What did you do to your other motorcycle today ?

[TallTom]

Thankyou sir
These forks do not have adjustable compression or rebound, and preload is determined by spring length, so they are very simple to rebuild.
The only special tools needed are a 2-piece fork seal driver(fits around fork tubes), and a long 6mm allen socket to torque the lower fork leg bolt.
Lower bushings simply fit into a groove in the fork, and the upper bushings drive in before the seals.
Getting the forks in and out is not difficult either.

I think you missed my question. How do you service the fork oil as disired? It would seem over the top to have to disassemble them to do it.

 

[sixpack577]

Nice. I've never ridden one but I am told they are comfortable. Had I sat on one of those before the Harley who know what Id be riding right now. As for the forks, Harley has never invested much time into factory suspension. Even the rears are a joke with only one side preload adjustable. The forks I rebuilt with weight appropriate springs and changed the valves, heavier oil. Took all the dive out of it, defiantly stiffened up the front making it more suitable in the turns, yes still is lacking. Short of new Ohlins adjustable forks or a cartridge kit its as good as its gonna get.

Yeah, but you are in the minority of HD owners.
I know injury pushed you to riding a couch too...but you still did alot with the suspension, and only real riders adjust suspension...

 

[sixpack577]

I think you missed my question. How do you service the fork oil as d sited? It would seem over the top to have to disassemble them to do it.

You would have to remove the fork caps, syphon out the fluid, pump the cartridge in one fork to get all the oil out, and refill them with the correct amount(basically 5" below the top of the vertical tube, so account for the rake of the forks on the bike).

I would seriously say that is much more trouble than it's worth.
Pulling the forks to replace seals and bushings is a good idea, given the age and mileage of these machines in general.
But, wait for an opportune time, like at your next front tire change, then it's only remove a few bolts and slide out the forks.

 

[SSGT_B]

only real riders adjust suspension...

Fact there.....lol

 

[TallTom]

Steering bearings were also easy.
The GW looks complicated in the pictures, simply because there is alot of trim to remove...finding places to temporarily put all of it has been the hardest part, lol, really.
Once you get some plastic out of the way, you begin to see how well Honda designed this bike.
Even removing the front end is simple.
The other hard part, my bad technique of getting it on the center-stand, lol, but once on it, it's great.
I gently push down on the rear, and the weight rests on the rear tire, I then put a floor jack with a block of wood on it under the front of the engine.
There is no real weight load there either, as the bike is front heavy, but teeters easily on the center stand.
From there things are wide open to remove the forks and triple-clamps, the brakes swing out of the way, and there is plenty of room to work.

Oh I totally discussed the same on my thread. It is complex at first. I mean you very often have to remove quite a bit to do very little. But you do realize how well thought out it is once in there. And it's designed to need very little.

Aside from routine maintenance which is very easy and straightforward (air filter excluded from that statement), you really won't need to worry too much about hauling all your tools around in order to work on it. They are built for stupidly reliable continental touring.

 

[Bumblebee]

Fact there.....lol

It sure don't matter how fast it will go if it won't turn or stop......or buck you off when you hit rough pavement......

I used to piecemeal my suspension with parts from different manufacturers then I went basically with Progressive brand to keep it simple...my Bumblebee is floating on Progressive brand suspension front and rear.

I was never rich enough to go with Ohlins.....

 

[SSGT_B]

It sure don't matter how fast it will go if it won't turn or stop......or buck you off when you hit rough pavement......

I used to piecemeal my suspension with parts from different manufacturers then I went basically with Progressive brand to keep it simple...my Bumblebee is floating on Progressive brand suspension front and rear.

I was never rich enough to go with Ohlins.....

Well the back got the Ohlins as I couldn't pass up the deal for them. The front..... will be a long time in the savings. Cartridge kit I can get under 900 non adjustable or 1200 adjustable, Ohlins inverted forks....6K. Either way, more money than I can afford this year.

