Gen 3 Latest report ..

jellyrug said:
How do you know the oil went broken after 2,500 miles?

For the record, initially synthetic oils and seal compatibility was an issue, but that goes far beyond 30 years ago. Today it is the opposite, as the more expensive oils normally have a more expensive additive package. The seal theory is a total myth.
Click to expand...
The shift feel with Rotella T6 or dino suzuki oil starts to get notchy around 2500. Kawasaki oil in my ZX-14 same thing. Shifts may miss too. Rotella is done at 2500 miles at least with a wet clutch.

I'm glad to know that synthetic oil now contains additives that prevent it from leaking as readily as it once did but it appears there's also the cleaning factor to consider if the engine is older. If the motor has run on dino oil a long time, it probably has a buildup of grim in the seams of the motor. Switching to synthetic will tend to eliminate that and the grime may be responsible for sealing some seams in the motor.

All I know is I noticed the notorious Gen1 ZX-14 valve cover leak some time pretty soon after trying Repsol T6. Hard to say if it had started before the Repsol, the motor had a rubber cover on it when new. It's also hard to say if conventional oil wouldn't have done the same thing eventually. Seems pretty likely the synthetic oil leaked worse than dino if the leak started with the dino oil.

Another thing, do you want the rings to slide more easily on a brand new engine or do you want them to file down the cylinder honing ASAP? Synthetic is more slippery than dino.
 
macka said:
so is it worth the jump in price
Click to expand...
Honestly i'd say 90% of the price hike is down to the market ...almost every bike has leapt about 10-20% in the last 18 months. I was expecting it to be around the £14k region until i noticed the overall market rise.
Hike aside its still a lovely bike to be on and for the money there isn't much about that can do what it does.
Basic street bikes are now where the Busa price was..
I still feel its going to be a tough choice for anyone with a fresh 2013 onwards Busa to take the plunge unless rider gadgets above all else means everything to them.
For me I wanted a sporty bike that worked 2up and didn't need giraffe legs to get on and i came right back to a bike that feels every bit as much fun as my 1st Busa 15yrs ago whilst offering improvements in almost every area...i really miss the under seat storage of the Gen 1.
Time will tell if the Gen 3 can hold its value...my 3rd Busa is now owned by my ex-brother in law.. a 2012 model and he's been offered £7k for it in a private sale... not bad when he bought from me for £8.5k 7 yrs ago.

I'll be out for another run 2up in tomorrow ( yes i'll get a pic or 2 ) and see what if anything needs adjusted or tweaked .... i would however recommend to anyone getting the silver bike to buy the tank protector ... my textile jacket alone left a small graze on the tank today and i reckon it won't take long to pick up stone chips and you can't polish stuff like that out with the matt finish....then again I didn't buy it as bling to show off and never ride.

Looking forward to a solo ride soon when i can experiment a bit more than a 2up ride allows.
 
Telboy2000 said:
Honestly i'd say 90% of the price hike is down to the market ...almost every bike has leapt about 10-20% in the last 18 months. I was expecting it to be around the £14k region until i noticed the overall market rise.
Hike aside its still a lovely bike to be on and for the money there isn't much about that can do what it does.
Basic street bikes are now where the Busa price was..
I still feel its going to be a tough choice for anyone with a fresh 2013 onwards Busa to take the plunge unless rider gadgets above all else means everything to them.
For me I wanted a sporty bike that worked 2up and didn't need giraffe legs to get on and i came right back to a bike that feels every bit as much fun as my 1st Busa 15yrs ago whilst offering improvements in almost every area...i really miss the under seat storage of the Gen 1.
Time will tell if the Gen 3 can hold its value...my 3rd Busa is now owned by my ex-brother in law.. a 2012 model and he's been offered £7k for it in a private sale... not bad when he bought from me for £8.5k 7 yrs ago.

I'll be out for another run 2up in tomorrow ( yes i'll get a pic or 2 ) and see what if anything needs adjusted or tweaked .... i would however recommend to anyone getting the silver bike to buy the tank protector ... my textile jacket alone left a small graze on the tank today and i reckon it won't take long to pick up stone chips and you can't polish stuff like that out with the matt finish....then again I didn't buy it as bling to show off and never ride.

