would it work HEAD CAM COMBO advice!!!

And jus for the record...
Currently by bike is flashed with a hindle full exhaust, all 4 short/cut stacks, small box mod, no air fliter, ram air screens removed, pair valve block, so its gonna get as much air as she can get in stock form...

I guess what would make a more realistic comparison to a 1k would be to jus use dual intake cams and 70pnd cam springs and go from there if i jus wanted to see a more true realistic number for comparison between the two

But why not go as big a lift in cam as i can go in stock bottom end form while im arleady there with the heads off... Im being told and seen a few threads abt the gen 1 busa heads flows pretty good in factory form, so port and polish will be over looked... But then again, im already there soooooo

Ugh...
 
Mathewrussell52 said:
Gotta factor in piston speed that is a big factor.
Click to expand...
Piston speed would go along with cam speed wouldnt it i mean idk im jus askin questions thats why im here

Can it be agreed that the only question u wont get answered no matter how stupid it is is a question not asked....am i right lol idk lol
 
If valve float was the issue with going past stock redline, i wonder how well the bottom end can handle 12k rpm???

I wonder how well jus doing 70pnd cam springs would do with stock intake and exhaust cams, stock throttle bodies and untouched head???

So i guess im the only one who likes to look at other little simple off the wall performance than jus following the normal script of things???

Whats wrong with trying to make the best of what u have??? Isnt that where hot rodding was started from lol??? I mean anyone can jus throw money at something and get 1000hp and 300mph if they wanted to!!! What abt the broke guys like me who still wanna go kinda fast lol
 
AsleepAtTheTree said:
If valve float was the issue with going past stock redline, i wonder how well the bottom end can handle 12k rpm???

I wonder how well jus doing 70pnd cam springs would do with stock intake and exhaust cams, stock throttle bodies and untouched head???

So i guess im the only one who likes to look at other little simple off the wall performance than jus following the normal script of things???

Whats wrong with trying to make the best of what u have??? Isnt that where hot rodding was started from lol??? I mean anyone can jus throw money at something and get 1000hp and 300mph if they wanted to!!! What abt the broke guys like me who still wanna go kinda fast lol
Click to expand...
If you are on a budget that's the time to stay with the tried and true. That way you know what it will cost and what you will get. Experimenting in the engine can be expensive. One mistake and you have nothing and a $2-5K rebuild. The Busa motor is not designed as a screamer motor. It's about torque and that is necessary to move the extra weight (vs a 1K). As has been pointed out, you can get over the 200 mph mark with just sprockets.

BTW I have been riding a stock internals 09 with the redline set up to 11K for 8 years. 12K doesn't seem like too big a deal?
 
AsleepAtTheTree said:
So do u think it should be considered that difficult Jeremy??? I mean if its jus pulling the heads and breaking it down and reassemble the proper way with proper parts i dont see it being that bad???

I watched a few videos of guys breaking a head down in no time, well, not including engine removal!

So u dont think it would make an interesting project to see what the ole busa can do at similar rpms as a 1k with the busa 299cc more of air capability???

I mean to say "lets get as much hp as we can" this wouldnt be the way to do it, but i guess its more curiosity to me than anything

I know a well tuned newer 1k with jus a flash n tune is capable of 190+hp id imagine i can see 200 plus hp with 299 more cc's with a little home done head work if i can pull it off
Click to expand...
Is it difficult? I don't know, I've never done a Busa head. I do know that degreeing the cams has catastrophic terminal consequences if done wrong. By difficult I meant that there are easier and proven ways to make more power for less money. You said you wanted to do it the difficult and different way, and I applaud your dedication, but difficult and different often end up expensive, and if beating 1k's is your goal there are cheaper and easier ways. That's all I was saying.
 
AsleepAtTheTree said:
So basically with this statement ur either saying im lazy lol or this is kinda pointless lol

Either way i jus cant git rid of the idea and by it seeming so simple to do....
Click to expand...
202mphbusa said:
I have 0% problem with some one who wants to "try something"
Lotsa pics and keep us informed
Click to expand...
So as I'm clear, I think it's cool as well. I'm just providing some of the advice you asked for. Not to be negative, but realistic.
 
