Getting the Busa to corner better

[stkflkr]

I thought I read on here before something about adding teeth to the rear sprocket and adding an inch to the rear to get the busa to cut corners better. I am not really a track guy...yet..but any mods I can do to improve my betty is well appreciated. Any other ideas? Any one know about these mods and how to add an inch in the rear?

 

[edubb1971]

I think making the wheel base longer wouldn't help with cornering, or a sprocket change but I could be wrong

 

[dadofthree]

From reading threads you could do suspension mods and weight loss mods, of course a great set of tires. I've heard one up in the arse, don't know if that ones proven. It would give more clearance.

 

[stkflkr]

Yeah I have no clue thus the post but I think I read the guy saying up three teeth on the rear drive and to raise the back end up an inch. ( not sure how to do that) I was just hoping someone would know

 

[Commuta_Busa]

I'll assume you mean raising the rear by an inch (shorter dog bones). You can definatly play with raising the rear/lowering the front you'll notice a big difference. As for the sprocket change it can make the bike more responsive to throttle input. Play with your rpm's by being in different gears before/during/after the apex and see what rpm's you like. Then you'll be able to pick a sprocket that puts you in that rev range. It's something you have to play with. everyone is different. Me, I like to carry alot of revs while others don't. Also play wityh the idea of going to a 180 rear tire. Tire pressure and suspension setup are very important if you want to get the most out of the bike. A change in spring rate might also be needed.

 

[dadofthree]

Yeah I have no clue thus the post but I think I read the guy saying up three teeth on the rear drive and to raise the back end up an inch. ( not sure how to do that) I was just hoping someone would know

The stretch and going up 3 on the rear sprocket are drag specific. It would lower the gearing and the stretch is designed to keep the front down on launch.

https://www.hayabusa.org/forums/?act=ST;f=47;t=30985

Suspension how to thread. On raising the azz you would buy links for the rear that raise the bike. I don't know if that's proven, other than giving better clearance.

 

[Commuta_Busa]

oh yea... shortening the wheel base also helps. An inch change in wheel base can also make noticable changes in the handling.

 

[dadofthree]

oh yea... shortening the wheel base also helps. An inch change in wheel base can also make noticable changes in the handling.

I agree on shorter wheel base for twisties

 

[kml]

Some things that helped are; +1 inch raising links, 180/55 rear tire, stiffer fork springs and +2 teeth in the rear to shorten the wheelbase. The raising links, for me, made the biggest difference. Oh,and, fresh rubber that's not flat spotted in the rear.

cheers
ken

 

[BlkDrgnZ28]

never seen anyone do a shorter wheelbase on a busa but i probably wouldn't even notice cause unless its a crazy arm or something but raise the back and inch or i've heard droping the front an inch will have the same effect but look into a 55 series tire and the sprocket change is just gonna help you keep the revs higher which will help with you exit a lil faster weight loss i saw a dog bones that relocated teh battery to inte bones but you had to lower the rear wich defeated the purpose of relocating the battery

 

[stkflkr]

Your avatar trips me out. Is there a story behind it?

 

[Over_Easy]

Some things that helped are; +1 inch raising links, 180/55 rear tire, stiffer fork springs and +2 teeth in the rear to shorten the wheelbase. The raising links, for me, made the biggest difference. Oh,and, fresh rubber that's not flat spotted in the rear.

cheers
ken

Agreed, EXCEPT go with a 190/55 tire - same profile with a greater contact patch.

If you're talking about simple things you can do as opposed to forking out wads of cash for brand new Ohlins, going from 40t rear spocket to 43t will ever so slightly shorten the wheelbase by bringing your rear wheel in closer, adjust (stiffen) your stock suspension and raise 1" in the rear (this will help the bike fall faster).

OH and #1 thing you can do is practice the proper technique.

