InfiniteReality's Gen3 Build

I feel ya on that, I think I'll be happy with B mode and can easily switch to Mode A. BUT I definitely think they should fine tune the off idle throttle to be more stock-ish. Or at least offer the option of drag racer vs street tune, it seems like half the tunes they send out are likely for street bikes?
I bet the majority of flashes are for street bikes, with alot being roll racers, and that many more just parking lot pimps.
I get where most sportbikes have gone today, unfortunately, but I've grown tired of the lowered, stretched, single rotor brake, cookie cutters with ear bleeding exhausts.
It's mostly all roll racing and arguing paper numbers.
Leaving a tree, dragging a knee, a controlled wheelie or a stoppie are almost unheard of anymore...the skill is gone.
 
If my Hayabusa has a kid, does that make me a grandfather?

I tried to buy a no fluids ever 06 Honda NSF100 but price went too high. I search for them from time to time for a project to make street legal, but this time I had the idea to possibly put aftermarket NSF bodywork on a Grom. Which it was feasible, but would never handle like it looked....then while looking for NSF bodywork I came across this thing.

2022 Kayo MR150R. Track bike, 150cc, normal or MotoGP shifting. It's from overseas, but people seem to like them. I had average expectations for quality of parts, but was wrong. Sitting on it everything is super solid. All controls feel OEM. Bodywork is thick and solid, kelvar reinforced mounting spots and mounting is simple yet robust. Quality of gelcoat is decent, better than expected. Could sand mold lines and polish.

Will see no track time, one of the main reasons for the purchase was to push myself with drawing and printing in 3D. I will also go thru the vehicle registration process and get it plated. I bought it as a long term project to be built up as such, a street legal mini MotoGP. Do a legit full build starting with 3d scanning the bike so I can make inner dash panels that'll include modern TFT gauges. Will design winglets, taillight with bezel, R1M/Panigale style headlights, seat base, etc. Will add some real tech to the bike using the MotoGadget Mo.Unit Blue, when I walk up it'll recognize my phone and allow me to start it. Signal fading, brake modulator with settings for both, built in alarm, digital fuses, loads of stuff. I measured everything and started locating parts that will or could be modified to fit.

Upgrades to install:
Aluminum +0 swing arm
Aluminum subframe
Fork legs ends
Electric start w/ LiPo
Clip ons
BBK for front
14mm radial MC
Ti front/rear rotor bolts
Rearsets

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What size motor is that? Be cool to develop your own color scheme with sponsors. I was looking at getting some track skins with Geritol as my sponsor at one time, haha. Can we get a picture with you on it for scale?
 
If my Hayabusa has a kid, does that make me a grandfather?

I tried to buy a no fluids ever 06 Honda NSF100 but price went too high. I search for them from time to time for a project to make street legal, but this time I had the idea to possibly put aftermarket NSF bodywork on a Grom. Which it was feasible, but would never handle like it looked....then while looking for NSF bodywork I came across this thing.

2022 Kayo MR150R. Track bike, 150cc, normal or MotoGP shifting. It's from overseas, but people seem to like them. I had average expectations for quality of parts, but was wrong. Sitting on it everything is super solid. All controls feel OEM. Bodywork is thick and solid, kelvar reinforced mounting spots and mounting is simple yet robust. Quality of gelcoat is decent, better than expected. Could sand mold lines and polish.

Will see no track time, one of the main reasons for the purchase was to push myself with drawing and printing in 3D. I will also go thru the vehicle registration process and get it plated. I bought it as a long term project to be built up as such, a street legal mini MotoGP. Do a legit full build starting with 3d scanning the bike so I can make inner dash panels that'll include modern TFT gauges. Will design winglets, taillight with bezel, R1M/Panigale style headlights, seat base, etc. Will add some real tech to the bike using the MotoGadget Mo.Unit Blue, when I walk up it'll recognize my phone and allow me to start it. Signal fading, brake modulator with settings for both, built in alarm, digital fuses, loads of stuff. I measured everything and started locating parts that will or could be modified to fit.

