Cruise Control installed, comes on but not engaging. HELP

[rusheriv]

No luck with the new relay, still not engaging when set is pressed.
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[Sous]

Is it possible that you damaged the control module in some way while painting it?

 

[rusheriv]

Don't think so, all functions of the control module check out good, LEDs light on servo when buttons are pressed.
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[cqt1414]

installing a true cruise control on a hayabusa, pretty ballzie move.
my Nomad came with it, and under the right situation it is fantastic!

 

[Sous]

installing a true cruise control on a hayabusa, pretty ballzie move.
my Nomad came with it, and under the right situation it is fantastic!

There are several busa riders that have done this mod and been running them for years. If used correctly, it is a great tool.

 

[Sous]

Looking over the diagrams from Captain, did you splice the brown wire into switched 12v source? The diagram does not note this, but I think the brown needs to be spliced into a 12v ignition source.

 

[Sous]

OK, disregard my last post as I think I was over analyzing the diagram. Although, a friend of mine sent me a schematic with the relay pin outs different than noted by Captain. They might be worth a shot if you still have not gotten it to work. They are as follows.

30 - Purple wire from CC
87 and 85 - Brake wire
86 and 87 - ground

 

[rusheriv]

The red wire from the control module is connected to power source (12v switched), not the brown.
The brown wire sends a on/off command from the control module to the servo, it isn't spliced into anything.
The servo has a separate red wire which is also connected to a power source (12v switched).


As far as the relay, that is how I originally had it wired.

 

[Sous]

Just confirmed the pin out below with the friend of mine that is running this CC without any problems. Hope this helps, if not then let us know and hopefully we can get it for you.

30 - Purple wire from CC
87a - Ground
87 - Constant 12v from battery
86 - Ground
85- Brake light wire

 

[rusheriv]

Sous - I'd try that, but I don't think it'll make any difference. My problem is the servo won't engage. By connecting pin 87 to the battery all I would be doing is putting 12v to the purple wire when the coil energizes, reinforcing the fact that the ground is broken, thus disengaging the servo.

The Audiovox install manual does indicate the purple wire will show 12v when the brake is applied, but that is when it's connected to the negative side of regular bulb light.

Right now I have pin 87 disconnected (as Cap suggested), so the relay's only purpose is breaking ground when brake is applied.

For the servo to engage the purple wire has to be grounded, when that ground is broken the servo disengages. Right now I have 87a grounded to the battery.

When brakes are released the electromagnetic coil in the relay is not energized, so pin 30 (purple wire) is connected to pin 87a (ground).

When brakes are pressed the coil energizes and connects pin 30 to pin 87, breaking ground, thus disengaging the servo.

Pins 85 and 86 provide power and ground for the relay's coil, the power & ground connections can be reversed with no effect on the relay's operation.

 

[Sous]

I know that it has been discussed that the dip switches are 1, 4 and 7 set to on and all others set to off, but my friend is going to check his when he gets home. He told me today that his CC did not work and he had to mess with the switches a bit and it has been working fine ever since. I will post up the settings when I get them later today.

 

[rusheriv]

Sous - Appreciate your diligence in trying to help me on this!
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[Sous]

Sure man, I just sent him an email reminding him as I am sure he forgot to look at his dip switch settings.

 

[Sous]

OK brother, he rides a 2009 Concourse 14 and has his dip switches set as noted below.

Switch 1 OFF (May have turned this one on after it not working, but had it off at first)
Switch 2 OFF
Switch 3 OFF
Switch 4 OFF
Switch 5 OFF (Change to ON if speed drops too much before CC kicks in.)
Switch 6 OFF
Switch 7 ON

Now, I know this is nearly the same as what is noted below, but it may be worth a shot.

 

[Sous]

Also, a guy I ride with that has a 2008 FJR has his dip switches set to the following.

Switch 1 OFF
Switch 2 OFF
Switch 3 OFF
Switch 4 ON
Switch 5 OFF
Switch 6 OFF
Switch 7 ON

This set up works fine on his bike as well.

 

[rusheriv]

Sous - Thanks again for the assistance. I'll try the DIP settings you've provided and report back.

My biggest concern right now is that the servo is not engaging, there's no movement of the cable at all! This leads me to think that it's wired in wrong (but I've double, even tripple checked everything) or the servo is defective.

Not planning on riding tonight, so I'm gonna tear into it again. Check voltage and continuity on everything and the different DIP settings.

 

[Sous]

Sounds good man, I am installing mine as we speak, but struggling with where/how to mount the servo. Many have claimed to put it in the turn signal pods, but I am not seeing how they fit, or how to secure the servo once you get it in there.

 

[rusheriv]

Mine is bolted to a stock hole in the frame. I had to change how the bracket was fastened to the servo, sliding it forward so it allowed room for both the servo and vacuum canister to fit on the right side. On the GenI there's no room on the left side, it has the rectifier and grab handle for center stand.

 

[captain]

Are you sure the vacuum lines are right... If the servo is not moving at all then I would think something mechanical..... Are you connected to a good vacuum line. If the lines are backwards nothing will happen just as you are describing..

 

[rusheriv]

The long hose supplied with the kit is tee'd into the hose that collects vacuum from all four throttle bodies. The other end is connected to the canister nipple marked "MAN", the other nipple marked "AMP" is connected to the servo. After running the engine, a brief sucking sound is heard when I disconnected the hose from servo, so it's definitely getting vacuum.