MrGraffixx
Registered
WOW, just found and signed up for this site today. Found all kinds of great information and since I have been a custom painter for 23 years now, I love seeing people write about paint and give just enough information out so people can try to to it themselves before going to a professional. It makes people respect and appreciate what we do even more and they also dont seem to gripe about the price now knowing how much work it truly is.
There was a lot of stuff you guys talked about that was good but I would have to say the biggest mistake you talked about was using primer over old paint. Not only does primer your bike making it a lot more heavy but, Old paint is the best primer you can have if it is in good condition. If your ever in a paint store of any kind, pick up a gallon of paint then go pick up a gallon of primer, The solids in primer are sometimes over 10 times more heavy then actual paint. The only time you would use primer on a factory painted bike is if you can not feather out the edges of 2 colors connecting such as the Hayabusa paint scheme. I also see the this thread was started in 03 and the piant technology is so far advanced sinc then that it makes some of the other things you said obsolete. And before I forget, do not EVER try to forc dry the plastic on your bike, not only are you taking a chance on warping the plastic, you are also not giving it time to adhere to the surface because unlike metal, plastic shrinks and expands in weather so to force dry it, it will not dry in relation to the pastic.
I dont want to be a know it all here but it looked like some people had contraversy over flex agent. To understand why felx agent was invented in the first place, would answer all questions. Car bumpers were mandated to absorb a minimum of a 5mph impact. Because of this, flex agent was designed to help the paint stretch with the raw SOFT plastic. Flex agent in NO WAY needs to be used on hard plastic such as what is used on our bikes. If you look at almost ANY type of car today, you will see that the colors on bumpers do not match the color of the car and this is because of the flex agent. Other chemicals have been incented that changes the way paint lays down called, flop adjusters and gradually, the colors are starting to get closer in relation the color of the car itself.
I also never saw the actual air pressure that you said needed to be exiting the nozzle on an HVLP, just so you know, almost all guns today, even the cheap knockoffs from pep boys come with regulators and it is fine for 65 pounds of air to be on the intake but A.Q.M.D. will not allow us to shoot with more then 18 pounds at the nozzle.
I could write a book here about color sanding and how to use a good high speed buffer to rub your bike out after color sanding but I think it would be easier just to answer any questions you guys might have. I dont have a lot of pics on my website of bikes so I will have to get with my web guy and get some up there.
This really looks like a great site and I am looking forward to being a member.
There was a lot of stuff you guys talked about that was good but I would have to say the biggest mistake you talked about was using primer over old paint. Not only does primer your bike making it a lot more heavy but, Old paint is the best primer you can have if it is in good condition. If your ever in a paint store of any kind, pick up a gallon of paint then go pick up a gallon of primer, The solids in primer are sometimes over 10 times more heavy then actual paint. The only time you would use primer on a factory painted bike is if you can not feather out the edges of 2 colors connecting such as the Hayabusa paint scheme. I also see the this thread was started in 03 and the piant technology is so far advanced sinc then that it makes some of the other things you said obsolete. And before I forget, do not EVER try to forc dry the plastic on your bike, not only are you taking a chance on warping the plastic, you are also not giving it time to adhere to the surface because unlike metal, plastic shrinks and expands in weather so to force dry it, it will not dry in relation to the pastic.
I dont want to be a know it all here but it looked like some people had contraversy over flex agent. To understand why felx agent was invented in the first place, would answer all questions. Car bumpers were mandated to absorb a minimum of a 5mph impact. Because of this, flex agent was designed to help the paint stretch with the raw SOFT plastic. Flex agent in NO WAY needs to be used on hard plastic such as what is used on our bikes. If you look at almost ANY type of car today, you will see that the colors on bumpers do not match the color of the car and this is because of the flex agent. Other chemicals have been incented that changes the way paint lays down called, flop adjusters and gradually, the colors are starting to get closer in relation the color of the car itself.
I also never saw the actual air pressure that you said needed to be exiting the nozzle on an HVLP, just so you know, almost all guns today, even the cheap knockoffs from pep boys come with regulators and it is fine for 65 pounds of air to be on the intake but A.Q.M.D. will not allow us to shoot with more then 18 pounds at the nozzle.
I could write a book here about color sanding and how to use a good high speed buffer to rub your bike out after color sanding but I think it would be easier just to answer any questions you guys might have. I dont have a lot of pics on my website of bikes so I will have to get with my web guy and get some up there.
This really looks like a great site and I am looking forward to being a member.