Sure. Driveability sucks if you use injectors that are too large. Yes, you can alter the duty cycle or pulse width to deliver the correct volume, but if you have ever done it, it's much easier to get them to run right with the correct sized injectors. The math is simple. Stoichiometric for gasoline is about 14.7:1, but optimum horsepower dictates running a little more rich than that just to make extra sure that you don't run out of fuel molecules first. If you get carried away and run too rich, that will hurt power also. It takes about .5lb of fuel per horsepower per hour with gasoline to reach this somewhat richer than 14.7:1 by weight. Interestingly enough, an engines BSFC is usually lowest at the engines torque peak. Let's say that you want to build a 500hp Typhoon. You already know that it's going to take about 250lbs of fuel per hour to get there. divide 250 by the six cylinders and you get the correct injector size. In this case, there are readily available 40# injectors and proms to control 40# injectors, so it is a slam dunk. Do the math and tell me what kind of normally aspirated engine is going to need 36# injectors. As far as the cool can goes, the Moroso Super Cool Can is a blue plastic jobbie that is insulated to keep the ice from melting from underhood heat. It has a liquid to liquid finned aluminum heat exchanger inside. It's designed purpose is to ice fuel. The Typhoon uses an air-to-water-to-air intercooler because of space constraints. There is a small radiator under the engines radiator that is fed air by a cutout in the front bumper cover, some simple ducting, and a black plastic flap underneath. It has no fan, so it cannot reject heat well while the vehicle is not moving (like in the staging lanes and on the launch pad). It uses and elecctric pump mounted behind the front sway bar to pump a 50/50 mixture of ethelyne glycol (antifreeze) that is separate from the engines coolant. It pumps up to a liquid to air intercooler located right beside the sideways mounted TPI throttle body, between the intake manifold plenum and the turbocharger compressor housing. The pump comes on at 234F, rendering the intercooler largely useless in stock form. I added Redline water wetter to the intercooler to improve it's ability to reduce charge air temperatures. I hard-wired the yellow wire with black tracer from the intercooler pump relay on the firewall to ground, causing the intercooler to pump any time the ignition key was on. I installed the super cool can in the left front area of the engine compartment, where the factory air box was before I installed the fenderwell ram air kit. I plumbed it into the intercooler coolant lines so that I could ice the intercooler. The pump runs and cools the intercooler while idling in the staging lanes in anticipation of impending boost. I put the trans in OD, skip the burnout box, roll straight forward and light the first light to rush my opponent. As soon as he finishes his burnout and lights his first light, I roll in. I wait for him to leave, and then foot brake it to about 3600rpm on the tach. I got about 10lbs of boost showing. On the last amber, I step off. 1.6 seconds later, I trip the 60' lights (on the factory all-season radials). I let the trans shift itself at about 5500rpm, and hopefully I catch my opponent just before the finish line. "Big" is a relative term. The stock cam was about 194 duration at .050" and the truck upshifted wide open at about 3800rpm (Best of 13.38 stone stock). The new cam I think was about 215 at .050" and peaked at about 5500rpm. I think the lobe centers were about 115 degrees apart. It needed a smooth idle to pass state emissions testing.