Has anyone installed the "no cut" frame sliders?

Hi Everyone,
This is Tom. I am the technical supervisor at T-Rex Racing. Yes you got me. I did copy the four sliders about four years ago. Just like many companies, we try to learn and adopt anything that we deemed good as long as it is legal and beneficial to our customers. Under the law, if one claims that he/she is an intellectual property owner of a product. He/she must have a patent for it. Without a patent, it is an invitation “please go ahead and make themâ€￾ for everyone. Companies do this everyday. Look at the similar design between Bike Design and R&G:
ou5t1v.jpg
,
1z4wifr.jpg


They are both in the shape of tear drop.

About the cracked sliders that you see, please allow me to explain. I did have one single batch of sliders was injection molded for the 06 Yamaha FJR1300 about ago. This is an experiment with the popular injection molded method that used in 99.9% of all the plastic that you see every day: anything from plastic cup to computer keyboard to cell phone plastic case etc... The pucks were fine but on some sliders there were bubbles inside. I only used these pucks on the left side slider of this specific FJR model only. We had contacted and replaced all of our FJR pucks. To my knowledge, there is not a single FJR was damaged with the defective pucks. The problem does not happen to other model whatsoever, since they have always been machined from solid rod. I tell all my customers who worry about the strength of our slider pucks that if he can break the puck with the biggest hammer he can find I will refund the 2X the price of the sliders + shipping. I have been trying to fix this image problem of our sliders ever since that one incident. But still, every once in a while I have someone brought up the problem, as he heard it from someone or read it from a thread few years ago in a forum. Anything written on the internet seems to be around forever.
As for the problem with the 2008 - onward Hayabusa no cut frame sliders, I have sold hundreds of these sliders. The steel brackets are assembled and tig-welded by hands. It could have been that the bracket was moved in the welding jig causing a slight misalignment. As the result, the slider may touch the plastic slightly. If this is the case, I more than willing to send you another bracket. Just send me an email at tomc@t-rex-racing.com with your info. Any company can make mistake, but what one do afterward is what count.
As far as whose product is better quality, please allow me to point out some technical details. Both T-Rex and Bike Design use same kind billet aluminum spacer and plastic. However, we, T-Rex use grade 12.9 for all our bolts. Bike Design uses grade 8.8 bolts see Fig 1. 8.8 bolts is carbon steel at half the price and half as strong compared to 12.9 alloy bolts. You can verify this by calling any metric bolt suppliers and ask which is stronger and more expensive: 8.8 or 12.9 grade? Our steel brackets are tig-welded and powder-coated in black to blend in with black frame.
21on241.jpg

rhjvc5.jpg



We have billet aluminum inserts in our frame sliders. Bike Design don’t. W/o the aluminum insert the sliders tend to crack under the pressure exerted by the bolts being torque to factory standard, about 35-45 ft/lb. The crack can develop right then or afterward. Here is a complaint from one of Bike Design’s customers example:
Bike Design sliders suck - TLZone Forums
About the argument that T-Rex no cut sliders make Bike Design no cut sliders looks bad. This is like saying, Kia makes bad cars. Somehow, it makes Toyota looks bad b/c it also makes cars. It is totally non-sensical. Bike Design is mad b/c it feel threatened and could not charge customers for $200+ /set of frame sliders in this economic downturn.
As far as why T-Rex sliders are cheaper? We sell direct to customers. We don’t do expensive advertising like $2000 for a 1â€￾x2â€￾ space on magazine. We don’t go through distributor and dealer. Each of these of middle men raise the price by 50-80% mark-up. If anyone have a question, please feel free to send me an email tomc@t-rex-racing.com.
 
