What did you do to your other motorcycle today ?

Now that you are almost done everything......time to move forward on the old Gixxer which more near and dear to my heart...

I wager that is going to be a real beast when done....

Well, it runs good and it's getting there, and I guesstimate it's about $1500-$1800 away from being where I want it to be.
I have a big new parts pile already.
I plan to start on it soon too...but...
If yall remember the 50cc Polaris I was working on, well...I still am, lmao.
Reason being, the compression was around 90psi(near death), so I got a new piston and cylinder, which were junk.
After that was finally refunded, and I found a quality non oem piston, my Dad bored the cylinder to the first oversize.
He brought it back yesterday, and with the '18 gsxr1k off of my table...the 'mini-poo' is back on it, and I organized everything so it's ready to start on.
So, as soon as I get time, it'll Finally get done...Then to the '03 Gsxr1k.
I want to teach my girlfriend's 13 year old son how to do it all too, so it'll take a little longer.
Performance wise, it'll just get All maintenance and TB sync, a reuseable air filter, probably just a slip-on muffler(because full exhaust is $$$!!!)
A Heal-Tech Smart TRE, as the 03-04 ecu cannot be flashed or upgraded.
A sprocket tooth/gearing change, and
possibly a Heal-Tech QuickShifter.
The Gsxr1k is like the Busa in that they are my favorite bikes, but never really ever being a fan of the 03-04 model.
So, depending on how I feel about it when it's done, I'll either sell or trade it...or keep it and put dirtbike bars on it.
But...I Do Need Gen3 money...
lol
 
Also
I had never worked on this style of transmission, where it can be removed from the engine, with the engine still in the frame, and the cases not need split.
It is a Very good design, and is Very easy to work on.
And, I feel like quite the expert, as I've done this job 3 times now! lmao!
Reason being, no clutch function after putting it all back.
So, back apart it all comes, and disassemble the transmission again.
I did this all 3 times to no avail.
Every time, everything was correct.
WTH??!!
Any of us that have done a clutch before know that you must adjust it after a new install, at the pusher/center of basket, and sometimes the lever or adjuster mid cable.
But, the clutch looks and measures like new, I wasn't in there to work on the clutch, it was just in my way and had to come out...so Everything will go back as is and not need adjusted...right?
....Kind of.
It turns out(lucky me) that I am fortunate to usually find all the unlikely flukes that you only hear about, and you think can't happen...lol.
Why? Well, it turns out that the clutch pushrod wasn't long enough to push the pressure plate out from where it was currently sitting, so, the set-screw in the pusher(in the center of the basket) had to be threaded in/lengthened, to make contact with the pushrod, allowing the clutch to function.
I adjusted it too tight on purpose, then backed it out, so that I had just enough lever free play, and I didn't have to adjust it at the lever or line either.
I was holding the hex with a wrench, and tightening the phillips head set screw, and counting the turns.
Guess where I ended up at?
If you said 'back where you started'...yep!
But why? How?
Because; even though assembled correctly, the adjuster had to be moved so the pressure plate could push out, from the inside of the engine, and let the clutch springs snap it back into place...which seated All the plates enough, allowing the clutch pack to settle correctly into position.
The reason this one was a pain, is anyone's guess.
The real reason they are a little more tempermental is because they are a slipper clutch, and on a slipper, the pressure plate does not move straight out and in, it rotates some, almost like it turns a quarter thread as it moves in.
That can make it hard to get the plates to seat completely...unless you adjust it first.
This adjustment is Always the final step on a new clutch too, because old plates wear thinner, and new ones are thicker, so there's a stack height difference.
But, with the same parts going back, there is no adjustment needed....usually, lol...unless you get lucky like me...and have to adjust it...to get it adjusted back where it was!
So there you have it, just another unusual bit of info that can hopefully help someone some day.
Before I figured it out I asked our resident expert Suzuki Tech @Kiwirider if he had ever seen anything like it, to which he had not, so I felt a little better...then alot worse when I figured out that I couldn't see the forest for all trees,
And sorry Greg...had to take you down with me, lmao!!
 
