.....electrical problems on a Buell......say it isn't so......LOL!
I hate to say it but yes...............................there are stupid questions..........................
2003 Gsxr1000
- Thread starter sixpack577
- Start date
I hate to say it but yes...............................there are stupid questions..........................
These Vortex Rear
Correct...and also correct...just not Carl's, he knows what's going on...at least as much of any of the rest of us...
lmao
Correct...and also correct...just not Carl's, he knows what's going on...at least as much of any of the rest of us...
lmao
Maybe you’re not holding your mouth right…
Found it on a battery tender inside the dining room of a ranch house in Dillon MT. Six years old with just a thousand miles on it. All OEM except for the battery.
Saving almost a half pound with the Vortex Rearsets over stock.
I bought this Woodcraft rear brake return spring over a year ago, as I had planned on rearsets, and figured they wouldn't have attachments for the rear brake light switch.
This will replace the large spring on the stock rearsets, so I will only have to make a mount for the switch itself, and an attaching point for the lower spring on the inside of the pedal.
This will replace the large spring on the stock rearsets, so I will only have to make a mount for the switch itself, and an attaching point for the lower spring on the inside of the pedal.
Holy moly!
I cleaned, wire wheeled, and masked and clear-coated all the external parts of the rear brake master cylinder today.
I've had a Brakecrafters rebuild kit for it on the shelf for a while, and if you are rebuilding calipers or master cylinders, they are guys to get your parts from.
Brakecrafters Makes the brake parts for all the big name brand brake companies, and their rebuild kits are excellent.
I've used them quite a few times in the past, and to rebuild all 3 of the calipers on this bike too.
If you've never rebuilt a front or rear master cylinder, it is very simple, and the only special tool needed is Snap-Ring pliers.
They take longer to clean than to take apart or put back together.
And the Busa is done the same way.
www.brakecrafters.com
I've had a Brakecrafters rebuild kit for it on the shelf for a while, and if you are rebuilding calipers or master cylinders, they are guys to get your parts from.
Brakecrafters Makes the brake parts for all the big name brand brake companies, and their rebuild kits are excellent.
I've used them quite a few times in the past, and to rebuild all 3 of the calipers on this bike too.
If you've never rebuilt a front or rear master cylinder, it is very simple, and the only special tool needed is Snap-Ring pliers.
They take longer to clean than to take apart or put back together.
And the Busa is done the same way.
www.brakecrafters.com
It will need adjusted, and I have to get longer stainless steel bolts, washers, and nylon insert locknuts, but you get the idea.
Definitely Brakecrafters. Master cylinders or calipers, they are my choice.
I'm also replacing the plated steel fasteners with stainless steel.
The stainless is on the left, the plated steel on the right.
I've replaced most of the fasteners on this bike with stainless, just because it doesn't rust, oxidize, and I prefer the look.
Small details no one will notice...but I will, lol
The stainless is on the left, the plated steel on the right.
I've replaced most of the fasteners on this bike with stainless, just because it doesn't rust, oxidize, and I prefer the look.
Small details no one will notice...but I will, lol
Soupy's +2"/-2"(and anywhere in between) adjustable raising/loweing links, which adjust on the bike.
They'll be perfect to dial in the best ride height for the suspension.
The '03-'04 Gsxr1000 has the highest ride height of all the Gsxr's anyway, and the shock I ordered is about 10mm shorter, so any adjustments I make only need to be minimal for the best handling.
They'll be perfect to dial in the best ride height for the suspension.
The '03-'04 Gsxr1000 has the highest ride height of all the Gsxr's anyway, and the shock I ordered is about 10mm shorter, so any adjustments I make only need to be minimal for the best handling.
RaceTech .95 springs (oem are .85)
These will handle correctly for my weight, and better than stock.
I have new fork seals already, with 5w oil on the way.
I will wait until I finish the rear suspension first, just because the front wheel is in the chock now instead of the forklift stand, and it would just be a hassle to move it all now with no rear shock in it at the moment...I have enough other things to do on it anyway, lol
These will handle correctly for my weight, and better than stock.
