Rotrex Hayabusa build

Not to thread jack but is there any info on whatever happened to the awesome stealth setup for the busa? I know myself as well as a few others have seen the video and would really like to one day be able to have a setup like that.
We shelved it not because it didn't work. There are 2 bikes out there running without issues. It just wasn't viable as the crank cases had to be machined to accommodate the drive. Meaning shipping around the world.
But on another note I have a new kit coming out that will be incredibly simple to install, not require any machining, no exhaust mods or oil line and cooler mods. It will be intercooled as well. Additionally it will be almost stealth. with very little bodywork alteration. Its going to be a total game changer. Fit all year busa's including Gen3 . Make around 360whp. So keep an eye on my Facebook and YouTube channels. You won't be disappointed.
 
We shelved it not because it didn't work. There are 2 bikes out there running without issues. It just wasn't viable as the crank cases had to be machined to accommodate the drive. Meaning shipping around the world.
But on another note I have a new kit coming out that will be incredibly simple to install, not require any machining, no exhaust mods or oil line and cooler mods. It will be intercooled as well. Additionally it will be almost stealth. with very little bodywork alteration. Its going to be a total game changer. Fit all year busa's including Gen3 . Make around 360whp. So keep an eye on my Facebook and YouTube channels. You won't be disappointed.
:super: that's awesome man I'll definitely keep an eye on it
 
I'm flattered that you have copied my supercharger drive train so closely :) How are you compensating for crankshaft run out? You will obviously run an outrigger bearing. But these cranks can run out by more than enough to knock the bearing out! The early bikes are worse but I have seen several gen 2's with twisted splines causing run out. Good luck with your efforts. Regards Richard Albans TTS Performance.
It s a very good conversion, i run it for over 8 years and 30k kms without any problems. Only modified some things, but these were not neccessary. Only once replaced the belt because of a different pulley ratio. But when you got the possibility and ability to program and machine it al by yourself , it s a nice challenge anyway.
 
I'm flattered that you have copied my supercharger drive train so closely :) How are you compensating for crankshaft run out? You will obviously run an outrigger bearing. But these cranks can run out by more than enough to knock the bearing out! The early bikes are worse but I have seen several gen 2's with twisted splines causing run out. Good luck with your efforts. Regards Richard Albans TTS Performance.
Nice to get a response from you.
Realy like the stuff you guys working on!
Since i rode @vampire charged B-king i always wanted to get my own supercharged bike, and when i had the possibility to make and design most parts myself i took on the challenge.
I dont think the runout wil give problems in this design, but when it does i can easily adjust a part to make the bearing adjustable to runout.
 
Little update, at the moment we take care of the engine internals. Fun job to do! Stronger conrods are in
Next we will also instal lower comp. Pistons , stronger intakevalve springs, and stronger clutch springs.
Thanks to @vampire for all the help!, your conrods will be next

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Hi!,
It has been a while and I made good progress,
The bike was back from the specialist and he did an amazing fabricating the exhaust system, a masterpiece!

Next i had to weld the o2 threadbumps myself so I could pick the right spot.
Then I tried to find a position for the AEM water/methanol pump and I was happy to see that big thing should be possible to fit under the tank.
I made a 3d printed bracket to holt it in place. 3d printing is also really cool way to design and make parts. Its not always strong enough but for a some purposes it will do fine.
Made the oil hoses to the Rotrex and engine to fit and finished and checked the last things before I could fire it up for the first time!
The bike bike started right away and it looked good.
I changed the mappings compared to @vampire Bking with my woolich racing setup to be a bit save on feul.
Last days I made the first kms and it runs already pretty good, made some logfiles and changes to the feulmapping. Fist few 100kms i will drive savely to make some more log files to get the feulmapping right up to 6000 rpm, I am already almost there.
Next I have to get the watermethanol injection finished to cool down the intake temp. so I can save make more rpm.
So next up will be making the watermethanol system to work and the put the gauges for boost pressure and intake temp on the bike and get it ready to put on the dyno.
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Hi!,
It has been a while and I made good progress,
The bike was back from the specialist and he did an amazing fabricating the exhaust system, a masterpiece!

Next i had to weld the o2 threadbumps myself so I could pick the right spot.
Then I tried to find a position for the AEM water/methanol pump and I was happy to see that big thing should be possible to fit under the tank.
I made a 3d printed bracket to holt it in place. 3d printing is also really cool way to design and make parts. Its not always strong enough but for a some purposes it will do fine.
Made the oil hoses to the Rotrex and engine to fit and finished and checked the last things before I could fire it up for the first time!
The bike bike started right away and it looked good.
I changed the mappings compared to @vampire Bking with my woolich racing setup to be a bit save on feul.
Last days I made the first kms and it runs already pretty good, made some logfiles and changes to the feulmapping. Fist few 100kms i will drive savely to make some more log files to get the feulmapping right up to 6000 rpm, I am already almost there.
Next I have to get the watermethanol injection finished to cool down the intake temp. so I can save make more rpm.
So next up will be making the watermethanol system to work and the put the gauges for boost pressure and intake temp on the bike and get it ready to put on the dyno.
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Can you please update us? :)

Probably lots of us are curious to find out more about your project.
 
That's right, pulling season is over so time for a little update...
@Busa3Fan nice to hear you are curious about this project!

Have tested the bike for about 500km in total now up to max 6300rpm and the boost at that point is about 5 or 6 psi. For further tuning in higher rpms i want to be sure the intake temp. Is low as possible so i had to finish my water meth injection first.


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I found a place for the boost gauge and the watermethanol control unit and designed and 3d printed a bracket for it. I wanted to put the gauges on a spot so you could stil see the original gauges while driving, this was harder then i first thought but i managed to do so. After this i have connected the wiring that's comes with the unit and also made a alu. Watermeth tank wich can contain about 2.3Liter.., and yess the cap still fits over the tank
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Next step wil be removing the cap of the upper injectors for more fuel and adding a iat senor. After this i will first test it on the street and then it's finally time to get it on the dyno for further tuning and some numbers!

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Hello!
Last couple of weeks I tested the bike on the street and did some tuning up to 7000 rpm. Because I removed the caps of the upper injectors the engine gets much more fuel. Up to 4800 rpm I only use the lower injectors and above the second injectors starts. The engine was running like before up to 4800rpm and above way to rich, as aspected... I also did some testing with the watermeth and installed a Iap sensor. It al seems to work well.
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watermeth pump
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Watermeth injector and solenoid

Next Saturday we put it on the Dyno for further tuning and maybe finally I can get to see horsepower numbers...
I will keep you guys updated next weekend!
 
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