Frame up Build with mods and carbon fibre.

[Bumblebee]

Will they be like this?

 

[Dai.]

For half of it yeah, we’re incorporating the Magical Racing hump into the rear tail since it suits the tank lines.

 

[CraigMcleod]

Have you any pics yet sounds interesting?

Will they be like this?

Wow that does look nice and finish is superb. Sounds like they’re developing it, I’m sure it will be worth the wait

 

[CraigMcleod]

For half of it yeah, we’re incorporating the Magical Racing hump into the rear tail since it suits the tank lines.

Appears they do a carbon fuel tank, are you getting one with your kit?

 

[Dai.]

Appears they do a carbon fuel tank, are you getting one with your kit?

As in cover?. Nope, I have the Yoshimura fuel tank.

The fairing kit is going to be either painted or wrapped in the oem scheme.

 

[ottafish]

Looks like either the Web site or the business is gone. Poo

 

[CraigMcleod]

As in cover?. Nope, I have the Yoshimura fuel tank.

The fairing kit is going to be either painted or wrapped in the oem scheme.

Are you buying from the link above that Bumblebee posted? I think they gave the option of either full carbon tank or a cover.
Are you intending to paint over and hide all that carbon?!!

 

[CraigMcleod]

Looks like either the Web site or the business is gone. Poo

Yeh website has gone, shame they were offering so much!
Busa carbon fibre fairing kit

 

[Bumblebee]

Yeh website has gone, shame they were offering so much!
Busa carbon fibre fairing kit

Probably too costly to make with small returns from people who own Hayabusas...

 

[CraigMcleod]

Probably too costly to make with small returns from people who own Hayabusas...

They did oversell it they were offering everything including choosing your own weave. Shame really it did look awesome.

 

[Dai.]

Are you buying from the link above that Bumblebee posted? I think they gave the option of either full carbon tank or a cover.
Are you intending to paint over and hide all that carbon?!!

I’m working with a manufacture in Japan who provides top shelf products but don’t normally sell these. Going to hide half of it to stay with the Aus LE scheme.

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Wow that does look nice and finish is superb. Sounds like they’re developing it, I’m sure it will be worth the wait

Hi I have carbon fiber body work that is reinforced in places with fiber glass. I have a 3/4 upper, CF tankand a one piece tail that is 12 inchers over. That was made by Catalyst before they closed. For photos see [ my very slow build.

I’m working with a manufacture in Japan who provides top shelf products but don’t normally sell these. Going to hide half of it to stay with the Aus LE scheme.

 

[CraigMcleod]

Hi I have carbon fiber body work that is reinforced in places with fiber glass. I have a 3/4 upper, CF tankand a one piece tail that is 12 inchers over. That was made by Catalyst before they closed. For photos see [ my very slow build.

I stumbled on your build a few days back. Amazing work and some cool ideas for weight reduction

 

[CraigMcleod]

Just a quick one... I know it’s just a nut and bolt but not any old nut and bolt. It’s a Titanium adjuster bolt with Titanium lock nut which sits perfectly... it’s the little details

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Just a quick one... I know it’s just a nut and bolt but not any old nut and bolt. It’s a Titanium adjuster bolt with Titanium lock nut which sits perfectly... it’s the little details

View attachment 1629819

Hi. Every gram counts. I have aluminum bolts in side of the motor and the 6mm bolts on the cases. a Ti shock spring, Ti chain and swingarm pevitt bolt 9 3/4 ozs, a Ti clutch pusher.

 

[CraigMcleod]

Hi. Every gram counts. I have aluminum bolts in side of the motor and the 6mm bolts on the cases. a Ti shock spring, Ti chain and swingarm pevitt bolt 9 3/4 ozs, a Ti clutch pusher.

