The starting problems start!
- Thread starter Viperam
- Start date
Edeezy
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A buddy of mine had the same problem on his Triumph Daytona 675 and it turned out to be the dying starter. It was ok to start initially but the starter would eat soo much amps trying to start it drained the battery just attempting to start it a couple of times. It was turning but it was turning very slow dimming all the lights like you described. After he had the starter replaced under warranty he hasn't had a problem since the repair.
I believe you may have missed most if not all of the thread but Thanks for the heads up.
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Vaggabon1
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I noticed smoke come out of my exhaust when i cold started the other day. hhmmmmmm.... is that the injectors?
Vaggabon1
Registered
Let me know how yours runs once its all back together. I found a website that has does injector cleaning. Do you know about them?
MPS Fuel Injector Cleaning and Flow Tester
$25 per injector
MPS Fuel Injector Cleaning and Flow Tester
$25 per injector
Vaggabon1
Registered
OKay, here is the run down of my evening. I wanted to eliminate as much things as I could so i started with the sensors; intake temp, engine temp, coolant temp (i know it only turns on the fan), intake pressure, and atmospheric pressure sensor. I basically checked continuity of all of them, which they are, normally closed and I tried starting the bike with them disconnected and with a jumper (while the bike was hot obviously). No change, no improvement.
I disconnected my power commander. no change, no improvement.
Have any of you had a motorcycle overheat before? My old CBR900RR (carburated) overheated a couple times and as soon as it gets that hot, it does not want to start. Is that because the ECU is preventing the bike from starting so to prevent further damage?!@!? If that is the case, maybe this sensor is being falsely triggered at too low a temperature. What do you guys think!??!?! I checked the spark plugs as well and the bike is still getting a spark...obviously, because i can still push start it. huuummmmmm
In further troubleshooting, i thought maybe my timing was off because i understand that this bike can have a bad cam tensioners and have the chain slip. I basically took off my cam cover and checked the timing points. Both cams had the markers pointed up (#2, and #3), cylinder No.1 was at TDC and the starter clutch markers were aligned. So no problem there.
At this point, the bike is still in pieces but no solution so far. I will have my injectors cleaned, maybe at the site I posted earlier.
Last thing, I noticed that my valves were cruddy as hell. Full of black gunk on the backside of them. Any idea on how to clean them???? I doubt regular fuel injector cleaner works because i used a whole bottle of that sea foam stuff. Let me know.
On to the next possible cause.
I disconnected my power commander. no change, no improvement.
Have any of you had a motorcycle overheat before? My old CBR900RR (carburated) overheated a couple times and as soon as it gets that hot, it does not want to start. Is that because the ECU is preventing the bike from starting so to prevent further damage?!@!? If that is the case, maybe this sensor is being falsely triggered at too low a temperature. What do you guys think!??!?! I checked the spark plugs as well and the bike is still getting a spark...obviously, because i can still push start it. huuummmmmm
In further troubleshooting, i thought maybe my timing was off because i understand that this bike can have a bad cam tensioners and have the chain slip. I basically took off my cam cover and checked the timing points. Both cams had the markers pointed up (#2, and #3), cylinder No.1 was at TDC and the starter clutch markers were aligned. So no problem there.
At this point, the bike is still in pieces but no solution so far. I will have my injectors cleaned, maybe at the site I posted earlier.
Last thing, I noticed that my valves were cruddy as hell. Full of black gunk on the backside of them. Any idea on how to clean them???? I doubt regular fuel injector cleaner works because i used a whole bottle of that sea foam stuff. Let me know.
