Kevin Jones
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For the cost of a crank for a 1507, might as well go the boosted route. Just my opinion.
would it work HEAD CAM COMBO advice!!!
- Thread starter AsleepAtTheTree
- Start date
Kevin Jones
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That's billet, not a weld up
michael parris heuberger
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Hi. I agree, but for a street racer all NA does not look fast. And hide the NOS.
Kevin Jones
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Sprayed 1ks are hard to beat man are they hard to beat unprepped.
michael parris heuberger
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Hi. Has anyone sent head or called for info to make a better busa head Dart,AFR,Brodix or RHS. If there is any interest could find out how many heads that would need to be sold to make a profit. I had a small block chevy 400 .060 over with a 327 stroke crank. I think it was a 353 ci or 358ci. with Brodix heads and manafold with a holly 600 CFM moded 2 barrel carb with NOS [hidden] After the races I would open the hood [ see a 350 with a 2 barrel ]It had pistons and a roller cam.
john blaze
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Hide it like so...... 
202mphbusa
Registered
apples to oranges probably some of the coolest times on my busa WAAAYYY back in 2005ish 1397 14-1 comp I thought why not try a OEM airbox flapper and all under 4k WOW
that's why I am VERY slowly building a 83mm +5mm stroke turbo motor
taking forever
I get distracted sometimes motorcycles........shooting,,,,,,running...….cycling.....hiking..motorcycles...shooting while XC skiing
Mr Brown
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There, I fixed it for you....
AsleepAtTheTree
Registered
Im headed to some 1/8 mile unprep, flashlight man, old worn out track called "street racing haven" in leakseville al in the morn, bout an hr drive to play wit a BUNCH of newer 1k's, me and my buddy on is 14r meeting a couple with 07/08 gsxr 1k's to make a few guys feel silly going back home lololol
Im at abt 67inches, 15/45, shinko hook up leaving at abt 6k pretty much dumping the clutch, end track at abt top of 4th, 280 fully dressed....hope we do well
Mr Brown
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Keep us posted...
Kevin Jones
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I been beating up the street with my 60" 1441. Man its a struggle, I can do a mediocre 60 but as soon as I get into second up about 9k at I dunno 100' out, its spin city tachd, into 3rd tachd instantly, 4th n that's only an 1/8th at 17/40. I think I gotta go 18/40 an shorten it up some or go with a smaller motor. Play with the shock, tire pressure, streets is a whole nother game. Not even any pimp juice or anything. 100' out is my issue. Edit:165 suited
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AsleepAtTheTree
Registered
Well the outcome wasnt too bad for what me and the boys had compared to the comp, all motor noprep street shootout
Me n my buddy on his 14r entered the heavy weight shoot out both our bikes basically stock, he finished 3rd i finished 4th outta 10 bikes, 1st place went to a 3mil 2017 gsxr1000, 2nd place went to a built 1441 gen2 busa
My third buddy, smallest of us all, bout 160 soak n wet lol came in second in the all out jockey shootout on his basically stock 07 gsxr1000
Had another buddy who had an 08 gsxr1000 but was having motor problems after first pass so he was out pretty much all day
But boy did we have fun, after all the class races was done of course it was some grudge racing so we came back home all together as a group wit about a grand more than we came with...yeeee lol
Only advantage i had with my baby busa against the rest, well if you wanna call it an advantage, is consistency, NOBODY, i mean NOBODY 225 or better could leave wit me out the gate that day, if i lost it was because they out motored me end track, but id 60ft the hell outta them boys only bc i practice soooo much with the little that i have....yeeee lol
So its to the drawing board and planning for us all on where we wanna continue to improve on from here..yeeee lmao
Turbo or continued all motor for me...uuuuuugghhh here we go lmao
Me n my buddy on his 14r entered the heavy weight shoot out both our bikes basically stock, he finished 3rd i finished 4th outta 10 bikes, 1st place went to a 3mil 2017 gsxr1000, 2nd place went to a built 1441 gen2 busa
My third buddy, smallest of us all, bout 160 soak n wet lol came in second in the all out jockey shootout on his basically stock 07 gsxr1000
Had another buddy who had an 08 gsxr1000 but was having motor problems after first pass so he was out pretty much all day