Hi Everyone,
This is Tom. I am the technical supervisor at T-Rex Racing. Yes you got me. I did copy the four sliders about four years ago. Just like many companies, we try to learn and adopt anything that we deemed good as long as it is legal and beneficial to our customers. Under the law, if one claims that he/she is an intellectual property owner of a product. He/she must have a patent for it. Without a patent, it is an invitation “please go ahead and make them” for everyone. Companies do this everyday. Look at the similar design between Bike Design and R&G:

They are both in the shape of tear drop.

About the cracked sliders that you see, please allow me to explain. I did have one single batch of sliders was injection molded for the 06 Yamaha FJR1300 about ago. This is an experiment with the popular injection molded method that used in 99.9% of all the plastic that you see every day: anything from plastic cup to computer keyboard to cell phone plastic case etc... The pucks were fine but on some sliders there were bubbles inside. I only used these pucks on the left side slider of this specific FJR model only. We had contacted and replaced all of our FJR pucks. To my knowledge, there is not a single FJR was damaged with the defective pucks. The problem does not happen to other model whatsoever, since they have always been machined from solid rod. I tell all my customers who worry about the strength of our slider pucks that if he can break the puck with the biggest hammer he can find I will refund the 2X the price of the sliders + shipping. I have been trying to fix this image problem of our sliders ever since that one incident. But still, every once in a while I have someone brought up the problem, as he heard it from someone or read it from a thread few years ago in a forum. Anything written on the internet seems to be around forever.
As for the problem with the 2008 - onward Hayabusa no cut frame sliders, I have sold hundreds of these sliders. The steel brackets are assembled and tig-welded by hands. It could have been that the bracket was moved in the welding jig causing a slight misalignment. As the result, the slider may touch the plastic slightly. If this is the case, I more than willing to send you another bracket. Just send me an email at tomc@t-rex-racing.com with your info. Any company can make mistake, but what one do afterward is what count.
As far as whose product is better quality, please allow me to point out some technical details. Both T-Rex and Bike Design use same kind billet aluminum spacer and plastic. However, we, T-Rex use grade 12.9 for all our bolts. Bike Design uses grade 8.8 bolts see Fig 1. 8.8 bolts is carbon steel at half the price and half as strong compared to 12.9 alloy bolts. You can verify this by calling any metric bolt suppliers and ask which is stronger and more expensive: 8.8 or 12.9 grade? Our steel brackets are tig-welded and powder-coated in black to blend in with black frame.

We have billet aluminum inserts in our frame sliders. Bike Design don’t. W/o the aluminum insert the sliders tend to crack under the pressure exerted by the bolts being torque to factory standard, about 35-45 ft/lb. The crack can develop right then or afterward. Here is a complaint from one of Bike Design’s customers example:
Bike Design sliders suck - TLZone Forums
About the argument that T-Rex no cut sliders make Bike Design no cut sliders looks bad. This is like saying, Kia makes bad cars. Somehow, it makes Toyota looks bad b/c it also makes cars. It is totally non-sensical. Bike Design is mad b/c it feel threatened and could not charge customers for $200+ /set of frame sliders in this economic downturn.
As far as why T-Rex sliders are cheaper? We sell direct to customers. We don’t do expensive advertising like $2000 for a 1”x2” space on magazine. We don’t go through distributor and dealer. Each of these of middle men raise the price by 50-80% mark-up. If anyone have a question, please feel free to send me an email tomc@t-rex-racing.com.

Now, I think that I'm a TWO-TIME idiot:banghead::banghead:because I've bought T-rex AND Bike Design...Maybe I've to buy another 'Busa to make a confrontation???

Tom , then I'll send you an e-mail to make you send me a new couple of brackets 'cause my sliders touch the fairing...
The biggest problem for me it's the electric cable lifted by the slider...
Unfortunately it's to late for the fairing because is now scratched by the slider.
 
