or OEM.

Here is the new one i found as well, Just ordered since my Master cylinders are ordered

 

[GIXERHP]

Here is the new one i found as well, Just ordered since my Master cylinders are ordered

Opps link is missing, KOHKEN (KOHKEN DENKA) : Mechanical Switch Kit for Brembo Radial Master Cylinder [KOK-2002]

 

[Klutch556]

Opps link is missing, KOHKEN (KOHKEN DENKA) : Mechanical Switch Kit for Brembo Radial Master Cylinder [KOK-2002]

Much obliged, just ordered mine

 

[GIXERHP]

Also another thing i just found, if you are ECU flashing, with Woolich Log box, you can shut off the culprit ISC valve

 

[GIXERHP]

Opps link is missing, KOHKEN (KOHKEN DENKA) : Mechanical Switch Kit for Brembo Radial Master Cylinder [KOK-2002]

Just an FYI, instructions are Not in English,
Green is the normally closed
Red is normally opened
Black is the common.

Red and black for the clutch switch

 

[RevengeFish]

Gen 3 Busa - Some clutch switch findings with a Brembo RCS 16 clutch, hope this is helpful.

Lever Ratio set to 18 (adjuster BLACK)- biting point with gloves and 2 finger clutching is just nice, firmer feel which i prefer. Biting point is nearer than the stock MC. Feel is nonetheless way lighter than stock MC.
Lever Ratio set to 16 (adjuster RED) biting point is too close with gloves and 2 finger cluching- bike creeps forward, need to use all 4 fingers to pull clutch entirely in to stop this. almost no feel.


Regarding the clutch switch service manual states:
On = Clutch Lever Grasped
Off = Clutch Lever Released

1) Hydraulic Switch
The "OFF" point seems to be all the way out at the full release of the clutch
Cruise control disengages at the instant once the lever is grapsed, could indicate that switch turns "ON" immediately. (no spike in rpm when lever is grasped.)
The low RPM assist fails to function, as it seems to the ECU that the switch is "OFF" at the biting point. Low RPM assist dosent work as the switch only turns "ON" when lever is fully released all the way, by that time there is no use for the low RPM assist.


2) Mechanical Switch
Cruise Control disengages like the stock switch- it disengages only when almost the full stroke is hit when lever is grapsed and switch is contacted to the "ON" position - the rpm will spike for short moment before it contacts the switch, which is like stock behavior.
Low RPM assist seems to work once the switch turns "OFF" - as per with the stock cluch MC / stock switch.
However as the Low RPM assist works better than the stock MC as the biting point is nearer and the switch deactivation point is closer and as such the assist kicks in earlier, which makes it more in synch with the biting point.
There is the occassional clunk from the gear box similar to stock behavior when holding the clutch at a stop light then releasing it before getting going- signalling that its probably working right.


Conclusion: I have the mechanical switch wired in as i prefer it. (Was using the hydraulic switch for a day or two, but i prefer the behavior of the mechanical switch purely for the Low RPM assist seemingly working better than stock. However the Cruise control cut feels better with the Hydraulic Switch, but i go off from stop lights more than i use cruise control so the choice was obvious...)

note- Have not checked for any fault codes at this point.