mark3evo
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dial back on the 9 or 10% over optimistic speedo it might make 190 if limiters removed. you can't have it both ways improved bottom and and all out power
Gen 3 Latest report ..
- Thread starter bigdr
- Start date
BusaDawg1
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Let me rephrase the question I've never had a new bike before should I put my own synthetic in it when I get it or ride it with the suzuki oil to break it in ? Would gen 3 come with synthetic oil already when built ? And if not would the dealer allow me to pay extra to have them put synthetic instead ?
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Don’t worry about it, just ride the bike.
when your first oil change comes about, go with whatever floats your boat, they are all good enough provided you adhere to the recommendations in the owners manual.
Mythos
Registered
ZX-14 and busa, 70,000 miles between them, 12 and ten years old, T6 synthetic changed every 2500 miles. The ZX-14 was broke in by the book on Kawi conventional oil. I broke the busa in on Spectro 4 10W 40 conventional changing at 50, 150, 450 and then 950 miles. No large chunks of metal in any of the break in oil changes but some very fine dust. I redlined it on the first ride and ran the motor as hard as I could on the street the whole first thousand miles. No long highway cruising and if I rode the highway at all, I was shifting down to vary the rpm as much as possible. I used Suzuki conventional up to 3000 miles and then Rotella synthetic changed every 2500 miles until now. No problems with that engine. It's still turning hard after 10 years and 16000 miles. My 08 ZX-14 runs good too. The compression was barely in spec at 50k miles though. I've never checked the busa's compression yet.
I always have been told synthetic is a no-no until 3000 miles on a brand new engine but they've been selling new cars right off the lot with full synthetic for a decade or more. It's probably best if you don't wait too long to switch the conventional because it will clean away the grime that has built up from conventional oil and actually might be sealing the engine. The gaskets can leak. This did happen on my ZX-14 and I waited about 7 or 8 thousand miles before trying synthetic. The valve cover bolts were not tight and a leaky valve cover gasket was a common problem with the early years. Updated head gasket and it was fixed. It probably would have leaked eventually even on dino oil but not as soon. All engines leak eventually but synthetic will leak sooner.
I don't think it matters at all what oil it has for break in as long as the oil has the metallic break in particles in it and hopefully no real big pieces. Spectro 4 has metals that are good for the motor dissolved in it right out of the bottle. I used it because I was dumping the molybdenum and other break in metals that came off the engine in the frequent oil changes I did during the first thousand miles.
Sorry, I couldn't tell you what the best tires for break in are.
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As far as the new Gen 3 goes, it will be nice to just have a new Hayabusa on the streets without worrying about it dominating or being better than the older generations...
There is quite a bit of hype about this bike but after all these years it is to be expected.
As there are very few Hayabusas in my area the chances of my seeing one on the roads is going to be very rare...add to the fact people around here could care less about a Hayabusa bike and would far rather have a 4 wheeler makes having a new Hayabusa out there prowling to be less exciting I guess.
There is quite a bit of hype about this bike but after all these years it is to be expected.
As there are very few Hayabusas in my area the chances of my seeing one on the roads is going to be very rare...add to the fact people around here could care less about a Hayabusa bike and would far rather have a 4 wheeler makes having a new Hayabusa out there prowling to be less exciting I guess.
Dopey
Registered
With my gen 2 when I bought it new as much as the dealer wanted to sell me the synthetic oil on my first oil change his suggesting was to get about 3 oil changes in then switch to synthetic so that's what I did for no other reason then his suggestion. I will say i did the second oil change in my buddies busa and went to 4t and he felt like the bike had more "vibration" to him but it is his first bike and he only has about 5k under his riding belt so who's to say if he actually felt anything or just finally wound it out
. I run 4t and put it in everyone's bike, now I will say on my last oil change i just tried a different oil that's a heavier weight so not exactly a fair comparison but I haven't got enough miles to have any feelings about it yet. I obviously didn't need the heavier weight but since it's was easily accessible at work I figured why not try it.
Another oil thread.With my gen 2 when I bought it new as much as the dealer wanted to sell me the synthetic oil on my first oil change his suggesting was to get about 3 oil changes in then switch to synthetic so that's what I did for no other reason then his suggestion. I will say i did the second oil change in my buddies busa and went to 4t and he felt like the bike had more "vibration" to him but it is his first bike and he only has about 5k under his riding belt so who's to say if he actually felt anything or just finally wound it out
Linky
I believe it will really be hard to improve on the Busa platform now the electronics are up to par. Same would apply to a Euro5 ZX14 should that happen.
Want a bike that is best at only one thing, buy a 1K, they are all pretty close up there. The H2 is really a niche, no good sales.
Want a bike for all purpose use which is pretty good at just about everything, but not necessarily the best at one single thing? The new Busa holds the crown.
Want a bike that is best at only one thing, buy a 1K, they are all pretty close up there. The H2 is really a niche, no good sales.
