What Did You Do To Your Busa, Today?
- Thread starter SoCal Blur
- Start date
I can't believe the amount of riders in Mexico. Once I get mine back I will be visiting a lot.
are you making any suspension adjustments for the new wheels?Finished my other fork . My friend watched me press in the fork seal with my fingers . No way was his reply . Then I snapped in the retaining clip .maybe by Friday ill have RJ back together for a weekend test ride with the new wheels
c10
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In the front taking 2 clicks out on rebound / compression. My spring rate is perfect for current bike weight / rider.
On the rear I'll take the same two clicks off the penske shock, and a full turn preload.
c10
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Wheel is lighter moving in both directions
Humm. I was thinking the wheel moving up (response to a bump) was part of the idea in reducing unsprung weight. So basically a lighter wheel follows the road better than a heavy wheel. So I get increasing the rebound to control the wheels bouncing over road irregularities. Seems increasing the compression would be artificially increasing the weight of the wheel. Maybe I don't understand what is going on. Be interesting to hear your impressions. Talk to suspension setups in your review if you would.
How many years have you been running that thing?
Was in the garage removing my OEM rearsets with the buell pegs to get a head start for tomorrow when my new rearsets were supposed to be delivered. While in the garage, the fedex truck showed up and delivered them today 
!! It was perfect timing and I went right to work and put them on. Everything was adjusted and they feel awesome!!! Only thing left now is the hydraulic switch, which I ordered and will install this weekend and go for a test ride, if time and weather allows. Thanks to @GAmedic for providing some info on setup and switch part number.
!! It was perfect timing and I went right to work and put them on. Everything was adjusted and they feel awesome!!! Only thing left now is the hydraulic switch, which I ordered and will install this weekend and go for a test ride, if time and weather allows. Thanks to @GAmedic for providing some info on setup and switch part number.
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Very nice!!Was in the garage removing my OEM rearsets with the buell pegs to get a head start for tomorrow when my new rearsets were supposed to be delivered. While in the garage, the fedex truck showed up and delivered them today
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If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for them?
Blkoutbusa
Registered
In lieu of being able to buy the correct springs for suspension and get it setup for my weight, should I crank the compression and rebound etc or what can I even do to get "close" so to speak?
Also, lithium battery on a street bike overkill? Only real advantage weight savings? It's like 2x the cost of a yuasa....
Also, lithium battery on a street bike overkill? Only real advantage weight savings? It's like 2x the cost of a yuasa....
$338 on eBay from a seller in Michigan that had a couple of them left.
Those look awesome. The SATOs are very race oriented, meaning their adjustment down and back is limited. Those look pretty comfortable.
Bagherra
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Came on bike bike when I got it...
Johnnie Phatt
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finally set sag, compression and rebound Damping front and rear. Much nicer ride. I need heavier front springs though. Rear shock may be stiff enough to my great surprise when I put in stiffer springs up front
Bagherra
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This is what I need to do.....any tips?
Johnnie Phatt
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Being as my bike is new I did not need to set the suspension to factory settings, something I highly recommend if you purchased your bike used
then Basically I did this starting at the front at all times with any and all adjustments
www.cycleworld.com
Then . Rather than just crank the preload I loosened off all the preload on the forks and then cranked them to the max to see how much adjustment I had available. I was surprised how little total adjustment there was left for me to use I then returned it to the original factory setting
It is important to remember that your forks are never really still even on the best roads So you need to have the preload set so the suspension will both contract AND expand to both absorb bumps and return the tyre to the road surface after the bump
I found that at almost 300 LBS with gear I was never going to get to the correct sag.