But boy did we have fun, after all the class races was done of course it was some grudge racing so we came back home all together as a group wit about a grand more than we came with...yeeee lol
Only advantage i had with my baby busa against the rest, well if you wanna call it an advantage, is consistency, NOBODY, i mean NOBODY 225 or better could leave wit me out the gate that day, if i lost it was because they out motored me end track, but id 60ft the hell outta them boys only bc i practice soooo much with the little that i have....yeeee lol
So its to the drawing board and planning for us all on where we wanna continue to improve on from here..yeeee lmao
Turbo or continued all motor for me...uuuuuugghhh here we go lmao
AsleepAtTheTree
Registered
my buddy on his 14r was having the same problem until we went m2 revalved shock and the new dunlop dragmax tire, i dial it in for him best i could and no wheelie or spinning problems anymore
But his bike isnt built, stock motor, flashed n tuned on mr12 with a brocks full alien head and sprint filter
Kevin Jones
Registered
I have a gen 1 14 with a gen 2 motor, its 70" long and useless on the street but a great bracket bike. One of my buddies has 2 of em, goes to the track 2x per week prolly for years. 220lbs and he can 1.31 60' all day. After he and I made a pass together on the return road we switched bikes just to see. I have NEVER felt anything so smooth as the clutch on his. His bike 70" as well but he had the clutch set up so so smooth. I mean it was nothing like my 14 (which I later pulled a ton of static out, had 3 brocks springs n spacers) but that's a stock motor. He couldn't launch my 1441. We ended up pulling static out, however, on a built motor bike, if you are short wheelbase, you are just a compromise. My 60 got better but the big end cost me a set of plates. smh. I think I am going to the std bore motor with the no prep bike. Lot less torque but still plenty and I think its going to be less work trying to dial it in, I don't know. PITA but that's racing. At the end of the day, what can you put to the ground to get A to B.
Very simple, because everyone wants to sound intelligent.
I've built scrap yard motors that run strong, its all about understanding the end result and reverse engineer.
Camshaft duration is more effective than camshaft lift, when it comes do moving your peak horsepower to the right. Since duration is a function of time. Which by the way is how newer bikes are able to muster out more power, nothing voodoo about it. Injectors, ecus, spark plugs, pistons, rods, fuel and air are dumb. We tell it what to do.
If the desired effect is to move peak power, and its a great idea i may add.
These are the specific things;
1.Increase duration on the intake camshaft.
2.shorten your throttlebodies accordingly to the increase in peak rpm. Velocity stacks wont suffice.
DO NOT DO NOT! Change the taper on the throttlebodies, and i know most do, and they dont have a clue as to why it even works.
You want to maintain a small intake port tract included angle to keep a strong pulse which will yield better filling.
Peak power will look great, but everything under will be a dog, including shift recovery. Dragracing is all about acceleration. Simple way of looking at it, you have to get to 10k RPM before you get to 11k RPM. All this may seem intuitive, but most get lost with dyno fights. Lmao
The reason why overboring works is because it tricks the port into thinking its shorter, without you actually shortening it, and the adverse effect is you screwed up your pressure recovery. VERY BaD.
3. Compression and lots of it will be your friend with increased duration.
4.DO NOT port the exhaust, its a mistake, if anything shrink the bowl in the exhaust in the roof area. You can increase lift, but not increase duration, big no no. I would have to get a case of beer and explain or do your own homework.
On some motors, i shrink the exhaust valve and port, along with duration while maintainig lift, and increase the intake.
5.Unshroud only the intake side of the head.
6. Lay back a bit of the walls on the piston reliefs Only the intake.
7.knock off any sharp corners, including the spark plugs. SOME wonder why their spark plug ends burn off. Jee Buck-wheat what do you think heat does to sharp corners, you failed to remember the plug lives in the same place you were knocking off edges. They are not immuned from heat.
This is all common sense, just most regirgitate whats been said since 1999 and dont think.
8.Tighten up squish, i go as tight as 0.031", on stock rods, stock rpm, but if grab something stronger you can go tighter, bare in mind you increase RPM you'll have to back off. You add heavy pistons like those Bricks from JE, you have to back off. Everything is trying to make u-turns at high speeds bear that in mind.
