SRP Stage 1 Build - GHOSTRIDER

[BUSA GHOSTRIDER]

After getting my housing ported by Frank at Powerhouse (GREAT JOB BY THE WAY!!) I reinstalled the system and started moving on again.

After some fierce debate about the amount of room left under my tank my buddy that has been helping with this build suggested this....... Two Adel clamps off of the back of the oil pan. Pretty good spot and it doesn't look like it will interfere with the fairings at all. The only drawback will be the extra hose needed to run from the tank to the pump and the pump to the rail.

I was a little hesitant to try this but after stepping back, taking a look or two, it seems to be a great idea. We wired up the pump and started on the tank.

 

[BUSA GHOSTRIDER]

Everything had been removed from the tank that needed to be previously so I took some time and wired up the connector for the external fuel pump. I installed a quick disconnect between the pump and the tank so if I need to take it off again there will be no need to cut wires.

 

[BUSA GHOSTRIDER]

After talking with Frank I went out and bought an in-line fuel filter for the setup. He suggested an AC Delco or something like that.

I ended up at Advance Auto and picked up a Purolator fuel filter, Part # F33173.

I cut some heat blanket to wrap around the filter and a circular piece for one end, I used some double sided tape to secure it all in place and then heat shrunk the blanket on the filter. I was really happy with the finished product and just have to hook it up when installing the tank.

 

[BUSA GHOSTRIDER]

Ok, so this is what I had been putting off for so long.

I started to figure out where the gauges would go. I wanted to go with them hanging off the windscreen but after considering the possibility of vibration, cracking the windscreen, and running wires to an odd location I just fell back on the Tiger Racing gauge panel.

At first I was opposed to this idea but I figured that I would give it a shot.

Now I have to give you a little heads up on this gauge panel. I don't want to bash Tiger Racing but the quality was not what I expected. When I received the gauge panel in the mail it was warped from shipping. I thought this was a little odd for 0.125 sheet metal so I took a closer look. The panel appears to be jetted out of O-metal, or metal that has not been heat treated, so it bends extremely easy. This may be designed this way but I was not happy with it so I made my own. It was done entirely by hand, which took a little bit of time, but I am much happier with the 2024-T3 that I used.

I also had to open the holes a bit larger than expected due to the AEM gauge sleeves that I used on the back of the gauges. It's an extremely tight fit with rubber between the gauge and the metal.

 

[BUSA GHOSTRIDER]

A little more work to install this thing than I originally anticipated but I was really happy with it once I got it all together.

I ended up just attaching the panel where the two large washers were located directly under the front two nuts for the top clamp but this was a little more labor intensive than I figured. There's a stand-off for the ignition wires that is attached to the ignition itself. This piece of metal interfered with installing the panel where I wanted it so I had to disassemble the top clamp to pull it out of there. After this was removed there was no problem getting the panel where I wanted it. I just ended up making sure that the wires were secured with some zip-ties.

 

[BUSA GHOSTRIDER]

This is where I was really out of my league, wiring, but had some great pointers from some electricians at work.

I did this 3 times and it got more and more complicated as it went on.

This is where it ended up...... I hope I can explain this right.

The gauges that I am using need both a Switched power source and a Constant power source. The LED light kit on my bike needs a Constant power source or it will not work without the ignition in the on position. My 7 in. LCD screen needs a Switched power source so this is the route I went.

I added a circuit breaker panel to the bike that is powered by a 10 ga. wire. Now in order to get this panel to power only with the ignition I picked up a relay from Advance for $5. The whole ordeal is powered by a terminal block that has two power posts and two ground posts. This way I can hook directly up to the terminal block for Constant power and to the circuit breaker panel for switched power. The only down side is that I have to run an in-line fuse for the Constant power off the terminal block.

I could have used two breaker panels, but there is only so much room back there in the tail.

Let me know what you think. This is my first attempt at wiring on my own.

I just finished this and will have to zip tie wires together and clean up the look but you get the idea of where I am going with it. This is only one gauge so far but I also have my LED's on the terminal block along with the battery tender plug. I figured this would be a good spot for it as well.

