If I'm not mistaken, the neutral indicator light is from the blue wire, but the ECU uses the GPS for picking the neutral map. So isn't this really 1523455?
20 cent RPM eliminator
- Thread starter High-Gain Busa
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High-Gain Busa
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No, but you're not too far off.
Neutral to the ECM is 5v and the 22k ohm resistor does not pull it low enough to think any different. If too low of a value were used, 10k - 12k it would pull it low and it would display 1623455 or even possibly 1623456 so 6th would be displayed in neutral all the time. This is why when shifting from neutral to first now at a stop light you will see a momentary 6 when trying to hit 1st or sometimes if you move the lever very slow it will blip a 6.
With the 22k it is solid... I did almost 200 miles yesterday with a sport bike group and other then an occasional 6 blip between gears which is normal 1_23455 was solid.
Rich
Wow this is awesome and an even better explination of your findings on the gears and relevant ohm loads! My only question on this is where am i going to get the 1.21Gigawatts when I hit 88 MPH?
Evil_keeps_me_young
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great scott?!?!?! 1.21Gigawatts!!!
Does this mean we could all go 200mph for a buck?
High-Gain Busa
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You and four of your friends can go 200 for a buck
High-Gain Busa
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WarBirdII
What's the part number of the switch. I'll take a look at it to see how it should be wired for you.
Maybe post a pic of the switch...
What's the part number of the switch. I'll take a look at it to see how it should be wired for you.
Maybe post a pic of the switch...
Oh, I am good on the wiring! Thanks for the diagram above.!!! The switch is from Walmart. My brother had a spare for using it to turn his amps. on and off for his stereo. Mine is just trying to find a place on the bike that is in reach and doesn't look out of place. Ran out of time this evening! The G/F came over and ate up 2 hours of my time. I was going to run the wires up to the switch from the GPS wires..(Red & Black wire)(tap into the GPS harness) and add a connector so I can remove the switch and panel as a complete assy. Still haven't found a spot yet, again ran out time. I will post some pics. as I a chance to work on the bike after work.
Wow, cool, being one of the guys doing gps mods (never for anything near $70-$80), i must say if it works, very nice.
As long as the momentary 6 is just when you flip into that gear and not bounce around to it every once and a while shouldn't be an issue, nice thinking, that idea never crossed my mind.
Greg
As long as the momentary 6 is just when you flip into that gear and not bounce around to it every once and a while shouldn't be an issue, nice thinking, that idea never crossed my mind.
Greg
High-Gain Busa
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Greg
Thanks for the support.
Yes, the gear position stays solid; it cannot electronically bounce or change. Rather than the occasional current neutral light flick I will see a 6th gear indication flick but you have to really be watching for it and really slide a shift. I rarely use my clutch to up shift so I don't notice it. I have many contacts in the manufacturing business and employees in Taiwan and South China. Many riders need a plug and ride solution and are not up to soldering. It would be easy to encase the part, use OEM connectors, add a switch etc, etc and brand it "BoostBySmith"
Thanks for the support.
Yes, the gear position stays solid; it cannot electronically bounce or change. Rather than the occasional current neutral light flick I will see a 6th gear indication flick but you have to really be watching for it and really slide a shift. I rarely use my clutch to up shift so I don't notice it. I have many contacts in the manufacturing business and employees in Taiwan and South China. Many riders need a plug and ride solution and are not up to soldering. It would be easy to encase the part, use OEM connectors, add a switch etc, etc and brand it "BoostBySmith"
Thanks. That was the only part I was unsure about.
High-Gain Busa
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WarBirdII
Looking forward to it. I would like to see you do the mod and leave out the lighted part of the switch before testing.
There is a skeptic on Busanation.com as you have seen that says this cannot work... I am here to say, I have over 300 mile on my Busa since saturday and it works. There are even further tricks that can be done with this.
Looking forward to it. I would like to see you do the mod and leave out the lighted part of the switch before testing.
There is a skeptic on Busanation.com as you have seen that says this cannot work... I am here to say, I have over 300 mile on my Busa since saturday and it works. There are even further tricks that can be done with this.
