Pm him if you wanna debate things that don't pertain please. He has explained his point twice and has personal experience with a voltmeter while you have a youtube video and a book.
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XTRE....Good or Bad ?
- Thread starter Blanca BusaLess
- Start date
Lol sorry for post jack ill be quiet now 
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............... it's a computer that reads data input and controls components according to the input it has recieved.
So in the end did we decide that XTREs are good or bad ?
I'm so confused !
Or like the Dems and Repubs I think we are ever farther apart !
Seems like I'm good at starting arguements ? ???
I'm so confused ! Or like the Dems and Repubs I think we are ever farther apart !
Seems like I'm good at starting arguements ? ???
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This is what's so great about the search function. You guys could have read the other 317 arguments on this subject. 
Yep tre always brings arguments lol
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You know I did read quite a few and unfortunately most wound up like this one, HIJACKED ! Also those posts are old and I was looking for recent exp from folks.
Hard to get just simple good info regarding real world experience with these things and not just opinions and lectures and I mean no offense to anyone.
I simply wanted to know what folks thought about them and their exp.
Hard to get just simple good info regarding real world experience with these things and not just opinions and lectures and I mean no offense to anyone.
I simply wanted to know what folks thought about them and their exp.
Save your money towards another mod imo
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And I sell the xtres lol, but don't buy one
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TruWrecks
Banned
So in the end did we decide that XTREs are good or bad ?
Or like the Dems and Repubs I think we are ever farther apart !
Seems like I'm good at starting arguements ? ???
If you like the way your bike is running with it, keep it. Nobody else's opinion matters because it's not their bike.
Blanca, no matter who makes the unit, each aftermarket rig up on the wire, defaults to the same limp. Did you notice how everyone says they feel this bottom boost to the bike? All that happened in a reference of time, is move a restrictor plate to open a little faster.
So what you really felt was the faster air speed moving into the cylinder. The bike moved better with the treffect, and the PC had 10 mpg slugging alone in rich limp.
You displace more fuel to make more HP. And there is so much window before you foul plugs. Lean is mean. With the TRE off, she is more lean. With the TREffect, the limp is rich but not sooty plug rich, but enough to smooth out the leaner ride.
Now, if you take away the sub/gate system altogether, you become accustom to the faster speed of air being controlled by one throttle plate, and not restricted by a flapper holding back the air flow entering sooner.
Here is where you like it or hate it. The controversy being the, "twitch" or more a ragged edge throttle apply. Some can't handle the air jerking of the bike moving air a lot faster into the cylinder. Think about it.
Others, like me, can feel the performance sort of sign off, where 'lean is mean' means something. The more method modes I throw at the bike, the more it signs off of that better stock tune in the analog.
Like someone said; it's your bike. Ride the limp if it feels good. That limp, since 1999, never hurt a bike yet = "Fail-Safe"... Get it?
So what you really felt was the faster air speed moving into the cylinder. The bike moved better with the treffect, and the PC had 10 mpg slugging alone in rich limp.
You displace more fuel to make more HP. And there is so much window before you foul plugs. Lean is mean. With the TRE off, she is more lean. With the TREffect, the limp is rich but not sooty plug rich, but enough to smooth out the leaner ride.
Now, if you take away the sub/gate system altogether, you become accustom to the faster speed of air being controlled by one throttle plate, and not restricted by a flapper holding back the air flow entering sooner.
Here is where you like it or hate it. The controversy being the, "twitch" or more a ragged edge throttle apply. Some can't handle the air jerking of the bike moving air a lot faster into the cylinder. Think about it.
Others, like me, can feel the performance sort of sign off, where 'lean is mean' means something. The more method modes I throw at the bike, the more it signs off of that better stock tune in the analog.
Like someone said; it's your bike. Ride the limp if it feels good. That limp, since 1999, never hurt a bike yet = "Fail-Safe"... Get it?
This is what's so great about the search function. You guys could have read the other 317 arguments on this subject.
No doubt....
All I know is I picked up 22hp and only gave up 10 miles per tank ! I don't know many that would say no to that ? I don't think all of it came from just the Brocks and pcV. The shop that did the work recommended it because they have installed and tuned wth them and have seen 6-8hp gain just from this gizmo. Combined they have more than 40yrs of racing Suzis only so I was inclined to believe them. I'm in love with how she is now. A complete animal she is ! Much more useable power delivery is how it feels . Stronger but smooooooooth !
