Those dyno sheets are in 2 different correction factors. Typically under normalish weather conditions, this is how it goes.... IF a bike makes SAE (old) 200 wHP : then it will make: 202 SAE (new) , 206 STD, 210 DIN. Less common is ISO (which I use on my dyno) and it would report 204. Seems our friends oversees using the DIN more common to see higher numbers?
I didn't know they had so many variations,always thought it was pretty much either SAE or STD(thanks for the info. bro).On the day I took mine in everything was pretty much optimum;fresh Brocks Alisyn 10w30 oil with his Petron Plus additive,had just ran a can of his Wynn's Power Charge with 2 gals. of Shell 89 through the system the day before,spent about an hour lubing and adjusting my chain trying to get the rear wheel perfectly aligned so there wouldn't be any side drag on the plates(they said just the rear wheel not being aligned and a dirty,unlubed chain could cost 2-3 hp),etc..(and already had Brocks Short Meg exhaust and PC III which Johnny Cheese had reflashed,raised the rpms by 500,etc.).Temp. was around 80 degrees with 30% humidity and their shop is at sea level so DA was ideal.First run was the 187/111 and the second was after new Iridium plugs,all short stacks from Schnitz,a Sprint air filter,and their mapping(left it there for an entire day and picked it up the next).A very reputable shop mostly dealing with race bikes and Richard Stanboli's been around for a long time so knew I'd be in good hands.On the way home the bike felt totally different,ran much smoother and my butt dyno could feel the difference.Picked up 10 hp with the short stacks,Sprint air filter,and a correct tune so was well worth the $350 they charged to me.
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