Want a bike for all purpose use which is pretty good at just about everything, but not necessarily the best at one single thing? The new Busa holds the crown.
Telboy2000
Registered
Got mine this morning... Racked up 90 miles and love it.... Some backward moves function wise with the adjustment and view in the mirrors but otherwise its every bit a hayabusa.
Returned 43.1 uk mpg on a true mix of open roads and stop start town traffic so I'm happy.
Returned 43.1 uk mpg on a true mix of open roads and stop start town traffic so I'm happy.
Congrats!!!!
43.1 UK mpg = 51.76 USA mpg
That is about what I got on my gen 2 before they started putting ethanol in our gas and blended buthane to adjust the RVP.
Enjoy!!!!
Four oil changes before a thousand miles and then changing synth every 2,500 miles is a huge waste of good oil. And no ”large chunks” during oil changes? Really? And where do you get that (somehow) synth oil will leak before dino oil? Oil doesn’t leak on its own, gaskets and seals deteriorate regardless of the type of oil inside.ZX-14 and busa, 70,000 miles between them, 12 and ten years old, T6 synthetic changed every 2500 miles. The ZX-14 was broke in by the book on Kawi conventional oil. I broke the busa in on Spectro 4 10W 40 conventional changing at 50, 150, 450 and then 950 miles. No large chunks of metal in any of the break in oil changes but some very fine dust. I redlined it on the first ride and ran the motor as hard as I could on the street the whole first thousand miles. No long highway cruising and if I rode the highway at all, I was shifting down to vary the rpm as much as possible. I used Suzuki conventional up to 3000 miles and then Rotella synthetic changed every 2500 miles until now. No problems with that engine. It's still turning hard after 10 years and 16000 miles. My 08 ZX-14 runs good too. The compression was barely in spec at 50k miles though. I've never checked the busa's compression yet.
I always have been told synthetic is a no-no until 3000 miles on a brand new engine but they've been selling new cars right off the lot with full synthetic for a decade or more. It's probably best if you don't wait too long to switch the conventional because it will clean away the grime that has built up from conventional oil and actually might be sealing the engine. The gaskets can leak. This did happen on my ZX-14 and I waited about 7 or 8 thousand miles before trying synthetic. The valve cover bolts were not tight and a leaky valve cover gasket was a common problem with the early years. Updated head gasket and it was fixed. It probably would have leaked eventually even on dino oil but not as soon. All engines leak eventually but synthetic will leak sooner.
I don't think it matters at all what oil it has for break in as long as the oil has the metallic break in particles in it and hopefully no real big pieces. Spectro 4 has metals that are good for the motor dissolved in it right out of the bottle. I used it because I was dumping the molybdenum and other break in metals that came off the engine in the frequent oil changes I did during the first thousand miles.
Sorry, I couldn't tell you what the best tires for break in are.
Telboy2000
Registered
Shoot, you are right!!! That was just a senior moment.
LOL, another oil controversy and another harsh reply as always.
One correction though, oil formulations play a large role in preserving gaskets and seals. Keep using oil which has oxidized some by either age or formulation deficiency and your seals will start goin poof.
You are correct though, provided certain conditions are met. A bike stored in a closed garage and not subjected to short idling times or runs can get by with the same oil for plenty more miles and plenty more years.
BusaDawg1
Registered
You lucky sob!!! Can we get a centerfold?
Dopey
Registered
so is it worth the jump in price
Mythos
Registered
The first four changes were expensive oil too but it's just for the break in to see if anything alarming comes out and to be sure the oil is in tip top condition. I changed filters each time too. Worth it for my peace of mind. Nope, no large chunks at all ever to this day. You're not saying one should expect large chunks? The finer the better it would seem and probably the less the better.
Rotella does not last more than 2500 miles in my bikes. More expensive synthetic oils probably will last longer although I've only tried one which only lasted about 500 miles before it seemed like normal oil. Repsol T6 it was. Probably made for racing where oil is used for one or two events. Clean oil is good oil. I'd rather have fresh oil more frequently then expensive oil that sits for 5000 miles. Rotella is as cheap as dino oil so I see no reason to not use it instead of dino oil if I'm changing in 2500 miles anyway.
Synthetic oil flows through seams more easily than dino oil. I've heard this ever since I took an interest in this sort of thing 13 years ago and I'm quite sure a couple decades earlier than that too. Google it. You'll probably find a good number of posts here on the forum if you do a search. Yes gaskets deteriorate and oil that flows more readily will seep past them easier. All engines leak eventually, engines with synthetic oil will leak sooner.
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How do you know the oil went broken after 2,500 miles?
For the record, initially synthetic oils and seal compatibility was an issue, but that goes far beyond 30 years ago. Today it is the opposite, as the more expensive oils normally have a more expensive additive package. The seal theory is a total myth.
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