 

[TallTom]

You would have to remove the fork caps, syphon out the fluid, pump the cartridge in one fork to get all the oil out, and refill them with the correct amount(basically 5" below the top of the vertical tube, so account for the rake of the forks on the bike).

I would seriously say that is much more trouble than it's worth.
Pulling the forks to replace seals and bushings is a good idea, given the age and mileage of these machines in general.
But, wait for an opportune time, like at your next front tire change, then it's only remove a few bolts and slide out the forks.

Well at 25K and knowing it was serviced when the upgrade was done, I'm not inclined to think I need to do it anytime soon. I just wondered it when I had mine apart. I don't remember seeing what I'd consider to be a drain port.

 

[TallTom]

I've yet to even see the rear shock, so I don't know if it's aftermarket or not, but the factory electronic/hydraulic remote rear preload adjuster works very well.

Have you tested your rear pre-load for air in the system? It shows itself as a dead spot from 0 until the pump pushes the piston enough to compress the air. Then the suspension actually begins to adjust. Some report dead from 0 to as high as 9 or 10 before anything happens.

It apparently was on all Hondas as the shocks were all assembled from Shiowa that way and Honda just installed them directly.

Mine had it. I had no adjustment until I hit 5.

If you have it now, wait til you don't. Your pre-load will feel a LOT better.

 

[sixpack577]

It sure don't matter how fast it will go if it won't turn or stop......or buck you off when you hit rough pavement......

I used to piecemeal my suspension with parts from different manufacturers then I went basically with Progressive brand to keep it simple...my Bumblebee is floating on Progressive brand suspension front and rear.

I was never rich enough to go with Ohlins.....

Yep, and not alot of GW upgrades available, but, I do have the aftermarket fork springs, the tapered steering bearings do track better, I have new Ebc HH pads to put on, front and rear, which are said to be a noticeable improvement on the GW.
I still need to see if the rear shock is stock or not either, as again, it handles great.
I didn't get this from the original owner, who apparently put all the mods on it, there have been a few good suprises so far.
The Centramatics balancers supposedly smooth things out alot too, which I belive, as bad as the vibration and bar shake was if I took my hands off of the bars, with the bad steering bearings, it still rode well.
My front brake is just the front, or linked barely enough to notice, and is lacking.
The rear brake pedal, brakes front and rear, and very good, this is a completely different animal, vs my life long dirtbike and sportbike riding style.
I can't call it a cruiser either.
It's as if I sat down in a comfortable office chair with handlebars and footpegs, that I can quickly lean it or flick it side to side through corners, only limited by ground clearance, with plenty of torque, and a smooth ride with near perfect handling, the suspension feels as if it's on rails, while the bike just floats along...all while listening to the radio, and still being able to clearly hear what's going on around me.
The sportbike rider in me won't die(I just have dirtbike bars on the 1k now, lol), but this old Goldwing is a totally different experience.
I think that they stereo-typed as the 'old and retired guy' bike, but that was because this was the majority of the market that could afford a new one, with the time to ride it, vs a younger group that missed out on knowing just how good this machine is.
In that regard, the Goldwing ranks at the top of the all-time best bikes list, along with the Hayabusa, not just in their own cult followings for their own reasons, but that both bikes are actually very similiar in the fact that they are both extremely versitile motorcycles.
They are type-cast as one thing, but actually do many things well.
I've always ridden as many bikes as I had an opportunity to, and there's been several bikes that I got new or used that I'de never ridden prior, going on my best judgement of what I could compare a bike to, I'de decide if I wanted to risk buying one.
Usually, I like them, sometimes I don't, but never regret the experience.
The GW, I just waited for the right one, and went and got it, lol, and I'll see what happens.
Fortunately, I've been amazed, as this bike is so good on so many levels.
Cutting edge? lol, I don't know if it ever was, but it is just one of those motorcycles that was done right.
Go test ride one from a Craigslist ad, check them out, they are a great riding experience, regardless whether it's the right bike for someone or not.
I can't give up sportbikes, and will have one as long as I'm able...and my other bike will from now on be a Goldwing...I am that enamored with this thing...love at first ride...the pig just needed some lipstick...and now I'm going to shamelessly parade her about...
lmao

 

[sixpack577]

Well at 25K and knowing it was serviced when the upgrade was done, I'm not inclined to think I need to do it anytime soon. I just wondered it when I had mine apart. I don't remember seeing what I'd consider to be a drain port.