I think I mentioned I have first gen (1999-2001) FSM. I do not know the Suz product specifically. In the generic, yes. Either way, there is an air gate that has been usurped.
I'm not going to keep up with this kind of trivia between bikes. I need guys like you to correct me, Matt. Thanks. It's like that mode switch. It's just programmed to open the air restrictor faster. This lets the air fill that same void faster.
It's the same concept Blanca is feeling. Faster air speed max'd out. It's a preset HP/Torque setting. You just do not get that down the bottom. The design is to keep most from flipping the bike over if they took a handful.
10 more mpg of low HP input for peak performance and peak mpg is out the window. You remove the air cleaner and exhaust, let the bike rev on a dyno; all that unrestricted air speed will show you how much is there.
With the drag of the a/c element and the stock pipes being clogged for sound, Blanca is just feeling the uncorked power with a pinch to the hack, a dab of fuel to smooth out the bumps that a leaner fuel set, that more or less, heightens what is hidden behind door #1 = A flapper system, be it an air cleaner door or a second set of throttle plates behind the main throttle plate.
Just your classic speed event is all.
I could be wrong but I don't think there is any air motion control in the gen2. The timing retard has been on every ecu bike I can think. My srad had it and it was a 97. Work somewhat like an electronic advance distributor. Its only retarded for driveability under low load low speed and goes away in high rpm high loads. That's what the tre is for. Do away with the programming timing retards in the lower gears. And 5th is high enough to not lean the bike at wot top speed. In theory any way. Also 5th does not have a speed limiter for the reason that a bike shouldn't be able to run 186 in 5th.
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I could be wrong but I don't think they would sell the world's fastest bike with direct air speed. For one, the linear air restrictor I know, has a subthrottle system. I would think, and I could be wrong, but if you have a GPS, you might have a loop with an 'air dragger' of some kind.
First gen 14's were slugs, you could teach someone how to ride a bike; it could not get out of it's own way. Right there tells you the sub moved slower than your wrist. Once you removed the plates, the bike unloaded the bottom end that was already in the partial preset stage. On the exhaust end is a different stage of the preset is to let the engine spin with less air clogging up the works.
There is this certain window of timing. And what determines that timing >>> Is crank speed. If say the air moves faster with the gate opening quicker, then the timing follows suit. It's like a mechanical vacuum advance, only in an electronic swing.
I ran two cameras on a test run. One was pointed inside the advancer or tone wheel pickup; red bar is a camera mount. Cut out an engine cover and made a timing window out of it. The other camera was mounted on my helmet so as to scream into the mic, that I was throwing codes on a countdown, timing in the toggle hacks.
No matter the toggle hit, the advance swing constantly to the same position, no matter the gear; no matter the rpm. Timing retard means to me, a speed event so as to keep up with the design of the flapper/subthrottle, via, electronic vacuum advance.
I could be wrong, but if I watch the video of the subthrottle opening sooner on the hack to the wire, I'm going to guess the design says to follow that opening as if to mimic the vacuum advance on the suck of the faster spinning crank. You fed it more air in a faster way; so we then match the spark in proportion to the speed of the crank.
So, what I can do is eliminate the analog, throw the 'Method' and I am still running the same exact event as you all TRE'd up. Though we may have different brands, we run the generic same codes, same method, same 1Atmo calc in the ECU.
And 5th is high enough to slam into the rev limiter you do not move that GPS wire out of the loop. Method defaults to hard cuts. In other words... "Wee dunt need no stink inn speed/gps/iap/aps/ats/wts/tps/actuator/gate/sub sense sore badge is!"
I removed the actuator and sub-guts, to bring all the air speed behind one throttle plate. I throw a code, I now can feel that TRE limp, so it is not masked; like Blanca cannot tell what mod is winning the grunt under his seat.
I don't think I'm wrong, but I think the air speed of the limp
is goosing your swing steer muscle, Blanca.
Think watt it's doing to my azz puck her.
First gen 14's were slugs, you could teach someone how to ride a bike; it could not get out of it's own way. Right there tells you the sub moved slower than your wrist. Once you removed the plates, the bike unloaded the bottom end that was already in the partial preset stage. On the exhaust end is a different stage of the preset is to let the engine spin with less air clogging up the works.
