Static sag is 6, rider sag is 21. How do I increase it? This is rear, measured with Slacker
Sag
- Thread starter wreckwriter
- Start date
Front is 24/32
I havn't used my Slacker yet, but sag is adjusted by Preload.
The lock rings on the top of the rear spring, and the hex on top of the forks.
Loosen to increase, tighten to decrease.
Forks have 5 visible reference lines if you back them all the way out, but count the turns to keep both forks the same.
Count the visible threads above the top lock ring on the rear for reference.
3 threads visible is a good starting point.
The lock rings on the top of the rear spring, and the hex on top of the forks.
Loosen to increase, tighten to decrease.
Forks have 5 visible reference lines if you back them all the way out, but count the turns to keep both forks the same.
Count the visible threads above the top lock ring on the rear for reference.
3 threads visible is a good starting point.
This is an oldie, but still a great write-up.
www.hayabusa.org
JINKSTER ATTACKS "SUSPENSION" | Maintenance and Do-It-Yourself
This long post is for those of you who may be like me and use/ride your Hayabusa as "The Ultimate Hyper Sport Tourer". While the Busa is blessed with one he11 for power engine it's stock suspension leaves much to be desired by the curve slicing road warriors amoungst us. To wit?..it's front...
Thanks. That's what I needed
Read this several times, kind of confusing to meThis is an oldie, but still a great write-up.
JINKSTER ATTACKS "SUSPENSION" | Maintenance and Do-It-Yourself
This long post is for those of you who may be like me and use/ride your Hayabusa as "The Ultimate Hyper Sport Tourer". While the Busa is blessed with one he11 for power engine it's stock suspension leaves much to be desired by the curve slicing road warriors amoungst us. To wit?..it's front...
It'll make more sense as you play with it.
It took me a long time before suspension actually clicked in my head.
Once you figure it out, you'll be able to get the preload where it is most comfortable for you.
And you can make Rebound and Compression adjustments quickly on the roadside, which will really dial it in.
It's trial and error, but you'll get it.
You may also find you need to respring your front end as you are on the heavier side...I had to..
I changed out the springs and valves and put a Progressive shock out back and then dialed in the sag...I like the suspension to be a little stiff so set it like that....it rides a little rougher but is really stable when leaned over.
This^
Firm suspension is a little rough on most roads, but much more stable.
The softer it is, the more cushy it is over bumps, but the bike tends to float about more.
Kind of like a modern sports car vs a '70's boat, lol
Firm suspension is a little rough on most roads, but much more stable.
The softer it is, the more cushy it is over bumps, but the bike tends to float about more.
Kind of like a modern sports car vs a '70's boat, lol
I got the front dialed in but I need a longer punch for the rear. I only managed to get it to 24. Amazon has long punches.
Can you get a piece of 1" brass rod from a local machine shop?
Brass won't damage the lock rings.
Brass won't damage the lock rings.
Yea, I ordered a brass drift from Amazon. I have a shock spanner but can't get enough room to turn it. I assume the adjustment should be made with the wheel hanging in the air unloaded?
Dopey
Registered
If you pull the shifter side rearset off it makes it easier to adjust and it's only the 3 allen bolts you have to remove to get it out of the way.
Thanks. I'll try that
I run 20 of ridder sag on the rear and 32 in the front. Your numbers seem great for road racing. What kind of riding do you want to do with your bike?
MonkeyButtRides
Registered
If nobody has mentioned it, the static sag will tell you if you need heavier springs or lighter springs. If you have to crank the preload so tight that you lose to much static sag to get the right rider sag you need stiffer springs. That works in the other direction as well.
Just street
You can adjust preload on the ground, and you'll need to for the rear spring anyway.
The only reason the bike needed to be up was for old school sag measurements.
The Slacker shouldn't need that.
And, do you have a piece of 2' or 3' pipe you can get on your spanner wrench?
Wire brush and lightly oil the threads too.
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