TonyM995 Gen 3 Build

Any movement or exercise is good. I can’t wait for warm weather to be out walking and hiking more again. Muay Thai has put muscle on me that wasn’t there when I was just doing cycling and Brazilian Jiu jitsu. So that’s bad for going fast. Hopefully I can lose some weight by summer. Tony Wintertits right now :laugh:

We walk and hike alot too, and do a few easy miles a week on bicycles...and prefer it to be a little warmer for all of it as well.
And, jiu-jitsu will humble you quickly, lol
 
We walk and hike alot too, and do a few easy miles a week on bicycles...and prefer it to be a little warmer for all of it as well.
And, jiu-jitsu will humble you quickly, lol
With most things, it is the person behind the discipline not the discipline which will humble you.

Just looking out the window right now and it looks as though getting exercise in the form of snow shoveling will not be a problem...
 
With most things, it is the person behind the discipline not the discipline which will humble you.

Just looking out the window right now and it looks as though getting exercise in the form of snow shoveling will not be a problem...

Agreed
I know a couple of guys that I wouldn't get anywhere near...and I've met some with fancy belts that do little more than hold their gi closed, lol.
The only guy that I ever really competed against anyway was myself.
My dad told me when I was young "No matter how big and bad somebody is, or you become, just remember, there's always somebody bigger and badder waiting around the corner".
I keep myself in shape, and train my basics for the 'what-ifs'. I walk away whenever possible, and have not been in a real fight in many years.
I never look for trouble, avoid anywhere it may be, and keep my circle small.
The fun of sparring went away with my youth, I don't need any added aches and pains at this point, lol.
And, I am happy to hear that you'll get to use at least one of the yellow things in your garage, and that an old soldier can still work a shovel, lol...have fun with that sir!
 
Wonder how much is different

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@greg3852 a harness like that wouldn’t make the hard parts easier. I’d have to cut off half the connectors and would still have to figure out the same connectors I’m dealing with now.

For a plug and play option nothing would beat a Boost By Smooth option. Greg knows what’s needed and has the skill to do a good job.

Reality is I haven’t been working on it much and that’s okay. I’ll get it done. I’ve signed up for a 5 day training at Fueltech next month even though I’ll probably have the bike running by then. The first 3 days are on tuning and the last 2 are on wiring from scratch.

Work is my #1 priority and takes a lot out of me. After that I have to excercise and keep my home clean/orderly plus take care of my cat. This project has to be lowest on my priority list. Severe depression tries to keep me down but I have the skills necessary to get this all figured out. It’s just going to take a while and a lot longer than many others would take.

Today I’m off work but still put in an hour to gather logs I had generated. Did 40 minutes of cycling and went on a short hike to keep my cat happy.
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I’m breaking it down by harness.

Spark pro and wideband are on the bike, concentricly twisted and ready to have sleeving put on and connectors crimped.

The “A” harness is labeled, twisted into two separate harnesses and mocked up so it’s ready for loom sleeving and connectors.

The “B” harness got labeled this week and I’ve started to twist it up. A harness is blue on the right, B harness is on the left.
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I don’t know how to terminate all of this into the MSD relay so it looks professional.

I’ve updated my cart now that I have an idea on what size and how much sleeving I need. I’m just guessing on how much wire I need and don’t have the handlebar connectors mapped out still.

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I was thinking about buying this $20 one from a hobby store.

I selected the “clean cut” sleeving but they still say it should be cut with a hot knife lol.
Cool worth a shot for 20
 
Maybe I should just buy this one for $60. They sell Tesa tape too. Hate to pay $20 shipping but the company Techflex sells expensive bench ones so hopefully this handheld will work good enough.

I feel like if I buy the $20 one and it sucks then I’ll just have to buy the $60 one anyway which would then cost me $80. Pay now or pay later is what I’ve found to be true.

 
Maybe I should just buy this one for $60. They sell Tesa tape too. Hate to pay $20 shipping but the company Techflex sells expensive bench ones so hopefully this handheld will work good enough.

I feel like if I buy the $20 one and it sucks then I’ll just have to buy the $60 one anyway which would then cost me $80. Pay now or pay later is what I’ve found to be true.

There you go, I have a bench one, was 100 or something, should have bought it 15 years ago LOL

If it works well and you are done with it ill buy it used
 
Looked in the Service Manual and the fan has a 15 amp fuse, the fuel pump has a 10 amp fuse, and the starter relay has a 30 amp fuse. I’m using the stock starter relay and cables.

They have a tefzel amperage chart:

Which has a link to this wiring page:

On that page there is a link to this wiring calculator:

They state for 15 amps, 16 gauge is good for 4.5 ft and 14 gauge is good for 7.29 ft.

I’m thinking I’ll buy 16 gauge as I think from the MSD relay to the fan is around 4 ft.

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I can’t think of anything else to buy for wiring supplies. Once I place the order I’ll be ready to start making harnesses.
 
Adel clamps, Panduit clips? It's the cable management that will make everything so much easier and make for a really clean install!
 
I realized right away that 22g is too small for the coils and injectors.

Blue is from the ecu and green is 16g tefzel. The small red is 22g tefzel and the monster red is the cheap 18g I bought from a local race car store locally.
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So I went back to reading manuals and what David told me plus his video on how to wire the MSD relay.

Switched 12 volts will be coming out of the relay with 20 amp protection. So when the on/off switch is turned on I’ll get 12 volts for things like the injectors, coils, etc.

For the coils I have a Spark Pro 4 and the manual states 20 amp max current. 14g is good for 5.5 ft of length so I’ll order 25 ft to have a bit of extra length.

Fuel injectors- the manual says 5 amps and David says he uses 18g from the relay. The stock wiring diagram has a 10 amp fuse so I used 10 amps in the calculator. I need 4 ft of wire for each injector and 18g is good for 4.3 ft @ 10 amps. I’m ordering 50 ft of that and will use it for the tether and on/off switch.

I like to draw stuff out still:
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I think the socket marked o/w from the start/stop switch can be 22g because it’s just triggering the relay.

Thoughts? The math seems correct to me. All of the other wiring I’ll use 22 gauge except the fan. The green 16g is for the fan.

I’ll place a $200 order for this stuff soon hahaha
 
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at least through the stock wiring, the starter signal that comes from the ECU to the solenoid is a ground output not 12V like the older bikes (which were button controlled). On the stock stuff, 12V signal from button to ECU, then ECU decides if starter can be used and uses a ground. Are you going to add the neutral switch, clutch, kickstand safety into the starting circuit? Not using the fueltech push button start?
 
Thank you so much Greg!

I have kickstand and clutch switch on my spreadsheet but a while back David said he mostly doesn't use the FT start button. I'm going to use it and have to figure out how.

It looks like I can use "Shift P position" for the kickstand and the neutral switch/clutch switch for the safety options.

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He told me a month ago what size wire to use for the outputs and I was still figuring it out last night, my bad but I'll have a very nice document for others when I'm done with this project to use. :)
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