No, they do not have a specific drain.
The bottom bolt in each fork holds the cartridge to the fork leg, but yes, fluid would run out, lol.
You pour and pump the fluid out of the open cap end of the fork.
And yes, your forks should be fine then.

 

[sixpack577]

Have you tested your rear pre-load for air in the system? It shows itself as a dead spot from 0 until the pump pushes the piston enough to compress the air. Then the suspension actually begins to adjust. Some report dead from 0 to as high as 9 or 10 before anything happens.

It apparently was on all Hondas as the shocks were all assembled from Shiowa that way and Honda just installed them directly.

Mine had it. I had no adjustment until I hit 5.

If you have it now, wait til you don't. Your pre-load will feel a LOT better.

Now that you mention that, yes, the system is working, but how much from 5 to 10 I've wondered.
But, at 12 or 14, it rides fantastic.
I am going to finish up the front, then go to the back of the bike.
I will check into it's operation then.

 

[TallTom]

Yep, and not alot of GW upgrades available, but, I do have the aftermarket fork springs, the tapered steering bearings do track better, I have new Ebc HH pads to put on, front and rear, which are said to be a noticeable improvement on the GW.
I still need to see if the rear shock is stock or not either, as again, it handles great.
I didn't get this from the original owner, who apparently put all the mods on it, there have been a few good suprises so far.
The Centramatics balancers supposedly smooth things out alot too, which I belive, as bad as the vibration and bar shake was if I took my hands off of the bars, with the bad steering bearings, it still rode well.
My front brake is just the front, or linked barely enough to notice, and is lacking.
The rear brake pedal, brakes front and rear, and very good, this is a completely different animal, vs my life long dirtbike and sportbike riding style.
I can't call it a cruiser either.
It's as if I sat down in a comfortable office chair with handlebars and footpegs, that I can quickly lean it or flick it side to side through corners, only limited by ground clearance, with plenty of torque, and a smooth ride with near perfect handling, the suspension feels as if it's on rails, while the bike just floats along...all while listening to the radio, and still being able to clearly hear what's going on around me.
The sportbike rider in me won't die(I just have dirtbike bars on the 1k now, lol), but this old Goldwing is a totally different experience.
I think that they stereo-typed as the 'old and retired guy' bike, but that was because this was the majority of the market that could afford a new one, with the time to ride it, vs a younger group that missed out on knowing just how good this machine is.
In that regard, the Goldwing ranks at the top of the all-time best bikes list, along with the Hayabusa, not just in their own cult followings for their own reasons, but that both bikes are actually very similiar in the fact that they are both extremely versitile motorcycles.
They are type-cast as one thing, but actually do many things well.
I've always ridden as many bikes as I had an opportunity to, and there's been several bikes that I got new or used that I'de never ridden prior, going on my best judgement of what I could compare a bike to, I'de decide if I wanted to risk buying one.
Usually, I like them, sometimes I don't, but never regret the experience.
The GW, I just waited for the right one, and went and got, lol, see what happens.
Fortunately, I've been amazed, and this bike is so good on so many levels.
Cutting edge? lol, I don't know if it ever was, but it is just one of those motorcycles that was done right.
Go test ride one from a Craigslist ad, check them out, they are a great riding experience whether it's for someone or not.
I can't give up sportbikes, and will have one as long as I'm able.
and my other bike will from now on be a Goldwing...I am that enamored with this thing...love at first ride...the pig just needed some lipstick...now I'm going to shamelessly parade her about...
lmao

For what's it's worth. You can YouTube and Google search a turbo Goldwing. Guy did a fantastic job and posts up performance runs.

Holy crap the pig has wings!!!