There is this certain window of timing. And what determines that timing >>> Is crank speed. If say the air moves faster with the gate opening quicker, then the timing follows suit. It's like a mechanical vacuum advance, only in an electronic swing.
I ran two cameras on a test run. One was pointed inside the advancer or tone wheel pickup; red bar is a camera mount. Cut out an engine cover and made a timing window out of it. The other camera was mounted on my helmet so as to scream into the mic, that I was throwing codes on a countdown, timing in the toggle hacks.
No matter the toggle hit, the advance swing constantly to the same position, no matter the gear; no matter the rpm. Timing retard means to me, a speed event so as to keep up with the design of the flapper/subthrottle, via, electronic vacuum advance.
I could be wrong, but if I watch the video of the subthrottle opening sooner on the hack to the wire, I'm going to guess the design says to follow that opening as if to mimic the vacuum advance on the suck of the faster spinning crank. You fed it more air in a faster way; so we then match the spark in proportion to the speed of the crank.
So, what I can do is eliminate the analog, throw the 'Method' and I am still running the same exact event as you all TRE'd up. Though we may have different brands, we run the generic same codes, same method, same 1Atmo calc in the ECU.
And 5th is high enough to slam into the rev limiter you do not move that GPS wire out of the loop. Method defaults to hard cuts. In other words... "Wee dunt need no stink inn speed/gps/iap/aps/ats/wts/tps/actuator/gate/sub sense sore badge is!"
I removed the actuator and sub-guts, to bring all the air speed behind one throttle plate. I throw a code, I now can feel that TRE limp, so it is not masked; like Blanca cannot tell what mod is winning the grunt under his seat.
I don't think I'm wrong, but I think the air speed of the limp
is goosing your swing steer muscle, Blanca. Think watt it's doing to my azz puck her.
This is partially on topic, and it was bothering me that someone was giving mis-information about a hayabusa on a Hayabusa forum.
You can clearly see that voltage increases from 1st to 6th gear, and the voltage floats up to 5v when the bike is in neutral or between gears.
And for sure, the reason for a gps sensor is for different fuel maps, timing maps etc. The ecu's have been hacked and its clear there are different tables for different gears. And now that i know all i need is a crank signal and an ecu i am going to cut all the extra sensors off my bike and sell them on ebay
approximate resistance values for each gear if anyone would like to know
1st gear 500 ohms
2nd gear 800 ohms
3rd gear 1,500 ohms
4th gear 2,700 ohms
5th gear 6,800 ohms
6th gear 15,000 ohms
so if you want to make your own TRE you need a 6.8K Ohm resistor.
Indisputable videographic proof
www.boostbysmith.com/Videos/gps2.wmv
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This is smack dab on topic. There is no partial. There is no partial fail-safe, no partial pregnant.
No, you mean it was bothering you that I asked you, "How can both books not follow the lower you go in voltage, the opposite happens is the fuel cut richens, being generic FI steps."
I want you to show me there is a different map that is going to change the fuel trim, I pull the clutch in at idle in 5th gear and come to an idle in N. How do you explain away that I shifted gears and the subthrottle moved in sync with the foot apply.
I didn't tell you about the cam sensor. Maybe you can explain that one trick pony.And for sure, the reason for a gps sensor is for different fuel maps, timing maps etc. The ecu's have been hacked and its clear there are different tables for different gears. And now that i know all i need is a crank signal and an ecu i am going to cut all the extra sensors off my bike and sell them on ebay
Say, did I not mention the smaller the value, the richer the cut? Say we take 500 pie cuts; is not 15,000 pie cuts a lot smaller in increments? No matter how you slice it, do you see how both bike values revert to the locked-6 in the generic FI moves of those steps written in stone?
Smithy, I can see you did not grasp the concept once you mention a desired ohm resistance and that trace to ground on the other end. I used another resistor size to prove the same TRE effect will occur. You are missing the 3 basic wire faults and the Method that turns the same limp maps on no matter the resistor. Tink ground... Repeat it before you go to sleep is... G-R-O-U-N-Dare ya go!
???And if you think I did not do my homework understanding bits and pieces of what a TRE does... You better change an ohm resistor to feel the same effect as she defaults to those 'method' maps waiting; you drop a sensor wire out of the loop or to ground. Lots of sensors means lots of maps waiting in the wings = Method.
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