Also
I had never worked on this style of transmission, where it can be removed from the engine, with the engine still in the frame, and the cases not need split.
It is a Very good design, and is Very easy to work on.
And, I feel like quite the expert, as I've done this job 3 times now! lmao!
Reason being, no clutch function after putting it all back.
So, back apart it all comes, and disassemble the transmission again.
I did this all 3 times to no avail.
Every time, everything was correct.
WTH??!!
Any of us that have done a clutch before know that you must adjust it after a new install, at the pusher/center of basket, and sometimes the lever or adjuster mid cable.
But, the clutch looks and measures like new, I wasn't in there to work on the clutch, it was just in my way and had to come out...so Everything will go back as is and not need adjusted...right?
....Kind of.
It turns out(lucky me) that I am fortunate to usually find all the unlikely flukes that you only hear about, and you think can't happen...lol.
Why? Well, it turns out that the clutch pushrod wasn't long enough to push the pressure plate out from where it was currently sitting, so, the set-screw in the pusher(in the center of the basket) had to be threaded in/lengthened, to make contact with the pushrod, allowing the clutch to function.
I adjusted it too tight on purpose, then backed it out, so that I had just enough lever free play, and I didn't have to adjust it at the lever or line either.
I was holding the hex with a wrench, and tightening the phillips head set screw, and counting the turns.
Guess where I ended up at?
If you said 'back where you started'...yep!
But why? How?
Because; even though assembled correctly, the adjuster had to be moved so the pressure plate could push out, from the inside of the engine, and let the clutch springs snap it back into place...which seated All the plates enough, allowing the clutch pack to settle correctly into position.
The reason this one was a pain, is anyone's guess.
The real reason they are a little more tempermental is because they are a slipper clutch, and on a slipper, the pressure plate does not move straight out and in, it rotates some, almost like it turns a quarter thread as it moves in.
That can make it hard to get the plates to seat completely...unless you adjust it first.
This adjustment is Always the final step on a new clutch too, because old plates wear thinner, and new ones are thicker, so there's a stack height difference.
But, with the same parts going back, there is no adjustment needed....usually, lol...unless you get lucky like me...and have to adjust it...to get it adjusted back where it was!
So there you have it, just another unusual bit of info that can hopefully help someone some day.
Before I figured it out I asked our resident expert Suzuki Tech @Kiwirider if he had ever seen anything like it, to which he had not, so I felt a little better...then alot worse when I figured out that I couldn't see the forest for all trees,
And sorry Greg...had to take you down with me, lmao!!
I wonder how many modern bikes (other than HD) have the cassette style transmission...

The RG500 had one, I remember a friend of mine had to have his replaced under warranty once and it was a pretty easy change.
 
I wonder how many modern bikes (other than HD) have the cassette style transmission...

The RG500 had one, I remember a friend of mine had to have his replaced under warranty once and it was a pretty easy change.

Based soley on engine appearance, and not knowing everyone's model year break down, I would say that all of the big 4's engine's look like this design from around 2015 ish.
The easy way to tell is how high up in the engine case the front sprocket/output shaft is.
I'm really suprised that the gen3 didn't get this design, just based on a road race and drag race perspective, on how quick and easy a transmission gear change is, vs pulling the engine.
But, again, that would've added alot of expense, and to a price that most of us already don't want to pay.
 
I wonder how many modern bikes (other than HD) have the cassette style transmission...

The RG500 had one, I remember a friend of mine had to have his replaced under warranty once and it was a pretty easy change.
To this day I don't understand why the manufacturers have moved away from cassette gears again. My Fireblade from 2005 (SC57) had something like that installed, changing it was child's play. With the next generation, Honda has said goodbye to it again. A shame!

And for the ZZR...yes, that's the original color. In the 90's there were color schemes at Kawa that were...interesting! For example, the ZZR600 came in purple/white/red/silver with red rims...

Or my 2001 ZX-9R was purple/red/silver with red rims and green decals...crazy times back then.

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Certainly not repainted but in its original color scheme… only in 1993.

Don't listen to that French gibberish because I don't understand that either, but a nice commercial for those days.
I've never seen one in that color as we never got that color combo here...

Although Suzuki did send us some psychedelic colors in the '90s

They called that bike the ZX11R here...

