The small improvement from timing is more than offset by running way fat. "Son, fat and lazy is no way to go through life" - animal house.
This is probably off topic, but lets also debunk the whole "air box leaking" problems mentioned in this thread. High flow - low pressure systems are completely insensitive to leaks - fact. Just because people sell solutions to seal up your ram air, it makes virtually no difference.
Try this experiment. Take your wifes 8" frying pan and hang it out the car window at 70 mph. Your frying pan has about 50 in2 area (about the same as the inlets of your Busa), and a Cd of about 1.3, sor at 70, you will generate almost exactly 5 lbs of force, and almost exactly 0.1 psi of pressure on the pan. A lot of old school bikes running Lectrons run a plate in back of the carbs to create this kind of "ram air" and it works pretty good with no box at all. Anyway, drill a great big 1" hole in the middle of your wifes frying pan
BTW, I'm divorced and on 2nd wife. Anyway take your newly modified frying pan up to 70 and record the drag (pressure) and it will be the same! As hard as the air trys to leak through the hole, you have a huge mass of air hitting the frying pan at 70. The hole makes no difference. This is why the Suzuki engineers made provisions for the water to drain out of the air box, and why the quick disconnect foam around the air box doesn't need to be hermetically sealed. These guys are much smarter than many of you give them credit for.
On my ZX12 (RIP) I recorded ram air pressures of 20 - 70 mm of Hg. Need to repeat the measurement on the Gen II. That just a bit over 1 psi! Thats enourmous, and is worth about 10 HP. Back to the point of the thread, disabling the mapping for this is just silly, and tuning on a dyno without ram air is just the begining of a good tune. If your Gen II isn't going 153 to 154 MPH in the quarter mile, its not tuned right yet, or you screwed it up.
Don't forget to put some duct tape on that frying pan... good as new.