Results, oil analysis

jellyrug

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Here is my first Busa oil analysis. Oil viscosity held up OK but not as good as I would have liked to see. Could be time, the oil has been in this bike for more than one year. May try something else next time.

Everything else looks good for a new motor, any idea where the silver comes from? A guess would be the hard coating Suzuki uses in the cylinder, or it could be a ring bedding in material.

Anyone else have results, will be great if we can compare.
 

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Did I read right?

Your oil type was AGIP? (Never heard of this oil)

And I read it as a 5W/40, why such a thin oil?

Just curious to the above questions.

If you do it again in a couple more oil changes, the numbers should be normal.

And the silver? Is this what Suzuki lines the bores of the Hayabusa engine with? Maybe someone will chime in on this. I don't know what they use to line the bores with, but am under the impression if you have the wholes bored out, you have to have them re-lined.
 
I agree with Devil. 10/40 is standard. I am using 10/40 Amsoil which is a total synthetic formulated (supposedly) just for motorcycles.

AGIP is an unkown oil to me. There are a lot of guys happy with Mobil One synthetic oil. I can't remember, but they like red cap or blue cap or something like that.

If you can afford an analysis, you can switch to a different brand and see if you like the results better.

My personal opinion: Synthetic oil sitting unused in your crankcase should not degrade. I've never had any problems with the same oil sitting for 6 months over the winter. If it's new when winter comes, I don't change it when spring comes.
 
Did I read right?

Your oil type was AGIP? (Never heard of this oil)

And I read it as a 5W/40, why such a thin oil?

Just curious to the above questions.

If you do it again in a couple more oil changes, the numbers should be normal.

And the silver? Is this what Suzuki lines the bores of the Hayabusa engine with? Maybe someone will chime in on this. I don't know what they use to line the bores with, but am under the impression if you have the wholes bored out, you have to have them re-lined.

AGIP is part of ENI, the biggest oil company based in Italy, the T4 oil such as this one is the best oils they make. It is a PAO based synthetic. I changed with this again this time, but will try something else next time. It dropped too far out of grade, from around 13.3 to 10.91 for 2,000 miles. Not bad, but could be better. From the analysis the additive package looks great.

5W40 will shear more than a 10w40 (lose viscosity) but it will help save wear during lots of cold starts, especially since my bike does very little miles. Most of your wear is when cold after starting, so the 5 helps a bit. When a bike as been down for a long period, the only thing left is a very thin film, when the engine is started, a thinner oil (5) reaches the critical parts faster, preventing rub through. A lot of US vendors use a group III mineral oil as a base and they call it a full synthetic. In this case with a 5 at the lower end, you know they have to use a very high quality base oil. Mobil will not tell you what base they use, Castrol uses a III for their synthetic oils, Amsoil does not make an official statement as to what base they use.

Would love to see what a 10w40 Amsoil test looks like after about 3,000 miles.
 
May I ask a couple questions ?
Other than curiosity what purpose does an analysis really prove ? (I'm being serious) would it show you damage potentially fixin to happen ?
Also what was the cost and how long did it take ?
Lastly do you plan on doing it on every oil change ?

Thanks
 
May I ask a couple questions ?
Other than curiosity what purpose does an analysis really prove ? (I'm being serious) would it show you damage potentially fixin to happen ?
Also what was the cost and how long did it take ?
Lastly do you plan on doing it on every oil change ?

Thanks

Curiosity is probably the main reason, as a Busa should run 100,000 miles on oil from Walmart for normal road use, but my bike is a hobby and I enjoy every piece of this fantastic machine. I guess if you don't eat a Big Mac every day, with a coke for breakfast, then you don't have to bother about testing the cholesterol levels.:laugh:

To answer your questions:

This could be a very long paper, but let me be short.