9. Intake port you can fill the bowl a bit on the roof, reshape the guides. This is will extend power past peak. Your port profile, such as valve size and MCSA are the 2 most important paremeters to determine where you want peak power, you can have increased duration, but if these 2 paremeters are not in sync, you'll be pissing in the wind.
Since busa ports are indeed big ports already, they'll easily support your goals.
I look at those 2 parameters and the converging and diverging angles, and lastly cc the bowl for a desired size since its the front line reservoir.
I have alot more tricks/techniques but those will stay in the back pocket.
But that will set you in the rite direction. Hope its of help
Cheers
I've built scrap yard motors that run strong, its all about understanding the end result and reverse engineer.
Camshaft duration is more effective than camshaft lift, when it comes do moving your peak horsepower to the right. Since duration is a function of time. Which by the way is how newer bikes are able to muster out more power, nothing voodoo about it. Injectors, ecus, spark plugs, pistons, rods, fuel and air are dumb. We tell it what to do.
If the desired effect is to move peak power, and its a great idea i may add.
These are the specific things;
1.Increase duration on the intake camshaft.
2.shorten your throttlebodies accordingly to the increase in peak rpm. Velocity stacks wont suffice.
DO NOT DO NOT! Change the taper on the throttlebodies, and i know most do, and they dont have a clue as to why it even works.
You want to maintain a small intake port tract included angle to keep a strong pulse which will yield better filling.
Peak power will look great, but everything under will be a dog, including shift recovery. Dragracing is all about acceleration. Simple way of looking at it, you have to get to 10k RPM before you get to 11k RPM. All this may seem intuitive, but most get lost with dyno fights. Lmao
The reason why overboring works is because it tricks the port into thinking its shorter, without you actually shortening it, and the adverse effect is you screwed up your pressure recovery. VERY BaD.
3. Compression and lots of it will be your friend with increased duration.
4.DO NOT port the exhaust, its a mistake, if anything shrink the bowl in the exhaust in the roof area. You can increase lift, but not increase duration, big no no. I would have to get a case of beer and explain or do your own homework.
On some motors, i shrink the exhaust valve and port, along with duration while maintainig lift, and increase the intake.
5.Unshroud only the intake side of the head.
6. Lay back a bit of the walls on the piston reliefs Only the intake.
7.knock off any sharp corners, including the spark plugs. SOME wonder why their spark plug ends burn off. Jee Buck-wheat what do you think heat does to sharp corners, you failed to remember the plug lives in the same place you were knocking off edges. They are not immuned from heat.
This is all common sense, just most regirgitate whats been said since 1999 and dont think.
8.Tighten up squish, i go as tight as 0.031", on stock rods, stock rpm, but if grab something stronger you can go tighter, bare in mind you increase RPM you'll have to back off. You add heavy pistons like those Bricks from JE, you have to back off. Everything is trying to make u-turns at high speeds bear that in mind.
9. Intake port you can fill the bowl a bit on the roof, reshape the guides. This is will extend power past peak. Your port profile, such as valve size and MCSA are the 2 most important paremeters to determine where you want peak power, you can have increased duration, but if these 2 paremeters are not in sync, you'll be pissing in the wind.
Since busa ports are indeed big ports already, they'll easily support your goals.
I look at those 2 parameters and the converging and diverging angles, and lastly cc the bowl for a desired size since its the front line reservoir.
I have alot more tricks/techniques but those will stay in the back pocket.
But that will set you in the rite direction. Hope its of help
Cheers
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Kevin Jones
Registered
I just saw this. I once bought a gen 1 head that had an epoxied intake and light port and smaller exh valves. No porting on the exh. I thought it was the strangest thing. I actually showed Bill at Porttech and he thought it might have been a circle track motor that stayed in a certain rpm range to put the torque right there. The points you bring up remind me of that head. I never tried it like that and now i wish i had although without a flowbench i doubt the data collected would have meant much to me or if i could even make conditions that would show anything.
Edit: and I hate JE pistons as well
Edit: and I hate JE pistons as well
