GEN 3 starting issues

Same. Always thought a kill switch is intended to turn all power off, so the engine, in an emergency. Hence it's big and red.
No point having key ignition if the makers wanted the kill switch to be used as such.
Idk
I use both the kill switch or key at times and never really thought about it...

I used to teach students to use the kill switch to shut off the bike because technically you don't have to take your hands off the bars....then once the bike is shut off, reach over and turn the switch....

I've been doing this for several (over 40) years with zero issues...
 
I use both the kill switch or key at times and never really thought about it...

I used to teach students to use the kill switch to shut off the bike because technically you don't have to take your hands off the bars....then once the bike is shut off, reach over and turn the switch....

I've been doing this for several (over 40) years with zero issues...
Agree ^

Most of the time I also turn mine off with the kill switch - reason being that using the kill switch you
will know as soon as it stops working and get it replaced. NEVER using it - in an emergency or accident
that is not the time to find out that your kill switch isn't working!
 
You guys do know that using the Kill Switch can be added to:
How to properly break-in a motorcycle.
The best tires.
The best oil.
etc. :D

(Go to a Harley Board and mention even touching the kill switch - for any reason.)
A motorcycle engineer designed the kill switch for a reason...if they put it on there, I will use it....

I'm not too cool to use a device that shuts off my bike...

This the same Harley board that thinks their bikes are fast and handle well?
 
I'll bet that's not in the owner's manual under starting....

It is. Clearly my expectations are too high lol.

On 2-83, "Use the following procedure to start the engine". "Make sure that the transmission is in neutral." Yup, that works half the time for me. When it's the top-most prescribed method, I expect it to work 100% of the time dangit. :laugh:

No matter, just happy I seemed to have stumbled onto a method that works every time for my machine.

As for kill switches, anything goes! I turn my bikes off in all sorts of ways. Key, kill switch, kickstand in gear, 1st gear clutch pop kill, lock rear brake in 1st gear to a slide stop. I think that's about it. Never had any problems... that I couldn't fix.
 
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has anyone experienced a starting issue with the gen 3 when engine is at running temp, if turned off from kill switch and then turned back on ,getting symptoms of a flat battery till it eventually kicks in and starts ,
I just bought the Sword Silver model and had a restart problem just 17 miles away from the dealer. It took about 4 restarts to finally fire up. Funny thing about it, it was intermittent and battery voltage on gauge cluster was reading 10.1-14.3. After several days of this intermittent starting problem, the dealer replaced the battery with a new one that was NOT from Suzuki. They said it wasn’t unusual for the manufacturer batteries to malfunction because they are sealed at time of production and there’s no telling how long it’s been on a shelf without cycling. Once they installed the new battery, voltage is solid at 12.4-14.4 and no repeat of start malfunction. I wouldn’t have believed it if it didn’t happen to me because batteries don’t perform intermittently. But that’s what did it.
 
Suzuki has no idea... Brought mine in for warranty work for a stator that is leaking oil, talked to the service manager about the starting issue, he never heard of that issue. He talked to the suzuki rep and this is what they tried pawning off on me and I'm not buying it..

Made client aware to use name brand high octane fuel and try to purchase fuel in other areas not same area as may have same fuel delivery supplier.

I have only used premium gas from Gulf, Shell and Mobil. He cant tell me why it cranks slow due to a gas issue. I need to get through the oil leak issue before they want to try to resolve the hot start issue. I thought it was a battery issue too, but I put in an Antigravity ATZ-10 battery. Same crap.
 
Suzuki has no idea... Brought mine in for warranty work for a stator that is leaking oil, talked to the service manager about the starting issue, he never heard of that issue. He talked to the suzuki rep and this is what they tried pawning off on me and I'm not buying it..

Made client aware to use name brand high octane fuel and try to purchase fuel in other areas not same area as may have same fuel delivery supplier.

I have only used premium gas from Gulf, Shell and Mobil. He cant tell me why it cranks slow due to a gas issue. I need to get through the oil leak issue before they want to try to resolve the hot start issue. I thought it was a battery issue too, but I put in an Antigravity ATZ-10 battery. Same crap.
That's not good. It happened to me again today. At a railroad crossing I switched the engine off with the key (not via kill switch, precisely due to this issue). After about 30 seconds I tried to re-start it, unsuccessfully. Turned off and on again with the key, it fired up, but still, far from ideal experience.

I hoped a battery change would solve this, but according to your report it doesn't.
 
WGAF:
My '20 KTM 1290 SAS was one of those: Did the hard starting kill the battery, or did the battery cause the hard starting? Anyways, a NOCO lithium seemed to have solved it.
My '18 BMW Grand America: Starter 'whirring' / not engaging when cold - at times. Sprag Clutch replaced under warranty.

My Gen 3:
Started about 8 times with NO problem while running errands. Late that night, I Hill-Hold stalled in my driveway after about a 2-mile ride home and the problem was the worse that I've experienced. I let it self-crank for a long time since I was already home.

0715221548_HDR.jpg
 
For the 2005 I run the ATX 10 antigravity lithium battery, and for the 22 I'm running the same one as the generation two bikes, ATX 12 anti-gravity lithium.
The ATX 12 is a half an inch taller than the stock battery. No problems fitting it under the seat? (I just ordered one).
 
Agree ^

Most of the time I also turn mine off with the kill switch - reason being that using the kill switch you
will know as soon as it stops working and get it replaced. NEVER using it - in an emergency or accident
that is not the time to find out that your kill switch isn't working!
I would just say muscle memory. I think I read somewhere these new electronics will kill the engine if it lies down sideways, but your thumb needs to remember how to kill it instantly if it ever needs to.
 
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Actually 3/4 of an inch and if you space the bracket underneath the saddle downward it'll fit. Also if you have an aftermarket saddle they usually come a little higher. I also cut a square in the bottom of the saddle plastic.

My corbin came much higher.:thumbsup:
 
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The ATX 12 is a half an inch taller than the stock battery. No problems fitting it under the seat? (I just ordered one).
If you’re going to spend the money, I’d recommend one that is considerably stronger CCA. I got rid of the antigravity on my Gen-2 because it just couldn’t keep up.

 
If you’re going to spend the money, I’d recommend one that is considerably stronger CCA. I got rid of the antigravity on my Gen-2 because it just couldn’t keep up.

Now you tell me! But 480 should tide me over. (I almost bought a 500cca NOCO Lithium NLP14, because I thought it was sexy as hell and the price and size was right, but their webpage wouldn't take the order. The Antigravity is good for peace of mind if I ever do develop a current drain on the bike...)
 
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Now you tell me! But 480 should tide me over. (I almost bought a 500cca NOCO Lithium NLP14, because I thought it was sexy as hell and the price and size was right, but their webpage wouldn't take the order. The Antigravity is good for peace of mind if I ever do develop a current drain on the bike...)
My 14 NOCO came through the big A. They have their own store there. So far, it's been great and sits off of the charger for a lot longer than my other bikes can.
 
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