update on ENGINE ICE

[BusaFever]

Horse piss...
It's guaranteed to lower your engine temp by 20-50 degrees.  Only $25 a gallon.  You can even mix it with your existing coolant.  Let me know if you're interested.  I can even do a "group buy"  if there is enough interest.

Dood you seriously have no idea what you are talking about.

It's not guaranteed.
It's not $25 a gallon. (if you paid that much I am truly sorry)
AND
It's pre-mixed, you don't add water or mix with existing coolant.

You should really read that FAQ that I posted earlier...

No wonder you called it snake oil if you mixed it with you coolant.... heck no it aint gonna work if you don't follow the directions.



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[Revlis]

Engine Ice really comes into it own on the tracks where Traditional "Slippery" coolants are not allowed. Drag strip, most road courses etc. VS running just de-ionized water it's hella better. BUT out in the world it's just plain ole good stuff. Should work great, but it's not going to be magic.

Lots of factors contribute to engine temps. Humidity, throttle usage, plug usage, ambient temps, blah blah blah... From my POV Engine Ice is great stuff ssimply because it's not fuggin toxic, and it works great.

Done Deal.

 

[The Big Red One]

I'd like to know how come my Busa can sit in 100 degree weather all day and never go over half way with just plain coolant, and other's bikes overheat after 20 minutes in the winter.....I think maybe theres something else going on there....just a hunch::

 

[BusaFever]

I'd like to know how come my Busa can sit in 100 degree weather all day and never go over half way with just plain coolant, and other's bikes overheat after 20 minutes in the winter.....I think maybe theres something else going on there....just a hunch::

exactly!

People think this stuff is like magic or something... It's not going to fix you cooling systems problems.

 

[1127 TO 1299]

Horse piss...
It's guaranteed to lower your engine temp by 20-50 degrees. Only $25 a gallon. You can even mix it with your existing coolant. Let me know if you're interested. I can even do a "group buy" if there is enough interest.

Dood you seriously have no idea what you are talking about.

It's not guaranteed.
It's not $25 a gallon. (if you paid that much I am truly sorry)
AND
It's pre-mixed, you don't add water or mix with existing coolant.

You should really read that FAQ that I posted earlier...

No wonder you called it snake oil if you mixed it with you coolant.... heck no it aint gonna work if you don't follow the directions.

engine ice sells for 15.95 to 17.95 for half a gallon

that's like 32 to 36 a gallon

 

[Sithor]

People, I think skak was making a joke about horsepiss being a coolant.  He was saying guaranteed to lower your engine temp by 20-50 degrees.  Only $25 a gallon.  You can even mix it with your existing coolant.  You know the horsepiss, not Engine Ice.  He even said he would do a group buy on horsepiss, sounds good right?  

I bought two half gallons of Engine Ice last year for my SV and never used it.  I still have it.  I think after a while I'll replace the 'Busa coolant with this stuff.



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[MoosesBusa]

I bought to half gallons of Engine Ice last year for my SV and never used it.  I still have it.  I think after a while I'll replace the 'Busa coolant with this stuff.

If that is your plan then you'd better get another gallon. It takes 3/4 of a gallon to fill a Busa/s cooling system.

 

[ozz]

I switched to the ice and a muzzy fan last week and noticed that the fan cycles less often. Seems to run a bit cooler..

 

[Skak]

Horse piss...
It's guaranteed to lower your engine temp by 20-50 degrees.  Only $25 a gallon.  You can even mix it with your existing coolant.  Let me know if you're interested.  I can even do a "group buy"  if there is enough interest.

Dood you seriously have no idea what you are talking about.

It's not guaranteed.
It's not $25 a gallon. (if you paid that much I am truly sorry)
AND
It's pre-mixed, you don't add water or mix with existing coolant.

You should really read that FAQ that I posted earlier...

No wonder you called it snake oil if you mixed it with you coolant....  heck no it aint gonna work if you don't follow the directions.

There's a sucker born every minute. I'm okay with that. Makes it easier for the rest of us to make a few bucks.

 

[Skak]

BTW, I've still got that horse piss if you're interested. Let me know...

 

[MoosesBusa]

There's a sucker born every minute. I'm okay with that. Makes it easier for the rest of us to make a few bucks.

BTW, I've still got that horse piss if you're interested.  Let me know...

A wise man once told that that it is better to have someone think you are an idiot than to open your mouth and prove it. Perhaps you should REALLY think about that.

 

[dudewizr]

Why is everyone so freaked out about the fan kicking on? Isn't it supposed to kick on at a certain point to col the engine? What are you guys calling "Overheating"? Is this the temperature at when the fan kicks on? On my gauge overheating is in the Red and I never even come close to that. If you want the engine running cooler why don't you change the thermostat so the fan kicks on sooner. I don't knwo the specific numbers but for example, if my fan kicks on at 180 deg f. and cools it back down to 150 deg f. wouldn't that be better than an additive that allows it to run at 160 deg f.? Things that make you go hmmmmmmmmm.???

 

[Skak]

There's a sucker born every minute.  I'm okay with that.  Makes it easier for the rest of us to make a few bucks.

BTW, I've still got that horse piss if you're interested.  Let me know...

A wise man once told that that it is better to have someone think you are an idiot than to open your mouth and prove it. Perhaps you should REALLY think about that.