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Hi TRexTechnician, I've bought your T-rex, now I'm waiting to receive the Bike Design and I've at home the GSG...
What do you think (technically)about GSG frame sliders that'I've posted some page back?
a BIG-BIG aluminium CNC plate bolted on TWO points of the frame...

hayabusa%20-010.jpg
 
About the argument that T-Rex no cut sliders make Bike Design no cut sliders looks bad. This is like saying, Kia makes bad cars. Somehow, it makes Toyota looks bad b/c it also makes cars. It is totally non-sensical. Bike Design is mad b/c it feel threatened and could not charge customers for $200+ /set of frame sliders in this economic downturn.
As far as why T-Rex sliders are cheaper? We sell direct to customers. We don’t do expensive advertising like $2000 for a 1â€￾x2â€￾ space on magazine. We don’t go through distributor and dealer. Each of these of middle men raise the price by 50-80% mark-up. If anyone have a question, please feel free to send me an email tomc@t-rex-racing.com.

UHm...I've bought Bike design f.s. directly from them...
 
Sorry about the late reply, I don't work weekends. :)

T-Rex Technician... And producer, and CEO, and marketer, and orderpicker, and ... The T-Rex company is just one person so there's no need to go profiling yourself as the company's technician. :D

I'll handle your arguments and accusations one at a time...

"any unpatented design is an invitation to be copied"

I've asked juridical advice about this. I'm waiting for our lawyer to get back to me about that.

Companies do this everyday. Look at the similar design between Bike Design and R&G: They are both in the shape of tear drop.

People steal and murder everyday too, so that makes it righ, huh? I think there is a big difference in the shape of the Bike Design Teardrop slider and the R&G Aero slider. Just look at the length ("diameter"). You also see that ours becomes thinner towards the end while theirs stays just as thick. Theirs have the hole covered up by the company logo, ours don't. Theirs is not mounted on an aluminium spacer, ours is. I believe you think that every crash protector that is not round is a copy of R&G's slider.

About the cracked sliders that you see, please allow me to explain. *explanation*

May be so, I have no proof that indicates that you're not telling the truth about that. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt.

The steel brackets are assembled and tig-welded by hands.

How can you expect a good fit for for sliders brackets if you weld them by hand? Ours are done by robots so there's no need for "alignment" (which is not possible anyway if you have a good tight bracket) or replacement after selling them and finding out that the sliders touch the fairing. You can't expect the same weld quality either.

However, we, T-Rex use grade 12.9 for all our bolts. Bike Design uses grade 8.8 bolts see Fig 1. 8.8 bolts is carbon steel at half the price and half as strong compared to 12.9 alloy bolts. (plus picture below)

21on241.jpg


The picture is a prototype, as I said. Check out the writing on the bracket... Do you think we do that on the production brackets too? Prototypes are ment to see if a certain solution is feasible or not. Whether you take a 12.9 or a 8.8 bolt off the shelf, it doesn't matter for a prototype. They both fit and that's what matters when you make a prototype that's not intended to be used. We use ONLY 12.9 bolts to mount sliders. We have 8.8 bolts too because it's ridiculous to waste your (and your customer's) money on expensive bolts in low-stress areas. The quoted picture is the right hand side of a 03-04 CBR600RR. I've looked up the bolt we use in the packing list.

00912,10100 ZS
Staal verzinkt CK 12.9 Din 912
M 10 x 1.5 x 100mm Zn

In case you're in doubt, ask Professor, Street'n Track or Gabelbrucken what bolt we delivered to mount the sliders. The 08-09 Hayabusa kit has three 8.8 bolts (M8 thickness) too, but as I said, these are used in low-stress areas. The M10 and M12 bolts in the same kit are 12.9 because they have to cope with more energy in case of an impact. We also have 10.9 bolts.

