ZX11 efi turbo build

That's true.......I'll slow it down...take it easy and test out what I got now :)
I did already have this part I got for $220 used a couple yes ago...I'm just now installing it,cause I was gonna put in my stroker big block build,until I changed my mind to go turbo route last dec.
believe me man... I wanna see it be successful... ALOT of people do.... but these budget builds are insanely difficult to get to run correctly.
 
Thanks :)

I agree they are tough to get right

I was hesitant with the carbed turbos having a lot of pistons melting,but it was more than the efi guys were having...

.I'm optimistic with running the smart ecu... combined with a good tune I'm hoping for many happy miles :)

I'm not gonna push it to much till I build bottom end up
 
My backup bike,while I've been working on ZX11

'86 V65

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im bustin ure ballz… but really though... it would be a good idea to make sure it runs before shelling out for all these parts.... and u mentioned u were gonna run a big turbo... with a used rod in there... be careful... busas generally go to 310-340 hp with stock rods... for a period of time anyway.

Btw....theres no different from a used rod,or new one,if it's in spec....as far as I'm concerned.....that's all it needed.....it would've been a waste of money to buy new.....and stock zx11 rods are good to 350-400hp....Steve Rice even used stock zx11 rods in his 500hp alcohol bike......your thinking of busa's at 310-340

Turbo bikes should get 80-100k miles with no problems.. if treated right

Stock can go 150-200k with no internal engine work.
 
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Build it right once.
I mean if your taking the poop apart why ot throw good rods and pistons etc in it.
 
I agree to put good parts in....but just because they are used....doesnt mean they aren't "good"...they are in spec, and throwing them away, would be throwing money away.

where I first rebuilt my old zx1000,in '91, because of one rod spun...I replaced all main and rod bearings....that was stupid, ill never do stuff like that again,I only replace the faulty parts.
 
I agree to put good parts in....but just because they are used....doesnt mean they aren't "good"...they are in spec, and throwing them away, would be throwing money away.

where I first rebuilt my old zx1000,in '91, because of one rod spun...I replaced all main and rod bearings....that was stupid, ill never do stuff like that again,I only replace the faulty parts.
Main and rod bearings are cheap enough, that 75% of the time if I split the cases,,,,for the $250 it cost to replace them. I will
 
Stock are good rods....now I do plan on carillon later.....but that's not in the budget till another year.....and Imy not waiting a year to own/ride a turbo bike....just have to keep the boost down for stock.....only rea son people blow stock rods,is running to high boost

Btw: the video is from the second year he wanted to hit 720hp.....the year before he hit 580hp....you'll know this happens more with dyno kings
 
I'm trying to figure out how to wire my microsquit wled output,to my davies-craig water pump.

....the water pump has 2 wires....2 amp fused power,and ground....I could just wire to my fuse box.....but I want to control it ,to come on,at set iat "Intake Air Temp" setting.....that way it's not always on...like I'm cruising around under boost,I don't need it running.


And use aled for intercooler fan control,at set iat temp.
 
I found rust in my tank....so I've been letting it sit in cleaner last couple of weeks....and trying to getting water pump wired in right....

....I did start it up a couple of days ago.....with a temporary gas tank hooked up
 
I found rust in my tank....so I've been letting it sit in cleaner last couple of weeks....and trying to getting water pump wired in right....

....I did start it up a couple of days ago.....with a temporary gas tank hooked up
nice... run good? got a video?
 
it's been on hold for acouple weeks.....i was testing something with tunerstudio....and fried something......sent out to fix......should get in few days.....i moved my radiator out (top) a half inch,and cut back one stock fan bracket......so I can fit my 2 1/4 piping through.....so just afew things I didn't count on.....but I'm excited its moving along....albeit slow,but maybe get it on a test drive next week
 
I'm keeping it low cost diy...an enjoying these hurdles.....i do have a new respect for the price of the "kits" out there.....its alot of work/thinking/fabbing/techno.....to put it together....one thing I want to do is start a video channel about modding my bikes.....if for only my own archive.....lol.....a great grandpa "looking back" reminiscing....hahaha
 
I'm keeping it low cost diy...an enjoying these hurdles.....i do have a new respect for the price of the "kits" out there.....its alot of work/thinking/fabbing/techno.....to put it together....one thing I want to do is start a video channel about modding my bikes.....if for only my own archive.....lol.....a great grandpa "looking back" reminiscing....hahaha
that's why im interested in the build... the kits look expensive until u start dealing with "issues"... even on a high dollar build... weird things creep in... that's why I talk soo highly of frank... he got alllll my systems working flawlessly... boost by gear/starts and idles and rides great.. and its aloooooooot of electricasl systems working together.... I would have spent the rest of my life staring at the wiring harness trying to figure things out... then u gotta figure intop the equation... what is my time worth? its hard
 
I agree Ali....and thanks Nastee

past few weeks....working on figuring out how to wire afew things to microsquirt

I think I figured ed out how to wire water pump,fan,and future nos and air shifter.....power from fuse box goes to 85 and 30....then power continues to device from 87....and 86 goes to microsquirt output to control device (wled,aled,flex,fidle...,ect...) the only thing I think might be ok....is if it's very little power device,like boost solenoid....might not need a relay...just take output,like fidle,straight to boost control....and second wire on solenoid to ground....so maybe air shift solenoid doesn't need a relay either

26C7C0BA-24A0-43AF-A563-78387C3B8C5A.jpg
 
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