I have new fork seals already, with 5w oil on the way.
I will wait until I finish the rear suspension first, just because the front wheel is in the chock now instead of the forklift stand, and it would just be a hassle to move it all now with no rear shock in it at the moment...I have enough other things to do on it anyway, lol
I like that spring on the rear m/c-as for the bolts, those look long enough to use the thin nylock stainless nuts and no washers, it’s not load bearing.
I agree with switching to all stainless too, looks better. And u can always put em in a drill and shine them up
I agree with switching to all stainless too, looks better. And u can always put em in a drill and shine them up
Yep, that's the plan, ss nylon locknuts, and longer bolts will probably be needed, as I'm going to use washers on the back side
The local hardware store has an excellent selection of ss fasteners, and I've been buying it for bikes for years there.
They close for a week for Christmas and New Years, but I'm going to go get several pieces this coming thursday or friday when they reopen.
As for the shine...I still have nightmares from a polished aluminum frame I had on a '94 zx7 20+ years ago, lol
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My last Busa had a polished frame, looks badass but then I had to have all chrome or polished accessories, caps, etc. pain in the ass.
With my current one I can cover up everything with a sharpie haha
If u going slight heavier on the springs, would it benefit from going to 7 or 10wt fork oil as well?
With my current one I can cover up everything with a sharpie haha
If u going slight heavier on the springs, would it benefit from going to 7 or 10wt fork oil as well?
I thought about heavier oil, as it makes for a nice bandaid on a heavy bike like a Busa (I used 7w in my stock Gen2 forks, which came with 5w), but with the lightweight 1000, it wouldn't really help, as thicker oil slows the valving down, which could harshen the ride.
Since the springs aren't much heavier than stock, the forks should perform better being sprung for my weight, without sacrificing any performance from them...at least that's the plan, lol.
If I don't like them, I will get the RaceTech Gold valves for them, which should really dial it all in.
Short Brembo lever
It's angle is a little further from the bar too, which is what I want, I like the clutch and brake to engage far away from the bar(I use 1 or 2 fingers on the lever, and the rest on the grip, and don't want levers crushing the fingers on the grip when I pull them in)
I still have yet to add brake fluid and bleed the brakes, so I'm not positive where it will engage yet, but this lever feels better than the longer one that came on the RCS17.
I got it from KurveyGirl Motorcycle parts, and have bought from them before...but this is my new favorite toolbox lid sticker,
lol
It's angle is a little further from the bar too, which is what I want, I like the clutch and brake to engage far away from the bar(I use 1 or 2 fingers on the lever, and the rest on the grip, and don't want levers crushing the fingers on the grip when I pull them in)
I still have yet to add brake fluid and bleed the brakes, so I'm not positive where it will engage yet, but this lever feels better than the longer one that came on the RCS17.
I got it from KurveyGirl Motorcycle parts, and have bought from them before...but this is my new favorite toolbox lid sticker,
lol
I was going to run the bike with the p.a.i.r valves conected directly to the crankcase vent, the "sucker mod" good for a couple hp you'll never feel, lol.
I have seen this done sucessfully a few times, but with almost 40k miles on the engine, with no leaks, I figured I'de just be better safe than sorry, and get a set of p.a.i.r block-off plates, and vent the crankcase into the back of the airbox.
And block-off plates have gotten pricey!
They used to be $15-$20 most everywhere, but now they are $45-$80!
But, I happened to find these at Rob Bush Motorsports for $35
I have seen this done sucessfully a few times, but with almost 40k miles on the engine, with no leaks, I figured I'de just be better safe than sorry, and get a set of p.a.i.r block-off plates, and vent the crankcase into the back of the airbox.
And block-off plates have gotten pricey!
They used to be $15-$20 most everywhere, but now they are $45-$80!
But, I happened to find these at Rob Bush Motorsports for $35
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