High Gain:
Here is a update! Not done yet. One when the switch is turned (resistor in series with pink and black wire) on the gear indicator reads 1-(No 0)"Green light (N) on"-2-3-4-5-5(6th gear). With it open, back to stock it reads 1-N-2-3-4-5-6. (Normal Operation). Now if you switch it on, while the bike is in N and the screen goes blank...(no N on the display) the idle changes rpm. Just something I noticed. I haven't riden the bike as of yet. Still putting things back together, and need to find a 12 volt source for the LED circuit.
Here is a update! Not done yet. One when the switch is turned (resistor in series with pink and black wire) on the gear indicator reads 1-(No 0)"Green light (N) on"-2-3-4-5-5(6th gear). With it open, back to stock it reads 1-N-2-3-4-5-6. (Normal Operation). Now if you switch it on, while the bike is in N and the screen goes blank...(no N on the display) the idle changes rpm. Just something I noticed. I haven't riden the bike as of yet. Still putting things back together, and need to find a 12 volt source for the LED circuit.
High/ gain Busa:
Now for the bummer and bitoch part that has taken a good portion of the night!!!! I had to take 2 switches apart to make one. I opened both up and looked at how the LED was configured. (I ended up killing on of the LEDs) I reversed the direction of the LED in the switch so it comes on when the switch is turned on. The 3 pin switch is labeled Earth(Ground), Load, and Supply. I had to reverse the earth side and load side connection of the diode (since the diode only works one way) Power flowed load to earth (stock switch) I turned the diode around to flow earth to load as High Gain Showed in his diagram. This took me alittle time to catch a simple mistake in electric flow. Power flows one way in a LED (Diode).
Well back to the picture taking and finding my 12v keyed source.(Just found it and putting things back together.)
Later
WBII
Now for the bummer and bitoch part that has taken a good portion of the night!!!! I had to take 2 switches apart to make one. I opened both up and looked at how the LED was configured. (I ended up killing on of the LEDs) I reversed the direction of the LED in the switch so it comes on when the switch is turned on. The 3 pin switch is labeled Earth(Ground), Load, and Supply. I had to reverse the earth side and load side connection of the diode (since the diode only works one way) Power flowed load to earth (stock switch) I turned the diode around to flow earth to load as High Gain Showed in his diagram. This took me alittle time to catch a simple mistake in electric flow. Power flows one way in a LED (Diode).
Well back to the picture taking and finding my 12v keyed source.(Just found it and putting things back together.)
Later
WBII
High-Gain Busa
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WarBirdII
Sounds like everything but maybe the LED is ready to go... So far so good
Here's an LED crash course that may help in the future.
1. Current flows the direction the arrow points in the schematic, from Anode to Cathode or + to -
2. If the LED in new, one leg will be longer then the other, the negative leg is shorter
3. If the LED has been installed in a circuit and the legs have been trimmed, the base of the LED has a flat spot on the negative leg side.
4. The arrows pointing away from the Diode in a schematic designate it as a light emitting Diode, arrows pointing at it would be a photo diode.
5. LED's are not designed to be reverse biased like a zener diode, it can damage them.
6. Standard silicon diodes have a forward bias voltage of .5-.7 volts. LED's are in the 1.2-1.7 volt range depending on type.
Sounds like everything but maybe the LED is ready to go... So far so good
1. Current flows the direction the arrow points in the schematic, from Anode to Cathode or + to -
2. If the LED in new, one leg will be longer then the other, the negative leg is shorter
3. If the LED has been installed in a circuit and the legs have been trimmed, the base of the LED has a flat spot on the negative leg side.
4. The arrows pointing away from the Diode in a schematic designate it as a light emitting Diode, arrows pointing at it would be a photo diode.
5. LED's are not designed to be reverse biased like a zener diode, it can damage them.
6. Standard silicon diodes have a forward bias voltage of .5-.7 volts. LED's are in the 1.2-1.7 volt range depending on type.
High-Gain Busa
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System is crashing a lot tonight
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