What Did You Do To Your Busa, Today?

LC4CARL said:
First post!

First street bike in ten years. Scored a pretty-clean '05 with 22k on the clock. Super excited. Been on dirt bikes in the interim. Looking forward to some epic rides. Booya!


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Welcome, it would serve you well to trot over to the new owners threads as your arrival could get lost here.

Good looking bike you've got there, any mods or planned mods?
 
Ok had a great ride pulled into garage and set up my Busa for the winter.
on sky lift dropped air pressure ,plugged all access for moisture clean and cold wash .

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I’ve learned that covering with towels can generate moisture underneath. They have to have room to breathe and towels prevent It. Try a loose fitting cover in winter as towels are ok as dust covers but only in warm weather.
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Kiwi Rider said:
I have a DR650 up on my bench at the mo’
(Busa is fully up to scratch so no work needed there lol).and I’m upgrading the suspension in a big way, the customer has supplied the parts and dropped off his bike for surgery!
Let the fun begin….
Got the forks apart, get the seals tomorrow and fit new springs and ‘plexivalves’ as they’re called, new oil and bam!! Back on the bike….
Then I remove the shock and degas it and strip it. I’m fitting a race tech piston and customised shim stack (ready to fit for a DR650), new 5W oil, reservoir cap conversion is now done (from needle through rubber type to Schroder valve type) then gas it up to 170psi and will fit the race tech heavier spring (8.1kg). Refit the shock, set the static sag, check the rider sag (should be 80mm) and ride it for a bit.
The owner has already done the carb kit and pipe, and airbox mod and it has very good throttle response for a CV carb.
Pics…..
2017 DR650SE
View attachment 1643679

My messy bench with forks ready for new seals . .
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The forks springs and plexvalves and shock piston/shimstacks
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Rear shock spring
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Race Tech . . . AWESOME company!!
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Right . . this is my modded reservoir cap . . now has the valve stem mounted in it, removed the little black rubber sealing block from it's position in the cap and drilled out the housing to 6mm to accept the valve stem and seals.
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you can see the blue loctite threadlock on the threaded part . . .
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Below . . . this little solid rubber piece is what holds 175 psi pressure in the bladder, the idea is to use a special syringe needle with an air hose fitting attached to it, push it through the rubber block and deflate the pressure to the atmosphere, then remove the cap, turns out it's quite difficult to remove so installing the valve stem gives ya something to grip on to remove the cap, but also . . . with the needle type, trying to push the cap (with bladder attached) into the oil in the res is very very difficult coz the air in the bladder cannot escape quickly through the very fine needle bore (size less than a mm.) BUT . . with the schroder valve removed from the stem it makes it so much easy to push the cap into position below the circlip recess . .

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. . . . but you guys knew that eh . . . lol.
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I'll keep y'all posted on the results of this job. I should actually take over from @c10 with . .
"Kiwi's garage" , but honestly, I cannot be arsed making videos lol.
All the editing and camera work, I take my hat off to Bryan, he did a fine job, and hopefully he will do more.

View attachment 1643678

below is the plexvalve and it sits on top of the damping rod with the spring on top of it holding it sealed against the damping rod. All oil as it gets forced up and down the damping rod MUST pass through this piston and shims, both on compression stroke and rebound stroke also. So in effect, it acts as a cartridge system would . . almost as well.
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Below is the rear shock piston and shim stacks ready to be fitted.
View attachment 1643688

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Just following up on the progress I've made on the DR650 suspension rebuild, I've assembled the forks with the new seals, upgraded heavier springs, and plexi valves, using 7.5W fork oil.
Tonight I completely stripped, cleaned and rebuilt the rear shock with new Race Tech upgraded heavier spring, new piston and shimstack and 5W oil.
Just needs gassing up to 165psi with Nitrogen and then installation in the bike, set sag and test it out!
Pics . . .

