SRP Stage 1 Build - GHOSTRIDER
- Thread starter BUSA GHOSTRIDER
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BUSA GHOSTRIDER
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Wow nice pics and nice write ups. Can't wait to see how it runs. Just curious though, where is a good source to read up on turbos and all the stuff that comes with it (the different gauges, parts, how they work, what they do, etc.)? I always seem to get lost whenever people talk turbo stuff
I think you can find a lot of good info here on this site! You have some great people to talk to here about whatever you are looking to do. Take a look at some past builds that people have posted up on the forum.
Other than that check Google / Wikipedia for the basic principles.
Also give this one a try:
Suzuki Hayabusa.org
sportcustoms71
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me likey likey 
killerrudy
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My kit is in the hands of Brown right now! Where did u get the awesome header bolts?
BUSA GHOSTRIDER
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Also took this one from BigRod. I did some checking around and tried to locate the same kit for a 4 cylinder engine. The kit for the 8 cylinder engine is only $5-$10 more so I figured that it would be worth it to have some extras.
I had to modify the clips on the underside of the header. There is very little clearance for the bottom bolts. The instructions indicated that this mod would work just fine so I used the four 90 degree tabs. I had to shave a flat spot in three of them and actually shave all the way into the open lock ring for the bolt located bottom right (as if you were sitting on the bike).
Take a look at the pic below. You will see the way I positioned the 90 degree tabs on the bottom bolts. There are only 4 of these in the kit. The ones that are marked in red are the ones I used on the top but marked like I had cut for the bottom. I put the extra unmarked to show you (and it’s hard to see) that the center hole is actually offset in the teardrop. I used the skinny side on all of my bolts, it just worked out better. My buddy pointed this out half way thru and I had to go back and redo a few, just a heads up.
I had to modify the clips on the underside of the header. There is very little clearance for the bottom bolts. The instructions indicated that this mod would work just fine so I used the four 90 degree tabs. I had to shave a flat spot in three of them and actually shave all the way into the open lock ring for the bolt located bottom right (as if you were sitting on the bike).
Take a look at the pic below. You will see the way I positioned the 90 degree tabs on the bottom bolts. There are only 4 of these in the kit. The ones that are marked in red are the ones I used on the top but marked like I had cut for the bottom. I put the extra unmarked to show you (and it’s hard to see) that the center hole is actually offset in the teardrop. I used the skinny side on all of my bolts, it just worked out better. My buddy pointed this out half way thru and I had to go back and redo a few, just a heads up.
piratediverjefff
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Got mine(Stage 8)at a Speed Shop in Santa Ana,but probably a shop closer to you...NEVER have to worry about them coming loose!
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BUSA GHOSTRIDER
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Installed the radiator along with the wideband sensor. Installed the temp. relocator in the right side coolant hose.
The third pic is the installation of the PCIII. I did a little test fitting and found that it should fit under the seat with a little more than 1/4 inch of clearance.
The third pic is the installation of the PCIII. I did a little test fitting and found that it should fit under the seat with a little more than 1/4 inch of clearance.
BUSA GHOSTRIDER
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I had a problem closing the tank with the little breather filter that I had purchased from AutoZone so I ordered the low profile breather cover from MPS. I also figured that this should give me a little more room under the tank for the fuel pump and the inline fuel filter that I purchased.
The second pic is the fuel rail. I ordered the fuel T from MPS and threaded the fuel pressure sending unit right into the rail.
The second pic is the fuel rail. I ordered the fuel T from MPS and threaded the fuel pressure sending unit right into the rail.
BUSA GHOSTRIDER
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I did as much asking around as I could and received some excellent advice on the forum from individuals much smarter than myself when it comes to building projects like this and have come to find out that the oil feed situation that Steadman uses might not be the best way to go about feeding oil to the turbo. I have gotten a couple of opinions and from what it sounds like I would most likely have absolutely no problem running the feed from where the kit originally intended. Now on the other had I have been informed that the oil from this location may not be filtered, or at least not freshly filtered. With this in mind I decided to give Richard a call at RCC and order the oil feed fitting for the left side of the motor that is supplied by the main galley. Because this is how the RCC kit is done and from what other builders and tuners on this forum have indicated I believe this will be a safer route to go with feeding the turbo.
I simply purchased a plug from Lowes for the oil block off that is threaded for an elbow and relocated the elbow to the new fitting on the side of the motor.
I still need to remove the case cover to tighten the elbow into the fitting. I found out that it contacts the case cover when you try to spin it in.
I simply purchased a plug from Lowes for the oil block off that is threaded for an elbow and relocated the elbow to the new fitting on the side of the motor.
I still need to remove the case cover to tighten the elbow into the fitting. I found out that it contacts the case cover when you try to spin it in.
Ludicrous Speed
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Looking good, and nice progress being made!
But for as much as you are calling RCC for support, you should have just purchased his kit. After reading the forums, I would never buy a kit from Steadman, regardless of how much I saved. You cannot put a price on good tech support!
I find it humorous that Richard is answering questions on someone elses kit that you chose over his
But for as much as you are calling RCC for support, you should have just purchased his kit. After reading the forums, I would never buy a kit from Steadman, regardless of how much I saved. You cannot put a price on good tech support!
I find it humorous that Richard is answering questions on someone elses kit that you chose over his
Ludicrous Speed
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I meant to say, humorous that he is spending so much time answering questions.
Good cust service right there!
Good cust service right there!
BUSA GHOSTRIDER
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Looking good, and nice progress being made!
But for as much as you are calling RCC for support, you should have just purchased his kit. After reading the forums, I would never buy a kit from Steadman, regardless of how much I saved. You cannot put a price on good tech support!
I find it humorous that Richard is answering questions on someone elses kit that you chose over his
This is the point that I am trying to make. If I had to do this all over again I would have just sucked it up and purchased the kit from RCC paying the extra K. Steadman sent me the wrong wastegate (you can see it's chrome in the pics on page one) I sent it back over a month ago and still have not received my red anodized one. I know that it will get here but they just have no concept of customer service. Every time I call no one knows what is going on there. If you call Richard you get an answer immediately and the parts he has shipped me have come in a timely manner.
Not trying to bash Steadman just telling it like it is. You need to know this before spending money and getting yourself into this situation. All I can say is that I hope people learn from my mistakes and that's why I'm posting this.
BUSA GHOSTRIDER
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FINALLY got the red anodized wastegate and I am going to try to hit it pretty hard this weekend. I've been draggin my feet lately with all kinds of other stuff going on but now I don't have too many more excuses.
Here is the wastegate installed. The only issue I have with it is that the fitting coming out the back of the wastegate is extremely close to the header. Doesn't matter how I spin it, it's the bolt head on the banjo style fitting that I connect the vac/boost line to that looks like it's touching. Do any of you know if the wastegate will rotate on the exhaust flange?
Here is the wastegate installed. The only issue I have with it is that the fitting coming out the back of the wastegate is extremely close to the header. Doesn't matter how I spin it, it's the bolt head on the banjo style fitting that I connect the vac/boost line to that looks like it's touching. Do any of you know if the wastegate will rotate on the exhaust flange?
Loosen the V-band and rotate that gate counter-clockwise to bring that fitting close to the motor, and point that fitting 180 degrees the other way (so it is pointing "out" towards the fairing, and slightly down after the gate is rotated).
That will do it . . .
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