Upgrades to install:
Aluminum +0 swing arm
Aluminum subframe
Fork legs ends
Electric start w/ LiPo
Clip ons
BBK for front
14mm radial MC
Ti front/rear rotor bolts
Rearsets

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Looks like a fun project...kind of reminds me of a Yamaha YSR80 from back in the day...

I've seen a couple videos of youth racing these in a mini GP series....
 
I whopping 150cc, 5spd. When it's time to paint, it'll very likely get some sort of livery or a combo of them and probably off some of the the Italian -schemes.

I'll see about pics, wife hasn't noticed it just yet, lol. Daughter has though, but only when I removed the bodywork. I feel like I don't look too ridiculous on it, the cockpit is remarkably roomy. The seat is as well since it's so wide.

I need to start a build thread on it so I can log the adventure.
 
Any interested in a MiniGP building.

After running Mode B for a couple hundred miles, WAY more happy with slow speed maneuvers. Mode B does allow for flames and bangs if you're into that.

Using Mode B for flames and bangs actually makes "breathing" on the throttle much easier to consistently make the flames/bangs on command since the throttle input isn't as sensitive.

Finally getting around to learning the Insta360 some. Following Ked, used the 8mm RAM ball to replace what use to be called the frankenstien bolts. The RAM extension is close to the trim, but clears it. The X3 is an awesome camera, software is legit good, but high speed audio of exhaust it fails at. Here's a flame video from the way to work Monday, honestly it sucks because without the shotgun bangs it makes for a really boring video. I'm 3d designing a mic mount to mount where the license plate normally mounts, hopefully get some better audio. Also will use the pole next time for full frame of the bike. I really don't think I'll ever own another single lens action camera again, there's no point when you can get 360deg of video.

 
Any interested in a MiniGP building.

After running Mode B for a couple hundred miles, WAY more happy with slow speed maneuvers. Mode B does allow for flames and bangs if you're into that.

Using Mode B for flames and bangs actually makes "breathing" on the throttle much easier to consistently make the flames/bangs on command since the throttle input isn't as sensitive.

Finally getting around to learning the Insta360 some. Following Ked, used the 8mm RAM ball to replace what use to be called the frankenstien bolts. The RAM extension is close to the trim, but clears it. The X3 is an awesome camera, software is legit good, but high speed audio of exhaust it fails at. Here's a flame video from the way to work Monday, honestly it sucks because without the shotgun bangs it makes for a really boring video. I'm 3d designing a mic mount to mount where the license plate normally mounts, hopefully get some better audio. Also will use the pole next time for full frame of the bike. I really don't think I'll ever own another single lens action camera again, there's no point when you can get 360deg of video.

My U2 is setup as B with the more agressive QS and find it much more enjoyable around town or on the freeway at normal speeds.
 
New spring tool even worse, but apparently got lucky with aligning fingers on my old one first shot today. Swing arm officially installed and bike lowered, spring's powdercoat injured, lol.

I recognize this guy, he supplies the sensor extension. Reminds me I need to order something from him.

Ordered rear line today, said should ship out today as well.

Finally back on it's rear stand, header time late tonight maybe.

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Was revisiting your thread and just realized there is no rectifier near the dog bones. Where does it live on gen3 or did you relocate yours?
 
Could use some advice.....

I have a new front tire waiting to get put on, but the plan has always been to change wheel/bottle color at the same time. spring 2023. I miissed my opportunity, but don't know if I'm just getting lazy with these 100-101deg days (per bike cluster), become partial to Shocker Yellow & white combo or just really rather ride.

Should I......
- make the effort to pull both wheels, remove tires, get them redone, add bearings and get tires back on - won't be able to ride for a week or so, cost $250ish
- just pull the front wheel and get a new tire on and ride, cost $40ish. When time for a new rear tire, go through the effort to change colors.

The new color will NOT be a loud color, much more subtle and the original color I intended until I wanted something unique for a bit.
 
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