jeffgordons24
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I finished mounting the Dan-Moto’s wasn’t as easy as they claim it was not so much a plug and play. I had to finagle and shift and move things around but all in all I got them staged. Waiting for the Ti Hardware now.
Lmao!! I am sorry Bryan, what does that mean? I am not all up on the up with shock information. That is how my shock came when Suzuki delivered the bikeSteven your a pretty light guy , but the preload on that shock is cranked way up .
So those rings turn , and add preload to the shock ( stiffer ) aren't you 150 or 60 lb ?Lmao!! I am sorry Bryan, what does that mean? I am not all up on the up with shock information. That is how my shock came when Suzuki delivered the bike
I finished mounting the Dan-Moto’s wasn’t as easy as they claim it was not so much a plug and play. I had to finagle and shift and move things around but all in all I got them staged. Waiting for the Ti Hardware now.
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What is preload for? Yea I am 150lbsSo those rings turn , and add preload to the shock ( stiffer ) aren't you 150 or 60 lb ?
Yea that was one deciding factor for me, the other was those carbon heel plates. For $200 I could have found a used vortex set or a nice set from a US vendor I found. I am pretty happy with the Dan-Moto’s.I'm impressed that DanMoto builds their rearsets with built in provisioning for the factory brake light switch. I ended up using a pressure switch with my rearsets.
C10 is talking about how far down the rear shock has been tightened. Possibly by a heavier rider prior. Need a spanner tool to loosen top ring then bottom ring can be adjusted to change stiffness basically for how aggressive u want shock respond or for weight needs.What is preload for? Yea I am 150lbs
Gotcha, I have owned this bike since it came out of the crate. When I bought it I lowered it a lot and was rubbing my undertail. I might have did that to try and kill off some rear suspension travel. It was like 12 years ago lol so memory fades.C10 is talking about how far down the rear shock has been tightened. Possibly by a heavier rider prior. Need a spanner tool to loosen top ring then bottom ring can be adjusted to change stiffness basically for how aggressive u want shock respond or for weight needs.
Mine is about the same but i am heavier & like it taunt. Did ease it up some years ago after hitting a hump in road at speed & it catapulted the bike into the only endo i have done. More like a hand stand at 90 + was not intended or cool just thought oh crap while riding it out. Had been over the rise before but never in on coming lane; little more slope to it.Gotcha, I have owned this bike since it came out of the crate. When I bought it I lowered it a lot and was rubbing my undertail. I might have did that to try and kill off some rear suspension travel. It was like 12 years ago lol so memory fades.
Yea that was one deciding factor for me, the other was those carbon heel plates. For $200 I could have found a used vortex set or a nice set from a US vendor I found. I am pretty happy with the Dan-Moto’s.
Yea I honestly would say the Driven's were a better choice anyway. The Dan-Motos were a hassle and the Driven ones have a nicer fit and finish and I love the look of them.I didnt see the danmoto bits until after I ordered mine. I still probably would have gotten the Driven pieces anyways due to its wide adjustability.
Those driven ones are on my wishlist.I didnt see the danmoto bits until after I ordered mine. I still probably would have gotten the Driven pieces anyways due to its wide adjustability.
I always liked the K5 / K6 Gixxer thou , it was a well regarded handler , and strong motor , and here is a pic of what can be done , for a bit of fun !!Actually a few.
Still around $8-$10k for a '12 or '13 gsxr1k, which is what I've been stuck on for years.
But I can get an 01-06, or 04-09 zx10 in the $3k-$4k range...which makes me want to buy 2 older ones vs one later model.
One later model would be a high end parts money pit, vs 2 older that would get basic cheap mods and good stock suspension set-up.
The fact that I can buy something helps, considering I have a few priorities ahead of it. So I continue to window shop...and ride my friends bikes for free, being a bum has it's advantages!
I always liked the K5 / K6 Gixxer thou , it was a well regarded handler , and strong motor , and here is a pic of what can be done , for a bit of fun !!View attachment 1590073
I ordered up from Race Ti in UK. Shock bolts M10 x 1.25 , 55 mm length lower , and 75 mm top for when my Penske gets here in a week or so . I looked up the bolts later on Ron Ayers , and the top is a 70 mm length . Couldn't get a accurate measurement for top bolt with out full disassembly . So took my finger for feel to measure it in three steps . Left , center , and right . Came up at 68 mm roughly . Decided since plenty of room in area for a bolt that a 75 mm was to be ordered .Looked at my bike and decided to try swapping my upgraded shock in. It looked like I could get it in and out through the bottom, so I gave it a try and it worked!! It only took me about an hour to do. Put bike on bursig stand. Then, removed my r77 can and midpipe, rectifier bracket, belly wing and header bolt, so that I could slightly move the header exit tip down to access one of the linkage bolts. Only removed the bolt that secures the “dog bones” to swing arm and the one that secures the linkage to the frame and left all hanging with lower shock bolt. I lifted the gas tank and used a swiveling socket extension to get the top mounting bolt out. After that, all I had to do was support the swing arm up high by putting something under the rear tire, so that I could get shock out through the bottom. Once it was out, I took the lower shock bolt off to transfer the linkage with the dog bones to my upgraded shock and reversed the process. I had removed my dog bones in the past, so none the bolts were too bad to remove this time, but if you’ve never had any of this apart on your bike, get ready for a fight, because Suzuki puts some stupid strong locktite at the factory on these suspension bolts.
Sucks that I’ll be working all week and can’t get a good test run, but took it around the neighborhood and I like the feeling. My stock shock would crush my back if I hit the small curbing at the end of my driveway at speed. I tried going faster than I normally do this time and the feeling was a nice surprise. Can’t wait to put some miles on this thing View attachment 1590111
That should do it Bryan. If I remember correctly, you relocated your rectifier and removed the belly wing, so it’ll be an even easier job for you to swap it by sliding it out through the bottom. The only trick is that you have to rotate the shock 90 degrees, so that the nitrogen canister on the OEM unit can slide down through the swing arm hole. Here is a crappy edited internet pic to point at the two bolts I took out at the bottom and then just lifted tank and removed the top mount bolt and the whole thing came out.I ordered up from Race Ti in UK. Shock bolts M10 x 1.25 , 55 mm length lower , and 75 mm top for when my Penske gets here in a week or so . I looked up the bolts later on Ron Ayers , and the top is a 70 mm length . Couldn't get a accurate measurement for top bolt with out full disassembly . So took my finger for feel to measure it in three steps . Left , center , and right . Came up at 68 mm roughly . Decided since plenty of room in area for a bolt that a 75 mm was to be ordered .