Flashing the 08 / ECU Editing software for GEN II Busas

Just measured one .............. 323 Ohm ................ I run without it but only because i don't like the figures it trys to pull when in closed loop mode. It's always seeking best economy and lean A/F for emssions wheras I'm purely chasing the performance side of things and also dyno time to fine tune light throttle is of no issue to me either. :thumbsup: Once again I think it's just personal preference and once into open loop mode ............ its only extra weight :rofl:
 
Just measured one .............. 323 Ohm ................ I run without it but only because i don't like the figures it trys to pull when in closed loop mode. It's always seeking best economy and lean A/F for emssions wheras I'm purely chasing the performance side of things and also dyno time to fine tune light throttle is of no issue to me either. :thumbsup: Once again I think it's just personal preference and once into open loop mode ............ its only extra weight :rofl:

Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I don't plan on using my stock O2 sensor so will have to fashion my own jumper, radio shack style. :stoopid:
 
hi all bros.

im a big fan of the busa and im currently planning to get a 2nd gen busa.

As im situated in singapore, may i know is there any difference in flashing the ECU of the busa.

Just curious that whether flashing possible for Busa in other regions outside of US especially in Asian countries.

Thank in advance. cheers n happy riding.
 
Skyhaven ............. any chance of sneaking a peek under the seat of a Singaporian Hayabusa and getting the part number / code of the ECU . Would probably be able to answer the question then .............. or anyone else know what it is or would be ? :thumbsup:
 
Gretz,09GraySilverBusa and all
Well what resistor did you get from radio shack?
I looked for a 323ohm on a online electronic part supplier could not find 323ohm
but they have a 390 ohm also what tolerance to use as well ie 1% 5% etc?

Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I don't plan on using my stock O2 sensor so will have to fashion my own jumper, radio shack style. :stoopid:
 
Wire a couple in series to make up value ?
I think the eliminators are only about $15 /$20 to buy
:thumbsup:
 
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Gretz,OB_Boss
Confused on your reply about the value of resistance you measured one
and it was 323ohm's correct.
If so would the 390 ohm resistor work or is that value to much?
Also series would mean end to end correct? ( resistors would be lined up not side by side correct) What would the values of the resistors have to be to get that value
Well i dont mind spending the $15 $20 bucks but if i can hit ratshack and spend $4 5$ and use my sensors end why not I'm not bashful about soldering lol.
Well get back.
maddog


Wire a couple in series to make up value ?
I think the eliminators are only about $15 /$20 to buy
:thumbsup:
 
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HI,OB_Boss
Well thanks for the info.
Looks like i could do it at the shack if they had a 23ohm resistor in stock
would do it in series 100ohm x3=300ohm+23ohm grand total = 323.
If the your Pc Eliminator measurements are right.
Was hoping to hear ya a 390ohm or similar would work but looks like i gotta research it more lmao.
Thanks maddog
P.S. anyone know the wattage of the resistors ie 1\8watt 1\4watt 1\2watt
http://www.bypasskit.com/manuals/739_654T_H01_S01_D01_I_EN.pdf

Not sure on the what would be to little or to much .............. have not experimented down that path. PC Eliminator measured was 323Ohm
:beerchug:
 
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any should work, 1/8 w are pretty fragile though, on most stuff that will get man handled i try and use the bigger the better, usually 1/2w, but whatever works. With 4 resistors on there gonna be messy i'd personally order a plug and go kit :)
 
"If the your Pc Eliminator measurements are right." :whistle:
I'm old but my eyes arn't that bad :rofl:

ps The 3230 in the previous post is a typo it's 323 Ohm ................... told you I was gettin old.
 
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Well here i am in the midst of making the decision about what kind of tuning equipment to buy. Bazazz or PC. I'm bothering HPC with one question after another - should get I just get a bung, should i get the ZFI and the ZAFM....ayadyada-0

What is this flashing all about.?!! What does it do how does it work? I read the first 5-6 pages but it sounds like everyone knows about it already. Why is it such a big deal then? If I get my Bazazz stuff, am I throwing away my money:duh:?
 
Simplified without writing pages here, flashing allows you to adjust fueling, reset limiters, control shifters, NOS and even more basically by re programming the stock ECU
Re throwiing away money :whistle: ................. to go ANY other way especially on a GEN II Busa bar flashing is money spent for no gain what so ever :beerchug:


As they say *SPLASH CASH OR SIMPLY FLASH* Who says that ? :rofl:
 
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Thank you, OB _Boss. I just got done reading back another 20 pages or so. This sounds very complex to a guy who has no more experience other than installing a PC5 with a map already loaded on a different bike. I have yet to find the opportunity to learn to load new maps or use my Autotune on the 14. It almost seems like I should just learn some stuff with the PC on the 14 and leave the busa stock for a while. I wouldn't want to run a full system on the busa without having a map but if there is no sense in buying a Z FI what am i to do? Sucks when you want something but you don't know what you want, really.
 
Another question - Seems like I would enjoy self mapping rather than getting a custom tune. Wouldn't it be beneficial to have the ZFI and ZAFM to self map with and the flasher cable (forgot what you guys were calling it) to do all the derestricting? Flashing isn't going to self tune is what I'm saying(asking?).
 
A few options for you Mythos ............. given the rapid growth of flashing I'm sure you could find some one in your area that you could send your ecu to and they could derestict it. ( I charge $60 for this in Oz) It's Australia wide here allready and I've even sold kits to a gentleman in Croatia (:welcome: aboard Hrvoje) :thumbsup:
Option two is buy a Flash Kit (Boost By Smith) derestrict yourself and then pop into your local dyno shop and ask them to build a custom map your bike for you. An Xtre alone will cost you nearly as much as a flash kit. Mate if you can operate a playstation you can desrestrict yourself it's that easy and if your Dyno man can't work it out ? :whistle: Go to some one who can :beerchug:
 
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