If there is any heavy caked on grime, you can use a little dish soap on it too...just make sure it is well rinsed off..
A rebuild process
- Thread starter Sincere876
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Sincere876
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There isn’t just a lot of dust and gravel bits. No oil of any kind anywhere, the tires are dry, wheels and even the body itself is dry. The dish soap idea is good though, that I have a lot of
Uncle Jimmy
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Winter is upon us, so you should take your time and research all that you do to ensure that you are doing things correctly. The stay is a piece of cheap trash. Throw it away and buy what actually fix correctly. If you find yourself having a hard time finding parts, search first and then ask for help. Take the Busa a part and assess all of the damage.
Some of the Chinese fairings out there aren't all that bad and they will get you on the road. Are there plans to paint the tank? If not there are tank covers that come with some fairings-have to be careful when you buy to make sure it is included.
Uncle Jimmy
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I would say that if the tank is in decent shape, wrap it. If not, www.monsterfairings.com
Great point.......always forget about wrapping them...
Sincere876
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That’s really great advice. Living in Florida, we have winter for about 45mins and that’s it
Sincere876
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the tank is in perfect shape, no dents or cracks at all. I planned to wrap it, the plastics I’m still trying to decide whom to go with as everyone has had their good and bad about a specific vendor.
Berlin Germany
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@Sincere876
grin - cleaning
my hint was to pull the entire! swingarm to clean it into its smallest corners
and then you go to grease all! its bearings new and this pls every 4th year (after cleaning em deeply
)
when arm and wheel incl. new 2RS - bearings is in again
pull the fork, disassamble, clean deeply and put in new fork oil (evtl. incl. the seals, when older than ~8 years)
this replacement should be done every 4th year - if the oil is older its greasing ability is more or less only like water.
and, when fork is already out, replace
1st the damn ball bearings in the steering by tapered ones and grease em every 4th year new.
2nd the damn original rim bearings by "2RS" - types
don´t hurry - take time - wintertime is longer than a week
good luck
grin - cleaning
my hint was to pull the entire! swingarm to clean it into its smallest corners
and then you go to grease all! its bearings new and this pls every 4th year (after cleaning em deeply
)when arm and wheel incl. new 2RS - bearings is in again
pull the fork, disassamble, clean deeply and put in new fork oil (evtl. incl. the seals, when older than ~8 years)
this replacement should be done every 4th year - if the oil is older its greasing ability is more or less only like water.
and, when fork is already out, replace
1st the damn ball bearings in the steering by tapered ones and grease em every 4th year new.
2nd the damn original rim bearings by "2RS" - types
don´t hurry - take time - wintertime is longer than a week
good luck
Sincere876
Registered
I’m making notes of all this, thanks for all the info@Sincere876
grin - cleaning
my hint was to pull the entire! swingarm to clean it into its smallest corners
and then you go to grease all! its bearings new and this pls every 4th year (after cleaning em deeply
when arm and wheel incl. new 2RS - bearings is in again
pull the fork, disassamble, clean deeply and put in new fork oil (evtl. incl. the seals, when older than ~8 years)
this replacement should be done every 4th year - if the oil is older its greasing ability is more or less only like water.
and, when fork is already out, replace
1st the damn ball bearings in the steering by tapered ones and grease em every 4th year new.
2nd the damn original rim bearings by "2RS" - types
don´t hurry - take time - wintertime is longer than a week
good luck
Have you kind of sort of thought about what color scheme you're going with yet?
Other than the obvious cost, shopping for all new stuff is fun...kind of like putting together a model or something...
I bought a wrecked bike once as I couldn't resist-it only had 500kms on it...I had it running and mostly put together in a couple weeks.
The guy I bought it off was pissed off he didn't charge me more (I paid $700 for it) but he admitted he could have never fixed it himself and it would have cost an arm and leg to get it done...at the time I was a young, single soldier living in the barracks so had lots of time and money to throw at it.
It was a '86 GSXR 750 Slingshot and I built it right in my room in the barracks as I was in a single room on the ground floor.
I feel your excitement and desire to resurrect this bike....
Sincere876
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I’ve had a few different ideas, it will be black in some context with a secondary color not sure what this will be as of yet. Still mulling ideas of sorts. At this point she is a blank canvas, I get to sculpt her in the way I see. Am I excited hell yea, I love working on bikes and cars but my Benz isn’t a pull out a wrench and work on it type vehicle. I already have my eye on another bike and I’ll have my kids wrench in that one as well
Sincere876
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Decided to get the wash done while I waited for FedEx. Vortex rear stand and a power stands front stand. I order all the maintenance items I needed which should be here in the next few days or so. Going to do the test ride tomorrow as the rain has finally stopped. It’s has a swing arm extension and I double check the torque specs on that, as well as the chain actually seems fairly need and has the inch to inch and a half of play. The plastics will come off Monday and she’ll be naked to see what lies beneath.