Have you got a target weight or just keep going and see where it ends up? I priced a titanium engine case bolt set, from memory it was £250+ Vs £17 for stainless steel. Weight saving is impressive though! Think I’ll add titanium as funds allow (starting with chain adjusters ). Big items obviously bring in the biggest rewards, those Dymag wheels are incredible (I will post some comparison weight soon). Fitting discs was a disappointment sooo heaaaavy!! What are the lightest brake discs I wonder?
I’ve two pairs of Yoshi end cans here stainless and carbon versions, the carbons are almost half the weight! I’m also swapping the bars and top bar mount for something more comfortable, so much weight to be saved in this area too. Side stand, I need to find a lighter replacement but keep the strength. I’ve seen a carbon version but just don’t think I’d be happy at MOT time when the examiner asks me to rest the full weight of bike on its stand so he can check wheel bearings etc.
i have built lightweight pushbikes in the past ‘weightweanies’ as they’re called do obtain some ridiculous featherlight weights. UCI pushbike race governing body put a minimum race weight of 6.8kilos, this is reckoned to be a safe weight before components and frames become fragile and unsafe. I’ve got to sub 6 kilo, I’ve a customer who’s managed 4 kilo! He keeps snapping components, handlebars for example and carbon sprockets. Pushing weight down eventually becomes a trade off between reliability, safety, ride-ability (don’t want it flexing), money! Chasing those last few grams becomes expensive and obsessive, chamfering titanium Allen head bolts I guess is becoming obsessive
I built this a few years back
Weightweanie pushbikes

 

[ottafish]

That's a piece of art

 

[CraigMcleod]

That's a piece of art

Trek bikes came up with the concept in the late 90’s, it only went into production for a year or so before being banned from racing. UCI said it was to ‘aerodynamic’ and gave a disadvantage over regular frame designs. Shame really as development stopped. It was the first bike frame to take full advantage of carbon fibre material, they utilised its properties to mould a frame with a cantilever beam that supported rider weight. This did away with long rear forks and seat tube (tube between pedals and riders seat) which increased aero effect. That cantilever also allowed a slight degree of flex for rider comfort which kept them ‘fresher’ over long distance races (regular stiff frames would batter riders and bounce them out of the seat which was hard work over several hours). That lower triangle area around the pedals and rear wheel attachment is by contrast very stiff as it’s a small triangle. This produced less twist in the frame when pedalling hard and so transmitted more energy to the wheels. All clever stuff .
Getting back on track Busas and most other motorcycles have a similar cantilever rear frame, made of steel with a plastic undertray in our case. Now if that little carbon tube on a push bike can support a rider why not use the same principle. Add two tubes made of thicker walled carbon, mould in the undertray and produce one complete cantilever structure. Weight would be approx ¼ of the standard steel/plastic original version.

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Have you got a target weight or just keep going and see where it ends up? I priced a titanium engine case bolt set, from memory it was £250+ Vs £17 for stainless steel. Weight saving is impressive though! Think I’ll add titanium as funds allow (starting with chain adjusters ). Big items obviously bring in the biggest rewards, those Dymag wheels are incredible (I will post some comparison weight soon). Fitting discs was a disappointment sooo heaaaavy!! What are the lightest brake discs I wonder?
I’ve two pairs of Yoshi end cans here stainless and carbon versions, the carbons are almost half the weight! I’m also swapping the bars and top bar mount for something more comfortable, so much weight to be saved in this area too. Side stand, I need to find a lighter replacement but keep the strength. I’ve seen a carbon version but just don’t think I’d be happy at MOT time when the examiner asks me to rest the full weight of bike on its stand so he can check wheel bearings etc.
i have built lightweight pushbikes in the past ‘weightweanies’ as they’re called do obtain some ridiculous featherlight weights. UCI pushbike race governing body put a minimum race weight of 6.8kilos, this is reckoned to be a safe weight before components and frames become fragile and unsafe. I’ve got to sub 6 kilo, I’ve a customer who’s managed 4 kilo! He keeps snapping components, handlebars for example and carbon sprockets. Pushing weight down eventually becomes a trade off between reliability, safety, ride-ability (don’t want it flexing), money! Chasing those last few grams becomes expensive and obsessive, chamfering titanium Allen head bolts I guess is becoming obsessive
I built this a few years back
Weightweanie pushbikes
View attachment 1629839

View attachment 1629840

View attachment 1629841

View attachment 1629842

Hi. I have to balance weight with keeping it strong as I plan to make 800 to 1000 HP. For land speed I would like to run 270 to 280 MPH. at the drags hope 6.99 at 200. Goal 600 lbs total. So bike 450 lbs me 150 lbs suited. I have DY mags but they are magnesium.

 

[CraigMcleod]

Hi. I have to balance weight with keeping it strong as I plan to make 800 to 1000 HP. For land speed I would like to run 270 to 280 MPH. at the drags hope 6.99 at 200. Goal 600 lbs total. So bike 450 lbs me 150 lbs suited. I have DY mags but they are magnesium.

Upto 1000bhp fk me
There’s a guy over here (Uk) aiming for 300mph in 1 mile... whether that’s possible remains to be seen