Just to clarify, rear sag adjustment should be made with the weight on the bike, not lifted with weight off?
Sag
- Thread starter wreckwriter
- Start date
I can certainly get a piece of pipe but I don't see that there will be room to swing it. Very tight in there.
My rear is cranked way down, maybe 10 threads above the lock ring. Previous owner was a lot heavier than I. I'm 180
3 threads will be a good spot then.
All adjustments are made on the ground, the bike only gets lifted to measure the sag, but as far as I know, there is no need to lift the bike when using the Slacker, but I still havn't had the time on a nice day to get out and try my Slacker yet.
Slacker wants the bike lifted momentarily when you put it in auto zero mode.
Seems like there would be less pressure on the spring with the bike lifted?
Maybe less pressure, but more pressure from you pushing or pulling on the bike turning the lower lock ring, while it's less stable up on a stand.
I have done some, that once broken loose, can be be turned with little effort.
Others take alot of constant force to turn.
But, if the upper lock ring spins easily, then the threads are clean, which makes a huge difference.
A wire brush, compressed air, and a little penatrating oil go a long way.
Yes, lock ring spins freely. Once I broke it loose I was able to spin it all the way up by hand. Adjustment ring not so much.
ottafish
Registered
Slacker requires that the rear be lifted to extend the shock for a zero reading, or start.
I just grab the rear and lift the tyre off the ground and hold it for a few seconds then gently put it down again.
Slacker has been great it helping me set up as none of my buddies are close by, and my GF has no understanding of what I’m doing
I don't have enough muscle to lift it up
OK, this is what I ended up with. Thoughts?
I still havn't done anything with my Slacker, but if you have 34mm front, that's great.
If that is 27mm rear, that is going to be pretty stiff, and going to the mid 30's would soften your ride.
If that is 27mm rear, that is going to be pretty stiff, and going to the mid 30's would soften your ride.
OK, tomorrow is supposed to be bad weather so I'll work on it some more
+or-5 to 3 mm is huge. Pretty much have to measure by hand at that point to verify your numbers. Remember if you increase rear sag too much she won't turn in as quick or as sharp sonce the weigjt transfer will always be to the rear. Also increase the speed of your rebound. Tight sag numbers need faster rebound settings to work properly.
Current settings
Forks Preload 5 3/4 turns out
Compression 7 clicks out
Rebound 4 clicks out
Rear
Preload approx 5 threads above locknut
Compression (Top) 8 clicks out
Rebound (Bottom) 10 clicks out
Forks Preload 5 3/4 turns out
Compression 7 clicks out
Rebound 4 clicks out
Rear
Preload approx 5 threads above locknut
Compression (Top) 8 clicks out
Rebound (Bottom) 10 clicks out
This made a huge difference. Thank you again!
kim windsor
Registered
That’s what your girlfriend s for !
LOL, my wife is handicapped, she can barely stand....
Now you need to ride it, and see how it feels.
It's lowered in the back and you're not cornering.
You're sag is a reference so you can get a good start to making a Comfortable ride for you to cruise on.
Compression and Rebound are next, and are Small roadside adjustments.
But, the best way to figure them out, is too pick C or R, forks or rear shock, then turn one, forks or shock, C or R, only one, and crank it all the soft, ride it, then all the way firm.
That will take it from one extreme to the other, and give you a better understanding of where you want and need it to be.
Be patient too, as it may take a while to get the front and rear correct, then to get them working together.
It's lowered in the back and you're not cornering.
You're sag is a reference so you can get a good start to making a Comfortable ride for you to cruise on.
Compression and Rebound are next, and are Small roadside adjustments.
But, the best way to figure them out, is too pick C or R, forks or rear shock, then turn one, forks or shock, C or R, only one, and crank it all the soft, ride it, then all the way firm.
That will take it from one extreme to the other, and give you a better understanding of where you want and need it to be.
Be patient too, as it may take a while to get the front and rear correct, then to get them working together.
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