MonkeyButtRides
Registered
That's a good idea, it seems to mostly happen going from 1-2 if not always.I have commented early on about the QS issue and for me I just clutch 1-2 and QS everything else with no issues.
That's a good idea, it seems to mostly happen going from 1-2 if not always.I have commented early on about the QS issue and for me I just clutch 1-2 and QS everything else with no issues.
Still apples to oranges, the BMW GS series has been around since the '70s and has gone though many evolutions since it came out. In the beginning it was like a robust "army Jeep" and could take a real beating, only from what I've heard through the old timer BMW owners, the new ones will not take the beating nor are they user friendly when it comes to maintenance or repairs. Both bikes in "Long Way Around" broke in half, which is something the old bikes would not have done.Why do you consider the BMW GS not an established and robust bike?
30 years of GS and “In May 2009, the 500,000th GS was produced, an R1200GSmodel.“ is not enough for the GS to be considered an established and robust bike?
In my opinion it is both, and much more than Hayabusa.
People on GS make hundreds of thousands of km and they run their bikes all over the world, sometimes in very bad conditions, including off-road.
I don’t consider ok what Suzuki did with Gen 3 Hayabusa quickshifter, and the other issues that some of you have have.
But I still love it.
I’ve had my bike dynoed by CM$ and when we discussed the tuning he mentioned that even the QS fix he has isn’t 100%. I don’t believe it’s something he is personally responsible for it’s just something in the tuning that he can manipulate… somewhat..
I was super appreciative that he was honest and upfront that it could or could not fix my issue and I elected to leave mine alone.
I have commented early on about the QS issue and for me I just clutch 1-2 and QS everything else with no issues.
I do run TC 1 but as MonkeyButt mentioned about the TC I’m going to give that a try.
I agree,No, there is no perfection.
Gen1 and 2 Busas had minor to no issues.
Now several gen3's are basically lemons.
I don't know what you're used to, but when I buy something new...I expect it to work.
If clutch bolts back out from no factory thread locker(gen2), that's an aggravation, but a simple fix.
If the QS won't shift correctly, it doesn't want to restart hot, and the brakes fail...that's some BS...Suzuki is responsible to fix it, and expecting those things to work is Not expecting 'perfection'.
I'm seriously glad your bike works, but am upset for those whose doesn't.
I'de also Really like to go get one...but no way, Murphy's Law says I get the junk bike too.
I know me...and I'm not about to deal with that.
Suzuki's upper management has proven themselves clowns on this one.
F them all.
My comment on catastrophizing was me trying to acknowledge your feelings about all of this. I hear you, I see you, I acknowledge you and your feelings. I don't care about Suzuki management.If you don't think randomly failing brakes on a 2nd year bike is a catastrophe...I don't know what is.
Again, I do Not want to hear of Anyone hurt in a crash from this, but it seems that's what it may take to get people's attention. But, it will also be very hard to prove.
The whole point of all my griping is that Suzuki has become like so many others...a bunch of care less, do nothing, worthless bastards.
I'm rewiring my bike because I am a fan of onboard electronics. I just want ones that will get me down a drag strip vs cruising around comfortably. I'm also looking for complete tuning control so that's not a normal use case.
It feels like you're catastrophizing, I hear you and agree nobody wants to deal with spending a lot of money on new stuff and have issues. I can't comment on Suzuki Management but I do hear you.
My comment on catastrophizing was me trying to acknowledge your feelings about all of this. I hear you, I see you, I acknowledge you and your feelings. I don't care about Suzuki management.
If you guys want to figure this out then follow the data. It can all be reverse engineered.
Maybe it's how the ECU is controlling the throttle valve opening as noted in the Service Manual screehshot below. You can replicate the signals sent for the entire QS process until you determine where the defect is. If it's a defect in the code of the ECU it can be updated. This is exactly what Greg is doing for the MaxxECU stuff. Maybe the delay won't happen with the Maxx which would basically prove it to be the ecu if all of the other components are unchanged.
View attachment 1659830
Maybe try Mode 2 first and see if it still happens. If that's the fix then all of the negative emotions and poop talk are for nothing.
Either way I choose to protect my own well-being and not get upset with KTM or Suzuki. Again KTM had way more issues and cost more.
This delay happened so few times to me I never even thought to mention it to my best friends who ride with me.
That was one of the first things I tried. Still happens, for me it happens far too often.Maybe try Mode 2 first and see if it still happens.
If it was mechanical, it should happen every time with or without a QS.
All tuning with a Woolich does is give the tuner the ability to map certain tables. The overall ecu program is going to be compiled source code just like any other application. Woolich doesn’t give access to the source code.
I just found this open source ecu so you can see what source code for an ecu looks like.
GitHub - rusefi/rusefi: rusefi - GPL internal combustion engine control unit
rusefi - GPL internal combustion engine control unit - rusefi/rusefigithub.com
Code for a MAP sensor:
rusefi/map.cpp at master · rusefi/rusefi
rusefi - GPL internal combustion engine control unit - rusefi/map.cpp at master · rusefi/rusefigithub.com
I promise Suzuki source code is more complex than that open source project.
The Gen 3 ecu code has logic that executes the QS function, which is to cut ignition momentarily. The main goal of regular people like us is to figure out what component isn’t working. The input sensor, ecu, or the output the ecu is controlling. Per the service manual it states “and the ECM controls the ignition timing, throttle valve opening, and the fuel injection volume to be injected”. These are the three outputs that the ecu has a programmed response for based on the QS input.
If changing the input sensor to a Woolich or other brand QS doesn’t fix the issue then the problem is downstream of that sensor. Either in the ecu or the outputs it’s controlling from the QS input.
That’s sounds more like a lift control or traction setting issue.On mine, it's either going to N from 1 to 2 on hard acceleration or the engine bogging even with the nannies turned off.
I get an LF indication in 1 or 2 regardless and the engine bogs for a moment and then suddenly goes full power, which is always a surprise and makes me hold on to dear life.
If not, the bike wheelies from 2 to 3 on Mode A. Such an unpredictable bike. I've learned to like it. It's like winning a mini-lottery every ride.
Do I get full acceleration from 1 to 2 or an LF light? Do I stay in gear or go to N and have to slow down to a stop in order to safely engage 2?
Will the bike keep the front wheel down or lift it close to redline from 2 to 3? Ha-ha! At least the front brakes haven't acted up anymore after a week or more of not moving the bike.
Yeah. Thing is it doesn't go away when I turn off all the nannies in a custom map.That’s sounds more like a lift control or traction setting issue.
Honestly guys I think the brake fade is caused by the abs. I think the valve isn't programmed correctly. It's also like it's in the open position when off so it seems like brake fade but it's not.... Half tempted to unplug the abs and delete the code to see if it stops. Very random when it does happen.
Yes I agree my gen 3 clutch will open about 2 to 3 times longer than normal before it closes it only happens at full throttle at high rpms like 7000Thats not the problem i know how to use it is the QS sistem it has a delay
what I found was that traction control being ON seems to give the weird additional engine kill on QS, usually in the 1-2 change, if you turn TC off an try again you might see it just shifts and goes.