We have billet aluminum inserts in our frame sliders. Bike Design don’t. W/o the aluminum insert the sliders tend to crack under the pressure exerted by the bolts being torque to factory standard

We don't have aluminium inserts because we don't have any reason to use them. I just checked the T-Rex sliders we still have in our archives. They don't have the inserts, so you must have come up with that idea (or stole it from R&G) later. You need those inserts because you use a sort of plastic that doesn't support the kind of tension that is involved with tightening a bolt. We have never used inserts and have NEVER EVER had a cracked slider. You insert the aluminium spacer and tighten then bolt and so you create a space between the slider and the spacer. The slider is too loose and what happens when you crash? The loose slider tilts a bit and increases pressure on the inside wall of the slider, therefore causing it to break. It's hard to explain when you're not a native English speaker, so I've made a litttle drawing to explain:

24vux6a.jpg


And that's when the slider cracks and unfolds around the bolt and aluminium insert, as you see on the picture below. You can clearly see the aluminium insert, still in place...

bk1s6.jpg


There's no need for an insert if you use the right (more expensive) materials.

Here is a complaint from one of Bike Design’s customers example:

No argument about that one. We've had issues with the TL1000R sliders... Back in March 2004 as you see in the topic dates... The slider prototypes were made in June 2003 and we started selling them in September 2003. You read in the topic that we hadn't heard of any problems yet, which was really so. You only find out that there's a structural problem when you get a complaint. We immediately responded to those complaints by changing the design for the left hand mounting bracket. T-Rex, you should know, you've copied AND sold them...

There... Feel free to hit me again with some new (and better founded) attacks please...
 
I've just received the package...:thumbsup:
The brackets are a stunning work of art! Even the package...very professional!
This week I will make a serious comparison between T-rex and BDB.I can NOW confirm the 12,9 alloy bolts...now I don't want to count 'em , I'm too tired, here's 11:57 PM.
Good Night pals and thank to BDB staff...

Soon, I hope to can say to you all:

BUY BIKE DESIGN BENELUX and make safe your bike!

or

BUY T-REX AND save money
 
Hey Gabelbrücken,

I seet that you've got the 08-09 model. I've checked what T-Rex does for this bike... In essence, he modified the 99-07 kit to fit an 08-09 with as few changes as possible. But it means he must have had a bike in order to see what changes he had to make. The problems you showed in the pictures above, show how awful his frame slider development skills really are... His slider touches the fairing and there seems to be a hassle with the electric wiring.

We've started from scrap, as we do with each new model. We're not keen on cutting in costs by using stuff that hasn't been developed for that exact bike. By starting from zero (and keeping the solutions you've found in the past in mind) you make sure that you've made the best possible kit to protect the bike and don't make compromises to make it a bit cheaper... Check out his (first pic) and our (second pic) kit...

1ze9wn8.jpg


3329z6f.jpg


You see that our kit doesn't touch the fairing and it leaves the wiring where it should be, unstrained.

This pic shows the new mounting bracket and proves that the electric wiring is left as it was.

skxixf.jpg


And it's not touching the fairing. Don't mind the prototype slider on the third pic though, we were just experimenting with some new designs.

md08zk.jpg


2gtn2bk.jpg


2ic74aq.jpg


My conclusion: T-Rex proves that he knows sh!t :whistle: about making frame sliders and f\_/cked up a 99-07 kit to make an easy 08-09 kit that has a rubbish fit and compromises the effectiveness of the kit in a crash and even passively (see wiring). Ours is not as cheap (in any meaning of the word), but I hope you now see why...

Hi quoted this post 'cause now I see that in my package the slider is ALL in plastic...in the pics you've posted the slider is in alluminum...The T-rex slider have the body in alluminium...

I see again that the straight long bar is NOT narrowed in the middle? it's normal?

very good that the bracket have a little sticker to avoid scratches on the frame surface...but for me, it's too late...because the T-rex haven't this soft sticker...:banghead:

I have to say that seeing the contents of the package one can repent to have spend more than 200 bucks for two pieces of steel and two pieces of plastic...uhm...???
 