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Hey Kiwi, what kind of spring compressor are you using?
Years ago I saw a small wall mount compressor, and it looked like a beer can crusher with a gate shifter on the top that you pulled down(if that makes sense).
I still can't find anything like it(it didn't look homemade either, I want to say it was in a suspension company's video).
Any ideas?
Ever seen similiar?
 
sixpack577 said:
Hey Kiwi, what kind of spring compressor are you using?
Years ago I saw a small wall mount compressor, and it looked like a beer can crusher with a gate shifter on the top that you pulled down(if that makes sense).
I still can't find anything like it(it didn't look homemade either, I want to say it was in a suspension company's video).
Any ideas?
Ever seen similiar?
Click to expand...
Hey mate, I’m not using a spring compressor, I used a C scanner to loosen off the locking ring and then loosened off the main adjuster ring with the C spanner by about 3 full revolutions and then twisted the spring by hand to further loosen the adjuster ring…. It was easy and took a couple minutes to do. The key is to clean and lube the threads thoroughly, I used silicone spray to lube them.
At work we have a pair of small spring compressors with upper and lower hooks on a long threaded rod, miniature version of car strut spring compressors. We use them if the spring is excessively compressed like on a heavy bike.0
Re the wall mounted compressor you mentioned, never seen one of them, but at the Subaru Dealership I was at for years, we had a pneumatic operated spring compressor for suspension struts that was very quick but not easy to use, downright dangerous if you weren’t extremely careful and attentive while using it, you put the strut in it and place the air operated hooks on each side of the spring coils… then close the protective cage around it and then operate the air trigger. I actually saw it let go on one occasion, he hadn’t placed the hooks correctly, and he had not closed the cage door either.. the noise was frightening as it let the spring go, but thankfully the spring hat and spring hit the top of the cage and didn’t fly out the door!
Yeah, he had to shout lunch for that act of stupidity lmao!
It’s extremely satisfying overhauling and upgrading shocks I find… it’s very specialised and few people do it as it’s messy (oil goes everywhere, unavoidable lol) time consuming and you need special equipment and a fair bit of patience and skill to pull it off without any f-ups.
 
Kiwi Rider said:
Hey mate, I’m not using a spring compressor, I used a C scanner to loosen off the locking ring and then loosened off the main adjuster ring with the C spanner by about 3 full revolutions and then twisted the spring by hand to further loosen the adjuster ring…. It was easy and took a couple minutes to do. The key is to clean and lube the threads thoroughly, I used silicone spray to lube them.
At work we have a pair of small spring compressors with upper and lower hooks on a long threaded rod, miniature version of car strut spring compressors. We use them if the spring is excessively compressed like on a heavy bike.0
Re the wall mounted compressor you mentioned, never seen one of them, but at the Subaru Dealership I was at for years, we had a pneumatic operated spring compressor for suspension struts that was very quick but not easy to use, downright dangerous if you weren’t extremely careful and attentive while using it, you put the strut in it and place the air operated hooks on each side of the spring coils… then close the protective cage around it and then operate the air trigger. I actually saw it let go on one occasion, he hadn’t placed the hooks correctly, and he had not closed the cage door either.. the noise was frightening as it let the spring go, but thankfully the spring hat and spring hit the top of the cage and didn’t fly out the door!
Yeah, he had to shout lunch for that act of stupidity lmao!
It’s extremely satisfying overhauling and upgrading shocks I find… it’s very specialised and few people do it as it’s messy (oil goes everywhere, unavoidable lol) time consuming and you need special equipment and a fair bit of patience and skill to pull it off without any f-ups.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I am familiar with the automotive wall mount strut spring compressors, and even the manual versions are kind of sketchy to use.
I have a few of the hooks on threaded rod type compressors too.
I just wish I could find the style I'm talking about, as it was specifically for rear motorcyle and atv shocks, and appeared to be very safe and easy to use.
Oh well, you're no help at all, lol, just kidding, I appreciate the info, and if you ever run across what I'm talking about, you'll know, because it resembles this.

Screenshot_20211119-145621_Google.jpg
 
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