The starting problems start!

I want to thank you guys for your information and your patience in helping me with this problem. Im new on this forum, and everyone is very welcoming.

Yesterday i traded the new battery in for another. And i traded my charger in for a digital trickle charger with .75, 1 and 1.5 amp settings with auto off, and a .01 amp storage current. Digital readouts and LED's tell you when its charging, charged, or bad.

I left it on the charger last night and after doing a load test, this new battery is alot stronger than my other one.

Later today im going to take all the associated cables off, do an ohms test on it, and upgrade any cables that are questionable with some higher gauge cable and connectors. Im going to remove the starter, pull it apart, and inspect it. Then take some scotchbrite, and polish up the copper and any bad black areas.

I will report what i find. Thanks for all the good advice.
 
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starter-1.JPG


starter-2.JPG
 
Well, if you are going to pull the starter, then you can pull the battery, pull the cables off, and bench test the battery/starter. Why tear it down with 4 grand on the speedo? Starters last longer than the engine.

Because you are running D-C, you will not get a shock. So the trick is to install the hot side to the starter post, and positive side to the battery with the heavy cable.
Then take the ground cable, install that on the battery. Reason being, the arc will spike at the lead battery post and melt it down. Whereas, if you stab the case of the starter, that arc will just tag the ground cable. But, the better idea is to use a nut and bolt through the ground cable so the arc ruins the head of the bolt, not the cable eye.

And when you touch the starter case, you hold the starter motor or it will torque and spin that positive lead to ground or jump around and there goes the garage. So, if you rather arc your work outside with the battery, cables and starter, you will not get a shock once you see that spark come off the case.

Like I said, you can run that starter till the battery voltage drops. If she spins, there is no reason to disassemble it. Once that starter grows hot in your hand and wants to slow down (with 12v humming away), then I'd say you have a starter problem.
 
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Thanks for the info busawhipped.

I saw the link earlier in the thread with the online manual. Only problem is im on a miltiary computer and the link is blocked. My only link the the internet at home is through my blackberry storm and it says the file is too large.

So its very helpful when you cut and paste this for me.
 
I went home during lunch today and installed my fully charged "12.8v" brand new duralast battery. Bench tested under 300amp load to be perfectly good.

The bike started right up. It after it warmed up, it was at 14.7 dead consistant volts and at 5k rpm dropped to 14.3v no fluctuation. After a few minutes idling and volts dropped to 14.2 and 13.8 respectively at the exact same rpms.

After running 3-4 minutes i cut the bike off. The battery voltage was 12.3 Hit the starter, it was weak, voltage dropping to 8 while starter engaged. The starter turned the bike over about 4 revolutions and stopped straining killing the lights. Repeated this same symptom 3 more times and got lucky. The bike rapidly spun over a few seconds and fired up. Let it run a few seconds. Cut it off, battery voltage now 12.1, would not start again.

No ****ing way i got 2 bad batteries. but ive never seen a battery die like that with it being 14 volts with the bike running.
 
amazing.... good luck with this... you might get lucky and hit the problem but my guess is this is going to get $$ before you finish..
 
Mr Bogus said:
amazing.... good luck with this... you might get lucky and hit the problem but my guess is this is going to get $$ before you finish..
Click to expand...

It will only cost me what it will take to fix what is broken.

Im not paying someone to trouble shoot this. Im too capable. Busawhipped gave me the specifications i was asking for and this evening i will be testing these systems. Im not going to buy what isnt broken.
 
On line manuals provide full troubleshooting directions on the starter circuit, charging circuit, etc. Bad starter. When it heats up it drags.
 
I found 23 different threads associated with "Hot/Starting" and nearly each and everyone has the exact same issue i have. Every reply to those threads give the same 4 things to check, (cables, battery, starter, rectifier) then the threads end. No solution, no "hey i fixed it!" So i PM'd every person that had the issue to find out the fix action. Hoping to get some replies tonight.
 
Viperam said:
I found 23 different threads associated with "Hot/Starting" and nearly each and everyone has the exact same issue i have. Every reply to those threads give the same 4 things to check, (cables, battery, starter, rectifier) then the threads end. No solution, no "hey i fixed it!" So i PM'd every person that had the issue to find out the fix action. Hoping to get some replies tonight.
Click to expand...

I noticed no resolution to those too.
Great if you post up what is was for them and what it is for you. :thumbsup:
 
2busa said:
Because you are running D-C, you will not get a shock. So the trick is to install the hot side to the starter post, and positive side to the battery with the heavy cable.
Click to expand...

Brother DC kills just as fast as AC, but because it's less than 50 volts he should be alright; well as long as he doesn't do the testing while sitting in a tub of salt water; anyway there's other hazards associated with car / bike batteries, that store a massive amount of energy and could seriously injure.

Bottom line be careful when dealing with a battery.
 
Hi everyone , same happens to my bike same year 2003 after replacing 2 batteries one day go out for a ride and smoke start to come out of the rear tail thanks God I was near home when I take off the rear tail the voltage regulator got fried and melted part of the epoxy that cover the electrical components , replaced the voltage regulator and the problem was corrected
I hope you solve the problem soon good luck.

and :welcome:
 
bandito said:
Viperam,

Here's my recent experience, for what it's worth. Mine was acting just like yours, giving trouble starting only when hot. I disconnected cables at battery, starter and starter relay, cleaned everything (all connections looked OK). Removed and dismantled starter, again no problems found. Put back together and so far (two trips over the weekend to get it hot), it cranks with no problem after it is hot. Only difference was a good cleaning of the terminals at the battery, starter and the starter relay.

Good luck with yours.
Click to expand...

I had the same symptoms and simple cleaning of all connections between battery and starter did the trick. Although I took the starter apart while I was in there, it was fine. I've been commuting all this week, and checking after every ride (while it's hot) to see if the starter will drag, and thankfully the problem is solved.
 
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The term "hydrolic compression"is out of the question?Just thinking!I have change a starter motor and a battery to my motor boat(Mercruiser 4.2 lits)because of that reason.I was thinking I had a weak battery or faulty starter but finaly I discover the problem(sea water) inside a combustion chamber(just one ...of six)High compression can be caused from...liquids(of any kind) insight the chamber......closed valve(s)...bad cam timing.Just a thought......Hope is something more simple though :please:
 
alakso said:
Are you making any progress Jeff? Keep us posted.
Click to expand...

Yeah!, A guy from another riders forum i posted this thread on, recognized my screenname and my truck from yet another forum. Out of the blue, he says, "Jeff you want me to walk over there and take a look" We are both military stationed at the same base.

He has a self built 1397 drag bike that he is converting back over for street and tracks with curves. He walked over to my house last night and hung out for an hour. He gave a 30 minute 9000 point visual inspection on the entire bike. Pointing out various **** i wouldnt have noticed. Guy seems to know his ****!

Tonight we are taking the bike apart and hes bringing all the parts over to, Adjust chain, lower an inch w/Dogbone and spacers, pair valve removal, small box mod, maybe install "Brocks?" full exhaust with high swept megaphone, spark plugs, install HID kit, custom seat, grips, and a **** load of other things i cant remember.

On to the problem, We think its down to cable or rectifier. Hes seen the problem and confident it will be fixed this weekend. And with the mods, were doing he says it will feel like a different bike.
 
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