 

[gsx1300rr]

That looks great! Nice work.
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[Boosted Cycle Perf]

What kind of gauges are those?

 

[BUSA GHOSTRIDER]

GlowShift Red Digital. Fuel Pressure, Boost/Vac, Wideband Air/Fuel.

 

[BUSA GHOSTRIDER]

I also trimmed down the new FMU bracket that I made so it doesn't stick out the front of the tank and painted it black.

 

[killerrudy]

I am liking your progress. I saw the pic of where u plugged the oil return into the pan. I am thinking about changing mine. I am getting oil backing up into the turbo quite often. I will get some pics up of what my idea is this weekend if I get a moment. Way to busy with work right now to get to it.

 

[BUSA GHOSTRIDER]

That would be great. Try to get a couple pics up of what your thinking. That's been something that has been in the back of my mind for a while now. I know I can't do anything for the drain before gettin it running and finding out if it backs up or not.

I figured if I have any problems with it leaking I would take it in and have a fitting welded on but I'm not sure what to do if it doesn't drain properly. I just followed the pics that I had the best I could for location and crossed my fingers.

 

[killerrudy]

That would be great. Try to get a couple pics up of what your thinking. That's been something that has been in the back of my mind for a while now. I know I can't do anything for the drain before gettin it running and finding out if it backs up or not.

I figured if I have any problems with it leaking I would take it in and have a fitting welded on but I'm not sure what to do if it doesn't drain properly. I just followed the pics that I had the best I could for location and crossed my fingers.

I used some lock-tite and high temp silicone(at the pan) on there because because it had backed off after a little while when I first put it on. Other than that Mine does not leak on the ground.....just thru the seals.... But I think it is just because of the angle of the 90 where it goes into the pan. I want to get a hard 90 to use instead. I am not liking how big of the bend the earls take for then 90. Like the one provided for the bottom of the fuel tank. When i used that black threaded nut and put on the 90 it was barely allow me to close the fuel tank. (almost hitting the case breather) I will get some pics of what I did instead. I have lots of room now and can open and close my tank without binding at all.

I would be somewhat hesitent to put the pump down there. Just that it is not protected as much.? I am sure it would be okay....doesn't matter. I am babbling now.. to much coffee.. Well, I get some pics of mine and see what u think Lookin good though. Like the gauges.

 

[dadofthree]

 

[BUSA GHOSTRIDER]

I'm not too worried about the safety of the pump in that location. If the pump gets hit by something that would do an amazing amount of damage I'm gonna have a few more problems than just replacing that pump.

I'm pretty sure the bottoms of both fairings and just about the entire oil pan would have to go before something gets to that pump.

If you get a chance please post a couple pics of the underside of your tank. I haven't hooked that up yet and would like to know if there's an easier way to get everything closed. I tried to close the tank with just the line attached to it and it seemed to hit everything in there before going down. I've got the low profile breather cover which will help but if you have a better way I would love to see it.

Thanks for the help!

 

[texas-buzzard]

I moved my pump to the area between the frame and trailing arm to eliminate vapor lock. it is protected and solved the vapor lock problem.

 

[BUSA GHOSTRIDER]

Pics ??

 

[texas-buzzard]

pict.

 

[BUSA GHOSTRIDER]

I like that! I originally tried to put it in that hole but couldn't get it in so I abandoned it early on. I guess I could have taken the fittings and lines off to get it in but my buddy was concerned about the pump in that location with the compression of the rear shock. I'm a pretty big guy and if I ever ride two up I didn't want to worry about smashin it. It looks like it's past the pivot point so I guess that you'll never run into any problems like that.

I feel a little better about it being secured with adel clamps rather than zip ties but I really do like the look of that. It looks to be in a safer location than mine. Thanks for the pic.

 

[texas-buzzard]

Yes you are right about the ty-wraps. i used them temporarly to see if the location would stop the vapor lock, and it did. i will find a better way to secure it. the hp side of the pump is approx. 5/8 in from the chain so the pump needs to be very secure. it is a long way from the rear shock.