On to the next possible cause.
ok well dammit on my bike its not the injectors.... the motor is back together on the bench... turns over fine by hand with a ratchet.... before i took it apart it would not even start cold anymore.... Now when i finished putting it back together, tried putting power to the starter with a big car battery and dammit the motor would not turn over.... since the begining i suspect the top starter clutch/restrictor... well i removed the big allen head bolt to have acces to the crank bolt...put power to the starter, the crank dosent turn BUT you can hear the top clutch restrictor slipping, the noise we are hearing isent from the starter, its from the restrictor slipping, took the cover off right after and the damm thing was hot like i suspected...starter still cold.... Im getting another one tomorrow to test will report later... my motor is in the chasis now, i want to start it tommorow night...
my bike is back together... and starting as cold and HOT also!!!
i could not get a limiter assy as it is b/o in canada for the moment, so heres what i did: take the limiter assy off your bike, take it apart and wheres the crush washers, shim it by adding an extra thick washer put it back together and voila! Worked on mine, my problem was there.
i could not get a limiter assy as it is b/o in canada for the moment, so heres what i did: take the limiter assy off your bike, take it apart and wheres the crush washers, shim it by adding an extra thick washer put it back together and voila! Worked on mine, my problem was there.
we have unrelated issues. My motor was turning one to three revolutions when binding as I felt the exhaust "poof". And my engine would turn over perfect when I take the plugs out. And since I've replaced every component from the starter to engine, including the cover, idler, limiter, starter clutch, pins and bushings twice. Both with brand new suzuki parts and parts from a working donor bike. I assure you this possibility for my bike was explored early, to its fullest extent, and revisited twice by two different shops.
I'm glad this worked for you. My binding is completely gone. Just hesitant to start when hot now, running rich and fouling my plugs. Bike is parked now until I get the injectors figured out.
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I'm glad this worked for you. My binding is completely gone. Just hesitant to start when hot now, running rich and fouling my plugs. Bike is parked now until I get the injectors figured out.
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Vaggabon1
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Checked the bike and starter clutch is spinning whne the bike is hot or cold so i dont think the limiter is the problem. If it were, id hear the starter motor spinning quickly. It is hardly moving when the hot.
I was doubting the relay and checked that again but that was good. Resistance was 3.9ohms, (should be between 3-5ohms).
I checked the gear position switch and the resistance is all good.
I was thinking that the cam position switch could be a factor since it is one of the three things that effect the ignition timing. I dont know...
I gave up on it for this week.
I was doubting the relay and checked that again but that was good. Resistance was 3.9ohms, (should be between 3-5ohms).
I checked the gear position switch and the resistance is all good.
I was thinking that the cam position switch could be a factor since it is one of the three things that effect the ignition timing. I dont know...
I gave up on it for this week.
Gear position would prevent the starter switch from working period. It wouldnt cause the drag. The cam position was something i looked in too. But its a pass fail sensor too. its not going to advance or retard timing just not send a signal to the ecu, which would cause your motor to turn over and turn over but never fire. You would also get a check engine light.
From another thread!!!
This is exacly what im talking about. Now what is causing it? Injectors?
Where the engine stops and what position the pistons are in (compression, exhaust, intake). I wish I could find away to make it stop, but it is the mechanics of a hot engine. Heck, was sitting at a light yesterday and a guy was trying to ask me a question. Shut the bike down to hear him...when we got finished talking, tried to start the bike up and it was a no go! Pulled the clutch in, moved the bike forward popped the clutch which in turn rotated the engine enough and the starter fired her right back up.
Why is there enough fuel and vapor in the busas relatively low compression engine with the largest combustion chamber in the sport bike world having hydrolock issues. It seems fuel is leaking into the cylinder with the intake valve open on shutdown, and when you turn it over its binding, right? something is causing the extra fuel and vapor. I think its leaking injectors.
Has done this since I first bought my Gen2 and does it on my Gen1, the only time it does not happen is when the ambient air temp is below 80 degrees and the bikes are kept in the shade after running. There are a number of other forums that have discussed the very same issue on bikes locking on hot days. A friend who rides a VFR was the one that I was with when it happened the first time. He told me to rock my bike...bingo it worked. I do agree that this is may not be the only issue, but it is a common issue.
How many volts are u getting at the starter? and i would pull the injectors and put them over a pan of some sort and just turn the key without starting the bike to see if u get abnornal flow from any of the injectors. i had rusty tank and red fuel and my injectors. soi clened all lines tank used brake cleaner , blew back all crud in fuel filter and cleaned most of tthe rust out of it. rea ssembled and rechecked now i haved good gas at the injectors free and clear of any deposits. but eventually. or it may be time for a TB sync.....
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