We also got a ZZR but it was more of a sports tourer.

ZZR.jpg
 
I've never seen one in that color as we never got that color combo here...

Although Suzuki did send us some psychedelic colors in the '90s

They called that bike the ZX11R here...

We also got a ZZR but it was more of a sports tourer.

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That is a coincidence, it’s a ZZR 1200 and I have one just like that.
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In '99 I bought a busa to trade it in for a ZX 12R the following year. Were both beasts of engines.

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Back then I bought every year a new bike and in 2003 was my next Suzuki, a GSXR 1000 K3... loved that bike:
 
That is a coincidence, it’s a ZZR 1200 and I have one just like that.
View attachment 1667747

In '99 I bought a busa to trade it in for a ZX 12R the following year. Were both beasts of engines.

View attachment 1667748
Back then I bought every year a new bike and in 2003 was my next Suzuki, a GSXR 1000 K3... loved that bike:
Oh yeahaaaa! The ZX-12R what a great bike and to my shame I have to say I always liked it better than the Hayabusa as it was more motorcycle looking. At that time I couldn't afford such an expensive bike, but I often pressed my nose against the window of the motorcycle shop.

My finest bike from that grand era was a ZX-9R in Lime Green, the last one before the ZX-10R came along. The bike could actually do everything, from soft to hard! Just a typical carburetor bike.

But......then I test drove the ZX-10R, which was much more strenuous, more demanding, lacked that good-natured character....but her engine, goodness gracious....what a bitch ( in a positive sense).

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Last night I fitted my new Garmin GPS, and the brackets/bar to mount it on, onto my V-Strom DL1000X.
I've been setting this bike up to tour the country once I quit working and ya never know when you might just need a GPS to get off the beaten track and go exploring.
I went for a ride and found that it is actually quite distracting but I know I'll adjust to it and its actually got an on/off switch lol.
Pretty neat though, she's a big 'un at 6.5 inches!

IMG_3179 (2).JPG
 
Last night I fitted my new Garmin GPS, and the brackets/bar to mount it on, onto my V-Strom DL1000X.
I've been setting this bike up to tour the country once I quit working and ya never know when you might just need a GPS to get off the beaten track and go exploring.
I went for a ride and found that it is actually quite distracting but I know I'll adjust to it and its actually got an on/off switch lol.
Pretty neat though, she's a big 'un at 6.5 inches!

View attachment 1667773
With a screen like that, it’s hard to get lost. Like the screens says… I think you're ready to navigate, happy journeys!
You just slip out the back, Jack
Make a new plan, Stan
You don't need to be coy, Roy
Just get yourself free…
 
I pulled the carbs of my yamalama and did a little clean and rejet. It had been running poorly since last spring and around that time I bought my Gen 1 busa. So this bike got put on the back burner. But I’ve been missing riding it. So pulled the carbs, swapped out some jets, shims and pms ect and hopefully this’ll get it back on the road and happy. This bike has been my pride and joy for about 10 years now. I bought it in stock form and soon after I got it I got clipped by a car on it. So after that I began the process of rebuild and turning it into my idea of a low stout chopper/bobber. It’s a lot of fun to ride and I love getting out and ripping on it.


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I pulled the carbs of my yamalama and did a little clean and rejet. It had been running poorly since last spring and around that time I bought my Gen 1 busa. So this bike got put on the back burner. But I’ve been missing riding it. So pulled the carbs, swapped out some jets, shims and pms ect and hopefully this’ll get it back on the road and happy. This bike has been my pride and joy for about 10 years now. I bought it in stock form and soon after I got it I got clipped by a car on it. So after that I began the process of rebuild and turning it into my idea of a low stout chopper/bobber. It’s a lot of fun to ride and I love getting out and ripping on it.


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Looks fun.....
 
Got an annual Va State Inspection Sticker yesterday(checks lights, horn, tires, brakes, etc), $16, 5 minutes.
Me and my friends with the '23 Bmw S1kR, and another with a Buell are heading to the Back of the Dragon, near Tazwell In southwest Va, this Friday morning, June 30th, 2023, if anyone else will be in the area.

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