Hi gabelbrucken,

That's right, we've replaced most of the aluminium holders with black holders in the same material as the crash pads... These are more discrete and less "in your face" because most people want their crash pads to be as invisible as possible. Just about all frames are black now, so they match it better than a blinky aluminium piece. We've also examined the option to have our aluminium sliders anodised in black, but chose not to do that because it would make the kits more expensive and anodised colors don't hold very well. They would fade because of UV-rays. The new, synthetic holders are just as strong as aluminium holders, they match the frame colour of the bike, are less expensive then black anodised holder and they're lighter too... Nothing but advantages... Be carefull with what you call "plastic". ;) This material has a lower friction coefficient then aluminium... It's very tough. :) They even make bearing balls of it because they last longer than metal bearings.

Another advantage over aluminium is that it allows to be deformed a bit under stress. When you take an impact, an aluminium holder will be stiff, transfering al the energy to the bolt, which will bend. The "plastic" holder allows (very little) bending, so it absorbs a bit of the energy instead of transerring all of it to the bolt. This gives the bolt a better chance of surviving a crash. You can see that I posted a pic of the black holders on page 5. ;)

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/appe...alled-no-cut-frame-sliders-5.html#post2173367

The bar is indeed not narrowed in the middle. This was necessary for the 99-06 model, but not for the new one because this time, there is enough space between the radiator and the engine.

Indeed, we put a special kind of stickers on the brackets so that they don't damage the frame...

The bigger part of your 200 bucks is in the mounting brackets. Sliders aren't very expensive. Reliable production methods for no-compromise high quality brackets are... Just compare the T-Rex brackets with ours. If you know a bit about materials and welding, you'd see why they are so expensive to produce... Hard to see under that layer of powdercoating of course...
 
Another BAD feature of the T-Rex...I've discovered that yesterday ,while the mechanic was removing the sliders and mounting the BDB...
Is impossible to bolt firmly the fairing (left)...Now'I've discovered what was the weird vibration that I felt between 2000 and 3000 rpm.:banghead:
 
I'm confused and my brain is about to asplode....so what frame sliders do I really want to have on my bike so I spend the money right one time? :please:
 
I'm confused and my brain is about to asplode....so what frame sliders do I really want to have on my bike so I spend the money right one time? :please:

Uhm...well...I can say to you that BDB seems to have a perfect fit...my friend who leads a little metallurgic factory said to me that'no confrontation between T-rex and BDB mounting brackets...but he's not sure about holders if he can't compare them with a hammer...

I agree and I think that BDB are better than T-rex...my only doubt is about the lack of metal insert in the pad/slider... GSG (deutschland) HAVE the metal insert ant they features:

NEU - Sturzpads mit Dämpfung durch aufgesetzte Dämpferkappe
NEW -Crash pads with shock absorption through push on shock absorbing caps


Info: Ab 01.10.2008 werden alle Sturzpad-Sätze, deren Pad´s einen Durchmesser von 60mm haben
und zentrisch befestigt werden, mit den Dämpferkappen ausgeliefert.

Höchste Sicherheit beim Sturz oder eines Umfallens
Higher safety during a crash or fall
Absorbiert ca. 1300 N (Newton) = 130Kg
Absorbs ca 1300 N (Newton) = 130 Kg (286 Pound)
Freiraum (grün markiert) dient in komprimierter Form zusätzlich als Sturzdämpfung
The space (marked green) is an added safty future to absorb the shock to the safty Crashpad should your motorbike fall or tip over Die bewährten Trägerkonstruktionen samt Sturzpads bleiben unverändert.
The proven original construction with the safety pad is maintained
Bei einem Umfallen oder leichtem Sturz, bleibt der Sturzpad unversehrt und mit einem
Austausch der Dämpferkappe ist alles wieder OK
Should your bike fall over or is involved in a minor crash, there will be no need to replace the whole Safety crash pad, you only need to replace the new cap. Thats all.
Der Clou, alle GSG- Sturzpads mit zentrischer Befestigung, die in den letzten 18 Jahren produziert u. verkauft wurden, können damit kostengünstig nachgerüstet werden.
The great thing is,that all the , GSG-Safety crash pads with a central attachment, that have been produced and sold within the past 18 years , can now be inexpensively and easily updated with these new caps.



kappe-skizze.jpg


kappe-foto.jpg
 
I'm confused and my brain is about to asplode....so what frame sliders do I really want to have on my bike so I spend the money right one time? :please:

For me it's to late...:banghead::banghead::banghead:
I 've bought T-Rex, GSG and BDB...

but soon I'll be a real frame sliders expert...