Looking forward to a solo ride soon when i can experiment a bit more than a 2up ride allows.
Click to expand...
well congrats on the joy of a early xmas present, it in it will grow on you just like any other new bike
first things first get the front and rear sag set up, get some stone gaurd film on the fairings
 
I plan on changing mine every 2k or so and most people should too just saying if they ride hard like I do and never had any problems knock on wood... so no oil politics necessary ! I no joke used Mobil 1 racing 4t 10w40 here in florida with Mobil 1 gas have been for 10 years in 10 bikes but just wanted to know if any better oil has came out since that works great with busa at high rpm to keep her cool and smooth I have a buddy that uses motul 300v 10w40 and he swears by it since I change every 2k or so he said give it a shot... so just got me thinking is all and it's only a little more....Amazon $60 a gallon so only $20 more then Mobil.. cuz I will be putting 600 miles the weekend I get it going to the keys and back from Orlando and time for a oil change then to the dyno!
 
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Mythos said:
The shift feel with Rotella T6 or dino suzuki oil starts to get notchy around 2500. Kawasaki oil in my ZX-14 same thing. Shifts may miss too. Rotella is done at 2500 miles at least with a wet clutch.

I'm glad to know that synthetic oil now contains additives that prevent it from leaking as readily as it once did but it appears there's also the cleaning factor to consider if the engine is older. If the motor has run on dino oil a long time, it probably has a buildup of grim in the seams of the motor. Switching to synthetic will tend to eliminate that and the grime may be responsible for sealing some seams in the motor.

All I know is I noticed the notorious Gen1 ZX-14 valve cover leak some time pretty soon after trying Repsol T6. Hard to say if it had started before the Repsol, the motor had a rubber cover on it when new. It's also hard to say if conventional oil wouldn't have done the same thing eventually. Seems pretty likely the synthetic oil leaked worse than dino if the leak started with the dino oil.

Another thing, do you want the rings to slide more easily on a brand new engine or do you want them to file down the cylinder honing ASAP? Synthetic is more slippery than dino.
Click to expand...
My Busa shifts silk smooth every time after I have cleaned it. When it is dirty it shifts terribly. The brain is an emotional thing.

I change my oil approximately once every four years at 5,000 miles and have it analyzed. Every analysis the TBN suggests I could easily do another 5,000 miles. On a Busa motor ( mine anyway ) the iron and copper levels in the oil at 5,000 miles is way below general automotive averages.

Mobil 1 on my bike used once, 10w40 changes to a 30 weight oil within 500 miles, as it loses viscosity fast due to an inexpensive additive package. Even that is still OK though.
 
Yeah I'm gonna go with motul 300v or 7100 I see there is a 300v2 now crazy... I change before 3k everytime and go warp speed alot so just wanna treat it right since it's new...
 
jellyrug said:
My Busa shifts silk smooth every time after I have cleaned it. When it is dirty it shifts terribly. The brain is an emotional thing.

I change my oil approximately once every four years at 5,000 miles and have it analyzed. Every analysis the TBN suggests I could easily do another 5,000 miles. On a Busa motor ( mine anyway ) the iron and copper levels in the oil at 5,000 miles is way below general automotive averages.

Mobil 1 on my bike used once, 10w40 changes to a 30 weight oil within 500 miles, as it loses viscosity fast due to an inexpensive additive package. Even that is still OK though.
Click to expand...
Shifting from 2 to N instead of all the way into 1 isn't mind over matter. Rotella doesn't allow for 100% reliable shifts on my bikes after 2500 miles. Conventional oil is the same way. Before installing the APE tensioner on my ZX-14, the OEM CCT would rattle longer and longer at startup as the oil got older. I don't think that was much of a performance problem but it went away as soon as I changed the oil.
 
Yes I do miss the graphics weird they went plain this time... I did notice prices went back up to retail for the few that had it at 17500 now all back to retail and no pre order stuff now they must be selling well...
 
Check this out miami says pre order special $340 for 84 months is over 28k hott damn what a deal ... gtfoh!

Screenshot_20210404-012723_Cycle Trader.jpg
 
You know it's getting bad when you watch IOM TT videos before you go to bed every night... both wheels off the ground at 160 is unreal.
 
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