I also found that my bike at factory settings was tilting forward rather than being level front to back this effected both my steering geometry and shock absorbsion front and rear
I also felt the springs were so soft they're really barely able to hold up the bike
I needed more preload at both ends However if I set the Rear preload correctly I would again be transferring more weight to the front springs which were already over worked That was not good
So with that in mind I decided to try for a more level ride rather than correct sag at the back and too little at the front. But that is me
I then adjusted My compression and rebound damping to allow freer quicker response to both compression and release. I needed to relax both so that they could respond better to road bumps under all conditions both big and small. Too much compression damping and you are turning your forks into a solid stick Too little Damping you are being flung into the air as the spring extends undamped after the bump
It is a matter of taste and riding style. I am a pure street rider and may knee digging days are well behind me. However I still like a firm ride with good but not extreme corner handling.
With stock settings go for a shortish ride on a road you know well. Take notice of how you think the bike reacts
Is I too jarring. Too bouncy Does it skitter to the outside of a corner
Then go and set sag and compression and damping to what feels right in the shop
Once you are where you think you need to be go and ride the same road at the similar pace again note how the bike behaves. Still to jarring? try a little less comp damping Too bouncy try a little more
ONLY change one thing at a time Do not change everything all at once to save time you will not know what did what to the ride
My only other thing is Do Not listen to what other people say they did to their bike
Their bike is not your bike Their riding style in not your riding style They are not you
It is time consuming but well worth it and you get a day in the saddle enjoying your bike
wht could be better
If all else fails try to find a good shop that specializes in Suspension and go and see them They maybe able to use their knowledge to get you started. It is not really that hard and it is well worth it
then Basically I did this starting at the front at all times with any and all adjustments
Ask the Geek: Set Your Static Sag
Tech Tip - How To Set Motorcycle Suspension Static Sag
www.cycleworld.com
Then . Rather than just crank the preload I loosened off all the preload on the forks and then cranked them to the max to see how much adjustment I had available. I was surprised how little total adjustment there was left for me to use I then returned it to the original factory setting
It is important to remember that your forks are never really still even on the best roads So you need to have the preload set so the suspension will both contract AND expand to both absorb bumps and return the tyre to the road surface after the bump
I found that at almost 300 LBS with gear I was never going to get to the correct sag.
I also found that my bike at factory settings was tilting forward rather than being level front to back this effected both my steering geometry and shock absorbsion front and rear
I also felt the springs were so soft they're really barely able to hold up the bike
I needed more preload at both ends However if I set the Rear preload correctly I would again be transferring more weight to the front springs which were already over worked That was not good
So with that in mind I decided to try for a more level ride rather than correct sag at the back and too little at the front. But that is me
I then adjusted My compression and rebound damping to allow freer quicker response to both compression and release. I needed to relax both so that they could respond better to road bumps under all conditions both big and small. Too much compression damping and you are turning your forks into a solid stick Too little Damping you are being flung into the air as the spring extends undamped after the bump
It is a matter of taste and riding style. I am a pure street rider and may knee digging days are well behind me. However I still like a firm ride with good but not extreme corner handling.
With stock settings go for a shortish ride on a road you know well. Take notice of how you think the bike reacts
Is I too jarring. Too bouncy Does it skitter to the outside of a corner
Then go and set sag and compression and damping to what feels right in the shop
Once you are where you think you need to be go and ride the same road at the similar pace again note how the bike behaves. Still to jarring? try a little less comp damping Too bouncy try a little more
ONLY change one thing at a time Do not change everything all at once to save time you will not know what did what to the ride
My only other thing is Do Not listen to what other people say they did to their bike
Their bike is not your bike Their riding style in not your riding style They are not you
It is time consuming but well worth it and you get a day in the saddle enjoying your bike
wht could be better
If all else fails try to find a good shop that specializes in Suspension and go and see them They maybe able to use their knowledge to get you started. It is not really that hard and it is well worth it
plutonium853
Registered
Here are some photos as promised, sorry about the delay, The Power Commander 3 has since been removed and i now have the woolich tuning. This modification is basically trial and error and has been perfected ever since with various alterations etc. The Lithium battery is the smallest i could find at the time and has lasted without a glitch as long as it has a trickle charge it will last for years. most fasteners are titanium to shave weight( expensive when a good poop would make the biggest difference)
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