Sincere876
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That’s for sure. I sit in my garage after work just thinking of what’s next. Then fedex shows, it’s the correct stay for $51 on eBay
Sincere876
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I got the stay mounted but if you know, there is a hex bolt that you have thread a bolt threw. That mess does not work, so I ended up cutting that clasp that holds the bolt, threading the bolt threw and attaching the bolt on the other side. I added some blue RTV and now it holds up nice and tight.
...or electric vest,etc. For now it will be good to have that 50 dolla 180CCA batt on tender.
Not sure what the crescent wrench (in yer vid) is for. Did you have a jar of pickles to open or something? Don't go near yer Busa again with that thing or me and you...we gonna have words...
How long has the bike been sitting? If its been over a few months you may want to do a couple things,before running it again. Like drain the old gas,fill with fresh and add some injector cleaner and change the oil and filter. Dont cheap out on fuel and oil like you did that battery
Busa's like the good stuff...I only run 94 and full syn Amsoil. Its a personal preference thing,cept maybe the fuel octane rating.The beast has awoken,cool,
Rubb.
Berlin Germany
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following my experiences of more than 30 years i say - be very carful , frugal up to stingy with adding a threadlocker (loctite or so)
it might cause issues in the future when u wanna loosen screws again !
read the manual and only use any kind of lockers where the manual it prescribes.
tightened with the prescribed torque, no screw / nut will loosen.
yes i know
- some of the members here will cry now for 
and 
BUT PLEASE ! have an eye at your clutch no matter if it was a gen1 or gen2 clutch - the issue is always the same at ALL models from ´99 - ´20 - believe in me - i tested it dozens of times and in "999/1000" times mostly the "studs" were not "glued in" like the all manuals tell (prescribe) ya for the situation you renew some things at the clutch basket etc. gen1 at page 3-111 / gen2 at page 5C-18
see, read this page, the pics there and follow the hints !
and fear the sometimes financially fatal consequences / results shown by the pics there.
yes, I admit it - it's a little conspiracy theory, but ...
sometimes i really think the manufacturers want to practically pre-program such immense damage, because why do they describe the gluing-in as a prescription in all busa manuals but do not do this in the factory.
damn - we found not-glued studs and 2 of 6 loosen studs at a 1/2 year old and fresh from the factory , ´14 (k4), gen2 - so nobody should argue against this hint.
Sincere876
Registered
...or electric vest,etc. For now it will be good to have that 50 dolla 180CCA batt on tender.
Not sure what the crescent wrench (in yer vid) is for. Did you have a jar of pickles to open or something? Don't go near yer Busa again with that thing or me and you...we gonna have words...View attachment 1629593
How long has the bike been sitting? If its been over a few months you may want to do a couple things,before running it again. Like drain the old gas,fill with fresh and add some injector cleaner and change the oil and filter. Dont cheap out on fuel and oil like you did that battery
The beast has awoken,cool,
Rubb.
I did buy a battery tender it’ll be here with a few other maintence pieces, waiting for the oil hopefully by Monday I’ll have it. I wanted to a test ride but can’t, she’s dry. I checked the case thinking maybe there was a hole but nothing, but I can there maybe a little in it I’m not wanting to risk taking a 5min ride. I’m not clear as to how long she’s been sitting, the tank at least from the gauge is full, but I’ll need to be drained to be safe. Just like all the fluids which I have on the way.
Sincere876
Registered
following my experiences of more than 30 years i say - be very carful , frugal up to stingy with adding a threadlocker (loctite or so)
it might cause issues in the future when u wanna loosen screws again !
read the manual and only use any kind of lockers where the manual it prescribes.
tightened with the prescribed torque, no screw / nut will loosen.
yes i know
BUT PLEASE ! have an eye at your clutch no matter if it was a gen1 or gen2 clutch - the issue is always the same at ALL models from ´99 - ´20 - believe in me - i tested it dozens of times and in "999/1000" times mostly the "studs" were not "glued in" like the all manuals tell (prescribe) ya for the situation you renew some things at the clutch basket etc. gen1 at page 3-111 / gen2 at page 5C-18
see, read this page, the pics there and follow the hints !
and fear the sometimes financially fatal consequences / results shown by the pics there.
yes, I admit it - it's a little conspiracy theory, but ...
sometimes i really think the manufacturers want to practically pre-program such immense damage, because why do they describe the gluing-in as a prescription in all busa manuals but do not do this in the factory.
damn - we found not-glued studs and 2 of 6 loosen studs at a 1/2 year old and fresh from the factory , ´14 (k4), gen2 - so nobody should argue against this hint.
I saw a video on YouTube about a guy having to torque down some clutch bolts because they started to hit the cover. I want to say he set them down to 7ft/lbs I’ll have to check it again but that sure is on my list
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