Thanks guys i really appreciate all the info here

I didnt want to come off as being a butthole tho, that definitely wasnt my intention!!! So if i offended anyone with how i may of worded things i apologize!!!

That being said, so it seems as tho what i may be asking for is really more trouble than whats practical or isnt really worth it, when as mentioned, theres more proven ways to go than risking a rebuild

All the ADVICE i was looking for while still getting a few tips even if i still wanted to give it a try!!!

Again...thanks guys, im still on the fence tho cause i jus cant get those extra 1000rpm's outta my head

If a stg1 rcc turbo can net 250+hp at 11rpm without even opening the valve covers, what could those extra 1000rpm bring abt...if it can hold it???

See...my mind jus keeps going deeper...
Deeper than my pockets allow for sure lol lol lol
 
AsleepAtTheTree said:
Thanks guys i really appreciate all the info here

I didnt want to come off as being a butthole tho, that definitely wasnt my intention!!! So if i offended anyone with how i may of worded things i apologize!!!

That being said, so it seems as tho what i may be asking for is really more trouble than whats practical or isnt really worth it, when as mentioned, theres more proven ways to go than risking a rebuild

All the ADVICE i was looking for while still getting a few tips even if i still wanted to give it a try!!!

Again...thanks guys, im still on the fence tho cause i jus cant get those extra 1000rpm's outta my head

If a stg1 rcc turbo can net 250+hp at 11rpm without even opening the valve covers, what could those extra 1000rpm bring abt...if it can hold it???

See...my mind jus keeps going deeper...
Deeper than my pockets allow for sure lol lol lol
Click to expand...
Hi. If you push the limit of any part it will break. The weakest part will break. For any turbo you should build the motor rods and pistons at least. No matter what HP goal you set you will want more. [ I know I wanted 650, but no that would not do what I wanted so now its 800 to 1000] Set a goal and try to stick with it. I am 70 yrs old I have been racing for 54 years as driver and crew for some. I have been involved in setting 54 NHRA records and 2 nation event win in super stock class See my thread my very slow build. The motor is built for 13500 RPM I could use a stock crank, but what do you think will happen to the crank? That is why I will buy a Marine billet crank. It is not cheep, but it will do what I need it to do.
 
AsleepAtTheTree said:
Thanks guys i really appreciate all the info here

I didnt want to come off as being a butthole tho, that definitely wasnt my intention!!! So if i offended anyone with how i may of worded things i apologize!!!

That being said, so it seems as tho what i may be asking for is really more trouble than whats practical or isnt really worth it, when as mentioned, theres more proven ways to go than risking a rebuild

All the ADVICE i was looking for while still getting a few tips even if i still wanted to give it a try!!!

Again...thanks guys, im still on the fence tho cause i jus cant get those extra 1000rpm's outta my head

If a stg1 rcc turbo can net 250+hp at 11rpm without even opening the valve covers, what could those extra 1000rpm bring abt...if it can hold it???

See...my mind jus keeps going deeper...
Deeper than my pockets allow for sure lol lol lol
Click to expand...

RCC stage 1 or all motor or motor and spray
motor will only pull as high as cams and head and cam timing will allow
one thing that always surprised me when I went turbo was I was expecting "more top end rush"

But why do I need a "top end rush" when I can seriously roll down the road at 150 MPH punch it at 6k push my high beam and BOOM front end lifts till I hit the limiter or roll out of it
"static" boost level the motor starts to "not pull as hard up top" as It gets closer to redline
But then Nitrous has a HUGE torque spike that lessens as rpm increase also

DaveO set my original reflashed ECU to 13,600 or something rediculous like that
his statment to me was " I have seen you ride, a little over rev could save you a race, even tho I figure you will never see it" FWIW even with stupid compression HUGE ported head and .401/.395 cams (Not big)
I was still shifting at 11,400

most important thing about how high you rev is............................................................... drum roll please......................................................................................................
Where your HP/Peak torque RPM's come in
what good it reving it higher, if when you shift it is already beyond peak/HP/torque
seems like you are looking for a two strokish top end LUNGE
 
This is a street gen 1 budget build i did that was intentionally set up to make power band in the lower ranges. No need to shift over 10.5k on this one and not a big $ build. Std bore

tonyspecialdynosheet.jpg
 
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