What did you do to your other motorcycle today ?

As for the carbs- yeah only 6mo. I completely cleaned and rebuilt them top to bottom in April after I had issues with the pilot jets clogging. I ran it regularly enough with a fresh fuel filter(every few weeks at minimum) with several tanks of fresh fuel through them in that time and it ran awesome. Then it ran crumby once about a 3 weeks ago. Then ran fine the next day. Then the next weekend it wouldn’t run at all and the choke was sticking real bad and not operating correctly. So I knew I had a carb issue again. But in all the time I’ve had it, and in all my time Messi with carbs, I’ve never seen build up like that in that short of time. It’s on the cylinder side of the carbs, intake side is clean, bowls are clean, jets are clean. But needles, needle seats, cylinder side throats and butterflies are coated. Im not sure what would cause that. As for the air filters- I’ve never oiled them. Only whatever oil was on them out of the box. But the bike has ran good when it was running over the last 3 years since I did a pod kit setup on the carbs for the new exhaust. I can probly rule out the filters. At best they may need a cleaning, but even then, not sure I’d oil them or just do a super light coat if I did.
Just odd and annoying.

Part of me wants to just go to a single carb setup and stop messing with these dual carbs. But that’s also an expensive endeavor in itself and there isn’t really much reason these carbs shouldn’t work right short of bad fuel reaction?
I will be going back to non-ethanol fuel in this bike. I used to run it all the time on 90 eth free and didn’t have these issues, but I switched back after the last rebuild and now I see this internally.
It will be the last time i mess with these carbs though. If I they fail again I will be going to a single carb setup. I lose a bit of power with a single setup, but tuning and maintaining is ten fold easier. After I get these rebuilt, I have to lean drop and re-sync them which is a pain to do.
Yes, I'd steer clear of any ethanol as it evaporates quickly and leaves a residue.....and probably quicker from the heat in your neck of the woods....maybe run some seafoam regularly to help keep the carbs clean.....or fuel borne carb cleaner.....

Crazy that for 3 yrs it ran trouble free only to have it start acting up now.....it has to be fuel related.....

At one time there were so many V-Stars around here they could have started their own club.....they were a very popular bike.
 
I got my carbon wrapped chin spoiler on, the carbon center tank and bezel added and finally got the keyless gascap and took advantage of a great midwest November day.

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I’ve been chasing a tiny lil leak on my Honda originating from the counter sprocket area. The worst case scenario would be the shaft seal which is unlikely considering the low mileage. The other CBXs I had never had such a leak. I’ve never had an impact wrench so I’ve never personally removed any front sprocket. After discussing the issue with some CBX engine gurus on their website it turns out there’s a small O ring under the sprocket bolt. The sprocket was changed just before I got it along with other necessities after bringing it out of storage. Whoever did change it must not have known about the O ring and it got all smashed up somehow as well. The pic is what it looked like. No wonder eh? :laugh:
 
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I’ve been chasing a tiny lil leak on my Honda originating from the counter sprocket area. The worst case scenario would be the shaft seal which is unlikely considering the low mileage. The other CBXs I had never had such a leak. I’ve never had an impact wrench so I’ve never personally removed any front sprocket. After discussing the issue with some CBX engine gurus on their website it turns out there’s a small O ring under the sprocket bolt. The sprocket was changed just before I got it along with other necessities after bringing it out of storage. Whoever did change it must not have known about the O ring and it got all smashed up somehow as well. The pic is what it looked like. No wonder eh? :laugh:

If you end up needing to remove the sprocket, a half inch drive breaker-bar, with a piece of pipe about 2'-3' long slid over the handle(if needed for extra leverage) works well.
Sit on the bike, transmission in neutral(I leave them on the kickstand and hold the rear brake so the bike doesn't move at all) and the sprocket nut should break free without too much effort, I have done quite a few this way over the years...I've only had a couple where I had to use an impact to get them off, as someone had previously overtightened them.
 
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