No no no no...It's better don't discover what's the best frame sliders...
to be an expert means falling THREE times with three different frame sliders...

Bike Design Benelux maybe can build some frame slider for my bones?:lol:
 
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I doubt that we can make them for your bones... Unless you have some titanium plates in your body... We can then bolt the sliders onto the plate. :rofl:

Don't worry about the lack of metal inserts in the sliders... I explained before that there's no need to use them if you make sure that you use the right type of material for the slider: a kind that doesn't compress that easily as other, cheaper materials. The inserts actually cause the slider to be weaker, as you can read a few posts before this one.
 
I doubt that we can make them for your bones... Unless you have some titanium plates in your body... We can then bolt the sliders onto the plate. :rofl:

Don't worry about the lack of metal inserts in the sliders... I explained before that there's no need to use them if you make sure that you use the right type of material for the slider: a kind that doesn't compress that easily as other, cheaper materials. The inserts actually cause the slider to be weaker, as you can read a few posts before this one.

Yeah, I remember your explaination...and i will thank you for the support and the patience.

Well, now I want to ask to everyone if they understand HOW a frame slider mounted like BDB or T-Rex can transfer the strenght of impact to the other side without flex or bend the bike-frame?
 
Yeah, I remember your explaination...and i will thank you for the support and the patience.

Well, now I want to ask to everyone if they understand HOW a frame slider mounted like BDB or T-Rex can transfer the strenght of impact to the other side without flex or bend the bike-frame?

You can't absorb impact without flex in some part of the construction. The piece that absorbs the enery depends on where the force comes from.

If the hit is axial, then the first bit of energy is absorbed by the slider: its material "merges" wit the rough surface of the tarmac. If you drop your bike when you're not riding, then you'll still see the imprint of the tarmac in the slider's surface. Then there's the natural flex of the frame. A bike has to have flex in its frame, because you couldn't ride it properly through the bends if it would lack flex. The surplus of energy that can't be coped with by the natural flex of the frame, will be absorbed by the brackets. They are less rigid then the bike's frame, so they will be the first to give in. They'll bend but won't break...

If the hit is radial, then the energy will be absorbed by the bolt that holds the slider. It's material properties make it bend, it shouldn't break.
 
You can't absorb impact without flex in some part of the construction. The piece that absorbs the enery depends on where the force comes from.

If the hit is axial, then the first bit of energy is absorbed by the slider: its material "merges" wit the rough surface of the tarmac. If you drop your bike when you're not riding, then you'll still see the imprint of the tarmac in the slider's surface. Then there's the natural flex of the frame. A bike has to have flex in its frame, because you couldn't ride it properly through the bends if it would lack flex. The surplus of energy that can't be coped with by the natural flex of the frame, will be absorbed by the brackets. They are less rigid then the bike's frame, so they will be the first to give in. They'll bend but won't break...

If the hit is radial, then the energy will be absorbed by the bolt that holds the slider. It's material properties make it bend, it shouldn't break.


Thank you so much.
Now, I've all understood and I'm very, very and completely satisfied ...
and very proud to be a BDB customer.
I want to remember to all Busa maniacs that in Italy we say : " Who more money spend (before), less money waste(after)".
 
I've learned the hard way...just don't drop the bike.
Ever.

Is this realistic or am I dreaming?

I don't think frame sliders could help much with 500+lbs. when traveling at such a high speed.
 
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