What's some good mods for roll racing?
- Thread starter Busa3Bro
- Start date
Sinister#4
Registered
giant turbo 
Busa3Bro
Registered
Yes, I've been following his build, I just don't know if I'm at the turbo stage yet lol.
Busa3Bro
Registered
One day lol.giant turbo
turbo, and maxxecu for rolling antilag/rolling launch feature is my vote 
Winner!
lmao
Which brings up an old question;
How do you make a small fortune in racing?
...start out with a big one!
Busa3Bro
Registered
One day you'll have a maxx for me.turbo, and maxxecu for rolling antilag/rolling launch feature is my vote
SS4Luck
Registered
Anything that makes the bike weigh as little as possible. A stock motor, stock tune, stock exhaust 430 lb bike will beat a full bolt on no weight reduction bike.
Heres the most important ones if you're going serious 1st gear roll racing:
New swingarm to give you 62-64" of wheel base
Penske/M2 shock setup for the wheelbase, ride height and rider/bike weight
Cut/Revalved/Worked forks as low as you're comfortably willing to go, with a strap too
Q4/Q5/Shinko rear tire
Delete everything possible that you don't need to make the bike go. Single front brake, rear brake delete, emissions delete, passenger pegs, extra fasteners. Theres probably more than 45 lbs of free/cheap weight to remove from these bike was well as another 15-25 of expensive weight to remove (headlight and taillight, ti fasteners etc)
Seat time
A slower bike that plants the hit at 40 and isn't drama through 1-3, wont get caught by a faster bike.
Heres the most important ones if you're going serious 1st gear roll racing:
New swingarm to give you 62-64" of wheel base
Penske/M2 shock setup for the wheelbase, ride height and rider/bike weight
Cut/Revalved/Worked forks as low as you're comfortably willing to go, with a strap too
Q4/Q5/Shinko rear tire
Delete everything possible that you don't need to make the bike go. Single front brake, rear brake delete, emissions delete, passenger pegs, extra fasteners. Theres probably more than 45 lbs of free/cheap weight to remove from these bike was well as another 15-25 of expensive weight to remove (headlight and taillight, ti fasteners etc)
Seat time
A slower bike that plants the hit at 40 and isn't drama through 1-3, wont get caught by a faster bike.
pcs
Registered
good and cheap usually don’t go together but you can help us help u with a bit more info. what mods do u have? your budget? are u racing with just friends or are you serious racer? is this a roll race only bike or will it also be used for general riding? u racing on a nice flat stretch of road or are u dealing with pot holes, etc?
1 front caliper on a bike ridden on the road is a really bad idea from a survivability standpoint IMHO (actually IMO, not humble on this one). I get if you are regularly roll racing you are comfortable with excessive risk, but there is a point when the cost-benefit ratio goes off the scale.
OK, that's my public service announcement, haha.
You'll run out of money trying to keep up with the joneses..But remove all the weight you are comfortable removing, then remove some more. Practice, practice, practice. Like SS4Luck said, if you can get the hit and have no wheelies or drama, it'll be hard to catch. Also depends the length of the race.
Tons of it depends on the setup of the bike. I was spinning and pulling the front end at 100mph before I had EJR setup my bike. No spinning or wheelies anymore. Makes a huge difference. Watch some of his old races on TBN vs anyone and you'll see how his bike just leaves without any disruption to the bike. Gone. That is a key to winning more than power I would say. Most of the liter bikes all make similar power, so you win by having the suspension setup properly and losing weight. In short races these are the most important in my view.
Tons of it depends on the setup of the bike. I was spinning and pulling the front end at 100mph before I had EJR setup my bike. No spinning or wheelies anymore. Makes a huge difference. Watch some of his old races on TBN vs anyone and you'll see how his bike just leaves without any disruption to the bike. Gone. That is a key to winning more than power I would say. Most of the liter bikes all make similar power, so you win by having the suspension setup properly and losing weight. In short races these are the most important in my view.
SS4Luck
Registered
You're not entirely wrong.
1 rotor changes the way you have to ride some of the time. But a single galfer with good pads and a properly serviced brake system stop as good as the stock squisky setup IMO. If I used my bike as a form of transportation I would be singing a different song but my bike is just for roll racing. The single rotor still has enough stopping power to pick up the back wheel if you just grab all the front brake and pray for the best.
Its not a mod I tell people specifically to do, and I went back and forth with it for a while with a few different members on here in posts even, but I got to the point I needed the 10 lbs gone and made the decision too. Having a bike that is 80-100 lbs less than what everyone else is riding helps make the brake issue not as big of a deal as well.
Fair enough. I just didn't want a novice thinking riding on one caliper was a good idea generally. I get when you race you do what you have to. Just be careful out there man!
SS4Luck
Registered
I havent been as active with my build lately, most of the dudes in the Gen 3 section know my bike and know that I was bought and is being built for one purpose and I advertise most of it with the *im a moron don't do what I do if you don't understand everything your doing* type of disclaimers. As it sits my single rotor is a Galfer wave rotor with HH pads and a Brembo RCS master. I would never ride single front stock brake setup, they weren't confidence insirpiring to me when there was still 3 brakes on the bike let alone just the front 2 lol.
When my turbo goes on in Nov ill be adding a second Galfer front as well as Im already planning on significantly more 180+ stops vs 150 like it gets now. One thing I have noticed in normal street cruising there isn't much difference in stopping reliability or power/distance until you have to do a few back to back without the brakes having time to cool down enough which is not something I expected.
Much less thermal mass to absorb the kinetic energy.
SS4Luck
Registered
Yeah I understand why at that point. I really was just amazed that was really the only place I noticed any real decrease in performance.
Similar threads