 

[bigoltool]

If you do a search on here for Raising Links you will likely find a lot of info on making a busa "handle". But my first suggestion is to get your Static Sag right. This may or may not require new springs. Then sort out your damping settings and Tire pressures. From there you can move to Raising links and altering tire profiles. The raisng links are a great bang for the buck mod which basically raises the rear of the bike and fundametally alters the steering head angle and most importantl;y for the Busa helps big time with the turning response. The roll rate will be much improved from Stock with this simple addition. This effect can be even further exagerated by dropping the front end a little in the triple clamps. The Busa (Most bIkes actually) is fairly receptive to changes in tire profile and the narrower/taller 180/55 also helps with the roll response but could(?) also raise or lower your final drive ratio due to the altered rolling diameter. From there you can move into Suspension work like revalving and new springs etc. Then you can progressively work towards reducing the unsprung weight of the bike to allow your suspension to do its job more effieceintly by not having to damp as much moving and rotating mass. If you are to the point of altering your wheelbase to make it handle better then I'd say there are probably other bikes out there that may be better suited to the mission.

This guys site has a lot of good information on Suspension and bike setup.

 

[kml]

This guys site has a lot of good information on Suspension and bike setup.

Good link thanks!

cheers
ken

 

[Big Red]

Tire profile and compound, suspension revalved, new springs and tuned for your riding weight and style, raise the rear 1",light weight wheels, gearing for accelerating to the corner and out, build and tune the engine for a broad horsepower and torque curve. Stroker crank moderate cam timing long velocity stacks tuned and tuned exhausts for midrange power. Brakes that really stop like Brembos.

 

[stkflkr]

Wow!1 I had no idea. A lot of the stuff you all have offered makes perfect sense however there is some thats a bit overwhelming. So just for the basic change right now would be to get a smaller or bigger tire?? Soften the rear shocks? Raise the rear 1 inch? Dpo I soften the front forks? I'm not going to worry about the rear drive. I want to keep the tire on the grounfd for now.

 

[In10SS]

At least 3 or 4 other people said going to a larger 42 or 43 tooth rear sprocket can speed your exit, but from your last post, I'm not sure you made the connection that this moves the rear tire forward slightly, shortening your wheelbase and speeding your response.  From a bang for the buck perspective, a rear sprocket change is pretty cheap, but you do have to factor in wear on both sprockets & chain before making that choice. If I could state my two cents, I'd say setting your proper sag should be first on your list.  If you're more than 180 lbs, you should consider upgrading the front springs.  For bigger guys our bikes are way to soft in front & lowering the front should probably be avoided as well. Raising the rear sort of accomplishes the same effect of speeding the steering and is also cheap and easy using shorter dog bones. #4 would be rear sprocket.  At this point your bike should be much quicker as well as more predictable and smoother.  Suspension changes due to excell/decell will be minimized. Your suspension will be working with you on the bumps & dips and you'll feel a lot more confident pushing your bikes limits. 5th would be tires.  Better handling tires and changing to a more rounded rear tire like the 180/55 or 190/55 will make a noticable differance in the way the bike falls into turns.  I'd move tires way up the list if they are worn & flat spotted.  Tires aren't cheap but you'd have to do this one anyway, right?  At this point, I'd stop worrying  about the suspension and start working on brakes & brake feel.  Stainless steel brake lines and better pads will give you a lot more confidence and help you speed your way through the curves.  Notice you haven't spent a bunch of money yet and now your bike can do things most riders think a busa is to big & heavy to do well. Enjoy!  Honestly, if you're not happy at this point, you may need a different bike!  I have a gsxr 750 as well.  The busa doesn't feel quite as effortless as the 750 but the extra power offsets that to an extent.  When you're at 6k rpm instead of 12k rpm doing the same thing it just feels a little more relaxed to me. Plus, the busa is way more comfortable for an old guy like me. It's still my first choice in almost every riding situation. Go get 'em!

 

[Wag]

+1 on everything up there!

--Wag--

 

[Powers739]

Take a class... do a track day, any lessons you can get will pay off in the long run. The bike will most likely out perform you and your skills for some time to come...

 

[johndoe]

You and your bike and some twisties and PRACTICE. Take a track day lesson would be even better.