Pretty impressive.

 

[TallTom]

Now that you mention that, yes, the system is working, but how much from 5 to 10 I wondered.
But, at 12 or 14, it rides fantastic.
I am going to finish up the front, then go to the back of the bike.
I will check into it's operation then.

Mine had it. Before I burped it, I was running pre-load at about 11. Just me, no luggage.

Afterwords, I now ran same conditions at about 5-6.

Then I upgraded the rear shock. Zero feels pretty dang good. Which is what Honda intended for that setting. 0-2 is single rider. No luggage.

Except the stock shock was miles away from that table. Until you get it right.

I think my memory is set at 4 if I'm looking at Twisties.

 

[sixpack577]

Mine had it. Before I burped it, I was running pre-load at about 11. Just me, no luggage.

Afterwords, I now ran same conditions at about 5-6.

Then I upgraded the rear shock. Zero feels pretty dang good. Which is what Honda intended for that setting. 0-2 is single rider. No luggage.

Except the stock shock was miles away from that table. Until you get it right.

I think my memory is set at 4 if I'm looking at Twisties.

I'll look in the service manual and see if I can find the bleeding procedure.
Thanks, as I didn't think about air in that line, or it's negative effect on adjustment.

 

[Bumblebee]

Yep, and not alot of GW upgrades available, but, I do have the aftermarket fork springs, the tapered steering bearings do track better, I have new Ebc HH pads to put on, front and rear, which are said to be a noticeable improvement on the GW.
I still need to see if the rear shock is stock or not either, as again, it handles great.
I didn't get this from the original owner, who apparently put all the mods on it, there have been a few good suprises so far.
The Centramatics balancers supposedly smooth things out alot too, which I belive, as bad as the vibration and bar shake was if I took my hands off of the bars, with the bad steering bearings, it still rode well.
My front brake is just the front, or linked barely enough to notice, and is lacking.
The rear brake pedal, brakes front and rear, and very good, this is a completely different animal, vs my life long dirtbike and sportbike riding style.
I can't call it a cruiser either.
It's as if I sat down in a comfortable office chair with handlebars and footpegs, that I can quickly lean it or flick it side to side through corners, only limited by ground clearance, with plenty of torque, and a smooth ride with near perfect handling, the suspension feels as if it's on rails, while the bike just floats along...all while listening to the radio, and still being able to clearly hear what's going on around me.
The sportbike rider in me won't die(I just have dirtbike bars on the 1k now, lol), but this old Goldwing is a totally different experience.
I think that they stereo-typed as the 'old and retired guy' bike, but that was because this was the majority of the market that could afford a new one, with the time to ride it, vs a younger group that missed out on knowing just how good this machine is.
In that regard, the Goldwing ranks at the top of the all-time best bikes list, along with the Hayabusa, not just in their own cult followings for their own reasons, but that both bikes are actually very similiar in the fact that they are both extremely versitile motorcycles.
They are type-cast as one thing, but actually do many things well.
I've always ridden as many bikes as I had an opportunity to, and there's been several bikes that I got new or used that I'de never ridden prior, going on my best judgement of what I could compare a bike to, I'de decide if I wanted to risk buying one.
Usually, I like them, sometimes I don't, but never regret the experience.
The GW, I just waited for the right one, and went and got it, lol, and I'll see what happens.
Fortunately, I've been amazed, as this bike is so good on so many levels.
Cutting edge? lol, I don't know if it ever was, but it is just one of those motorcycles that was done right.
Go test ride one from a Craigslist ad, check them out, they are a great riding experience, regardless whether it's the right bike for someone or not.
I can't give up sportbikes, and will have one as long as I'm able...and my other bike will from now on be a Goldwing...I am that enamored with this thing...love at first ride...the pig just needed some lipstick...and now I'm going to shamelessly parade her about...
lmao

I rode a fully loaded gold (ish) colored '09....actually rode it home new from the dealership for a friend who wanted my opinion on it....I told him it was a little late for that seeing as he now owned it....