You should stick close to that wise man dude!

 

[dm_gsxr]

Why is everyone so freaked out about the fan kicking on? Isn't it supposed to kick on at a certain point to col the engine? What are you guys calling "Overheating"? Is this the temperature at when the fan kicks on? On my gauge overheating is in the Red and I never even come close to that. If you want the engine running cooler why don't you change the thermostat so the fan kicks on sooner. I don't knwo the specific numbers but for example, if my fan kicks on at 180 deg f. and cools it back down to 150 deg f. wouldn't that be better than an additive that allows it to run at 160 deg f.? Things that make you go hmmmmmmmmm.???

On a couple of occasions, my fan's kicked on and the temp hasn't been able to go down because I'm sitting in traffic or at a construction zone. 99% of the time I never have an issue.

I'm going to be installing the muzzy fan so the bike will be able to cool down faster in those situations.

As to reducing the temp, I know that the heat from the engine can get quite hot, even on a ride home. If I could reduce the engine temp by 10 or 20 degrees, combined with the fan, it'd make a bit of a difference in how comfortable I am in my 'stich while sitting at a long light.

If you can get the bike to run cooler, doesn't that save on oil breakdown which lets componants last longer?

Another item would be the mixture. It's apparent that some folks may not know how to mix the green stuff. It's supposed to be 50/50 to 60/40 (read the label) and you have to use distilled water. If it's straight, it doesn't protect as well against the high temps so you might get overheated.

If you don't use distilled water, you should change it every year or so (from what I've read). The materials in the green stuff break down after a year so it doesn't protect your componants from the non-distilled water (if you use it). If you use distilled water, the green stuff should last two years.

Of course this is all from materials I've been reading and it's how I do things (and plan to WRT the fan). YMMV.

Carl

 

[MoosesBusa]

Why is everyone so freaked out about the fan kicking on?  Isn't it supposed to kick on at a certain point to col the engine?  What are you guys calling "Overheating"? Is this the temperature at when the fan kicks on?  On my gauge overheating is in the Red and I never even come close to that.  If you want the engine running cooler why don't you change the thermostat so the fan kicks on sooner.  I don't knwo the specific numbers but for example, if my fan kicks on at 180 deg f. and cools it back down to 150 deg f. wouldn't that be better than an additive that allows it to run at 160 deg f.?  Things that make you go hmmmmmmmmm.???

By overheating I am referring to the temp gauge pointing due North with the red LED lit. The needle pointing level is the "normal " operating range and is what we are wanting the needle NOT to exceed. Until I swapped the coolant and changed my fan, my needle did not stay in the acceptable operating range. Once I did the swap my problem disappeared.

 

[Revlis]

Yeah, I've been pretty baffled... Two years of Tampa heat an the Busa never overheated. The few times I was really stuck in stop and go, I'd simply shut the Busa off... No worries.

 

[BusaCruise]

I didn't read every post in this thread...but there seems to be a common point that most are missing.
Engine Ice and Water Wetter..etc.... serve a purpose that can mislead you.
It's not that you are supposed to notice lower temperatures....in fact you might even see a higher temp...but that means that it is working. The purpose of these products is to transfer the heat away from your motor...a "wicking" affect or similar to a heatsink on a CPU. the device or product is merely a conduit for heat transfer. the more heat taken into the coolant, the lower the temp of the engine parts themselves.
those in high humidity areas and others running higher compression pistons will notice the greatest improvement.
Also, since the products are not glycol based...they are better for the environment and not slippery messes to clean from track race surfaces.

their composition also withstands a wider range of temps (vapor point/freezing point) and allows you to avoid changing mixtures to match seasonal temps.

the more extreme your conditions, the more improvement you would notice over standard coolant formulas.

 

[BusaCruise]

By overheating I am referring to the temp gauge pointing due North with the red LED lit. The needle pointing level is the "normal " operating range and is what we are wanting the needle NOT to exceed. Until I swapped the coolant and changed my fan, my needle did not stay in the acceptable operating range. Once I did the swap my problem disappeared.

moose... you very likely had a bubble in your system from day one. and it remained until you made your change out.
Occasionally a complete drain is the only way to get those out.

I have left mine in the driveway for 20~30 minutes in this same heat...and she handles it well.

I understand your concern tho....that needle should never get much above the 1/2 point! yikes!
any chance you were looking the a mirror and actually viewing the gas auge? lol j/k
sometimes it's just the luck of the draw.



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[MoosesBusa]

moose... you very likely had a bubble in your system from day one.   and it remained until you made your change out.
Occasionally a complete drain is the only way to get those out.

Knowing the dealerships mechanical capabilities, I wouldn't doubt it. No matter what the problem WAS, I am happy as a lark that it is gone!
I appreciate the education about what the Engine ice actually does. To be honest, I don't mind the higher temps of the coolant as long as they do not exceed the point at which they cannot be cooled. That kick butt Muzzy fan seems to insure that process is fast and efficient.

 

[atticdog]

My bike runs exactly like mzrsq's with nothing but the stock coolant....NEVER goes above the halfway mark no matter how long I sit or how hot it is.

Thats exactly how mine is with stock coolant

stays just below half while rideing and in traffic fan comes on at the halfway line and turns off a minute later then comes back on but never climbs above half wayline