Purpose does an analysis prove?
ECM (Equipment condition monitoring, tells you how your oil performs and the condition of your motor) Most of these you can determine by other methods as well, but not all. A change in pattern (monitored through each oil change) of wear metal properties will tell you a problem is developing. Fuel dilution will tell you if you have a leaking injector. If you have a coolant leak, an oil analysis will tell you if it got into the motor. If you installed a faulty oil filter, an oil analysis will pick-up the particles. For me, the most important thing is how the oil is actually holding up. Ideally, you want a viscosity of 10 cSt at normal oil operating temperatures. Your oil operating temperatures will be different on the track, compared to cruising the country, so it depends on what you use the bike for, to choose the ideal oil. How do you know Amsoil put what they said into that expensive bottle? They don't pay fees, so there is no official API stamp on the bottle. Nothing wrong with checking them, to see if it is as good as they say it is.

Would it show you damage potentially on its way?
Yes, provided you trend from one analysis to the next and you have a wear failure developing. Otherwise, you can compare to other equipment averages and take a guess. There are many other failures, being non-wear failures, oil analysis will not detect.

Cost and how long?
$25, plus $1.90 postage got it back one day after they received the sample. They sent me a free kit before I changed my oil. I recon, if you buy expensive oil, it is worth it, otherwise go to Walmart and don't bother.

Plan on doing it for every oil change?
On the Busa, I will probably stop once I tested an oil with a few repeats, that gives me exactly the properties I am looking for.

I have a Husky, which I think won't do much more than 30,000 before the motor needs major work. This one I will continue with, it tore up a good synthetic within 1,000 miles like no other.

On the Harley, probably after I figured out what happens in heavy traffick, when you can start smelling that motor, because it gets so hot. Amazing but my first test was the standard Harley factory oil on a new bike, and 1,300 miles showed the oil still in perfect condition. Their oil gets made by Citgo, which gives me a moral problem to start off with, so it has to go.
 
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Thank you for the explanation .
All good food for thought . I do eat a hamburger every day but drink OJ in the morning and no I don't want to break their meter checking my cholesterol.
From the detailed technical explanation I'm curious what your occupation is ?

Scratch last question as I saw your profile .
 
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What Jellystone says.

Blackstone ocassionally, will send out free test kits for you to return to them for the analysis.

These kits contain instructions, (on how to obtain the sample), and a small plastic jar with a good lid, and more instructions on how to pacckage and ship it to them.
 
Thank you for the explanation .
All good food for thought . I do eat a hamburger every day but drink OJ in the morning and no I don't want to break their meter checking my cholesterol.
From the detailed technical explanation I'm curious what your occupation is ?

Scratch last question as I saw your profile .

Thx

Mercedes Benz put me through college, I worked for them for a few years after graduating, training service techs, writing manuals and testing R&D but that was a long, long time ago.
 
Very interesting.

I would give you a word of caution, away from the analysis. That document has your personal information on there. I would consider blurring it out as you never know who might be lurking on this site.
 
And the silver? Is this what Suzuki lines the bores of the Hayabusa engine with? Maybe someone will chime in on this. I don't know what they use to line the bores with, but am under the impression if you have the wholes bored out, you have to have them re-lined.

I may be mistaken, but I'm thinking the cylinders are lined with Nickel.

Would love to see what a 10w40 Amsoil test looks like after about 3,000 miles.

I would be interested in seeing this also, I run Amsoil in my trucks and would love to see a comparison between other oils~!~
 
Very interesting.

I would give you a word of caution, away from the analysis. That document has your personal information on there. I would consider blurring it out as you never know who might be lurking on this site.

yep, will appreciate it if an admin can pull it and I will re-post.
 
How do you keep the oil in the bike for a year??? I have to change my oil and filter every 3 months or so ??? Does the bike sit a lot ???
 
Ok I lost sleep last night cuz now I'm curious what my oil has to say :)
May do one analysis just to see what's up .
 
Ok I lost sleep last night cuz now I'm curious what my oil has to say :)
May do one analysis just to see what's up .


Post up the results when you get them, please.

Check out the website called bobistheoilguy.com.

You can learn alot about all brands of oils there.
 
Post up the results when you get them, please.

Check out the website called bobistheoilguy.com.

You can learn alot about all brands of oils there.

What Jellystone says.

Blackstone ocassionally, will send out free test kits for you to return to them for the analysis.

These kits contain instructions, (on how to obtain the sample), and a small plastic jar with a good lid, and more instructions on how to pacckage and ship it to them.


I will do that..
Um did you mean Jellyrug ??? :poke: :rofl:
 
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