One word to describe it was 'smooth'......it shifted like butter, handled well, braked well and even though it was set up by the dealership, the suspension was pretty decent.

Was it for me? Nope........but it IS for someone.....just not me.....

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Go ride one Greg...I dare ya!
lmao

Ok, but I was riding the other day with a large group of Wing riders up in the mountains. . . when I say Wing riders I really mean 'Junior 'Wing riders.
I was not impressed with how slow they were getting up the mountain and the suits and the gear they were riding was INSANE!
We all stopped at the Lake at the top of the hill for a rest . . . have a look at these dudes, of course my Busa looks absolutely resplendent (as usual) glittering in gold in the sunlight!

 

[ottafish]

What revs are you turning at 70 and 80 mph?

That's a good question.. I'm about 500 more at around 110kph

 

[TallTom]

My front brake is just the front, or linked barely enough to notice, and is lacking.
The rear brake pedal, brakes front and rear, and very good, this is a completely different animal, vs my life long dirtbike and sportbike riding style.

I'm not sure how the linking is proportioned. Like any bike most of the stopping power is done up front. I also went with EBC HH and fresh fluid. It definitely improved braking but to your point, how much rear is linked to the front?

I'm just educated guessing that the main reason they want to link in the rear is to keep that big phat rear end from trying to swap places with the front end in the event you need to haul her down quickly.

I've experimented a little when I ride. 2 fingers pulling in pretty hard and I don't feel the rear end lighten up. But it's a lot of weight up front generally anyway.

I had an opportunity to have a rear passenger. He needed a ride to pick up his Harley. It was in my earlier days of miles. Like the first 200.

So he is probably 200. I'm 230. And I didn't remember to run the pre-load up. So it was very front light in geometry.

The 1st time I went to grab front brake it felt actually dangerously inadequate. But the rear end never felt like it wasn't trail braking.

I remembered to run up the pre-load and it improved braking by 200%. So it's possible the linking is progressive based on the pre-load setting as well. The bike knows what value you have set for pre-load. So it may proportionally move that linking based on Pre-load as a component. Having said that, then that would mean there is a brake module somewhere working all that out.

Or that anti dive plunger is the mechanical coupling. The more the front end dives, the more piston travel. And that is directly linked to the brakes.

I would have a hard time believing Honda went to all this trouble to link brakes, without figuring out how to proportion it through varying circumstances.

 

[sixpack577]

I'm not sure how the linking is proportioned. Like any bike most of the stopping power is done up front. I also went with EBC HH and fresh fluid. It definitely improved braking but to your point, how much rear is linked to the front?

I'm just educated guessing that the main reason they want to link in the rear is to keep that big phat rear end from trying to swap places with the front end in the event you need to haul her down quickly.

I've experimented a little when I ride. 2 fingers pulling in pretty hard and I don't feel the rear end lighten up. But it's a lot of weight up front generally anyway.

I had an opportunity to have a rear passenger. He needed a ride to pick up his Harley. It was in my earlier days of miles. Like the first 200.

So he is probably 200. I'm 230. And I didn't remember to run the pre-load up. So it was very front light in geometry.

The 1st time I went to grab front brake it felt actually dangerously inadequate. But the rear end never felt like it wasn't trail braking.

I remembered to run up the pre-load and it improved braking by 200%. So it's possible the linking is progressive based on the pre-load setting as well. The bike knows what value you have set for pre-load. So it may proportionally move that linking based on Pre-load as a component. Having said that, then that would mean there is a brake module somewhere working all that out.

Or that anti dive plunger is the mechanical coupling. The more the front end dives, the more piston travel. And that is directly linked to the brakes.

I would have a hard time believing Honda went to all this trouble to link brakes, without figuring out how to proportion it through varying circumstances.

I'm not sure of the front/rear ratio on the linked braking either.
Mine is not an ABS bike, and the system is very simple from what I see.
The anti-dive works great on mine as well.
The whole bike felt very stable, but
I will wait and see how noticeable the pad swap is too.