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So you still maintain that top frame over the engine cover is easier to work on than the Suzuki wraparound frame? Your picture had everything on top of and in front of the engine stripped off. You're just contradicting the gripes I've heard from Kawasaki guys so I'm not clear on it.
Yes
FULL DISCLOSURE
I traded a 4wheeler(Yamaha 700 Raptor) for that Concours, kept it 6 months and put 1k miles on it, it just wasn't for me, so I traded it.
Now, when I first got it, it had an oil stain, from a very common o-ring leak, and there are lots of online complaints about it.
I wanted to check the valves anyway, as they were almost due, and again, nothing but complaints posted online.
I check used bikes over pretty throurouhly when I get them, and as I work on and ride alot of bikes, the more bikes I know how to work on, the better off I am.
On to the valve check.
The Concours, although done just the Same as the zx11, 12, 14, and most any shim and bucket sportbike engine, has alot more fairings and trim on it, as you can clearly see when you look at the bike.
So, it's not unreasonable that it takes a little while to get all of the trim off.
It turns out the o-ring had already been replaced, which was good, so off with the valve cover.
The reason there is no radiator or exhaust in my picture is because I also put on a full exhaust, and removed the radiator to clean the leaked oil off of it's exterior.
I just posted that pic to show how wide open the sides of the engine are, and that there is Plenty of room above the valve cover(so I apologize for that confusion).
Now, with the valve cover off, it's all the same. Find the access plug on an engine cover, to put a socket and ratchet on a crank bolt, to manually rotate the engine(removing the spark plugs makes this much easier), and there is usually 2 to 4 positions for the crank and cams to be in(engine dependent), and you will be able to check valve clearance on different valves at the different cam positions.
In the correct position, put a feeler guage between the cam lobe and shim bucket.
If it's in spec, great, move on to the next, if they're all good, then put it all back together and you're done.
But, if the spec is out, you have to put in a thinner or a thicker shim.
To do that, you need to remove the cam chain tensioner, and it is a good idea to ziptie the cam gears to the chain whenever possible, as it will help to keep the engine timing correct.
Now, unbolt the cam journals, so you can lift the cam enough to remove the shim bucket, and the shim, which sits directly on top of the valve stem(and commonly sticks to the inside of the shim bucket, lol). Replace the shim, reassemble, recheck the gap, and assuming all valves are back in spec, now it just needs timed.
Here's where it gets fun, when you have frame rails directly on each side of the cylinder head, getting your hands in there, and being able to physically see cam alignment can be difficult.
It is very doable, people do it every day, I've done many...and it can still be a pain trying to get back together.
Now, look at the Kawaski design.
Yep...Nothing is on the sides of the engine, and there's lots of room above it, it is so easy to get to.
Some engines, like the 1400, have Variable Valve Timing, which is just a mechanism with springs and weights inside, and on the end of the camshaft...pay it no mind if it's ok, as it's not in the way.
Back when I first got this bike, and when I first looked at it, I had read the horror stories, and thought 'wonderful' sarcastically.
Once I got in there, I found the real problem.
These complaints are all voiced by people with little to no experience, and even if they are mechanically inclined, obviously have never worked on bikes before.
The Concours in general is a pain just because of all the layers of fairings...which the sportbikes obviously don't have.
So YES, that Kawasaki design is easier to adjust the valves on.
