20 cent RPM eliminator

LED works great. I had a problem with the green one when trying to turn it around in the switch. Arched it!!! I am having trouble getting the photos off my camera. It has been one of thoughs nights! Trust me I am good at electricail repairs and making things. Look at my web site in the bottom of my Sig. Re did the all of the wiring in the v8 powered miata.
 
Here is what I found tonight. Small ride down the street to get warmed up. When you stop the bike with the switch off, and you pull in the clutch the rpm changes. When the switch is on, no rpm change. The rpm is 200 rpm high then in when in neutral and the display reading 0. But if the switch is on and NO 0 but in neutral, it is slightly higher. I haven't top speed tested it.
 
But this reminds of a problem I had on my 02 1k. When I got the bike the clutch switch went bad. I just jumped it for years. Then I came across an article form sport rider saying the racers use to do that (Jump the clutch switch!) To avoid having to install one on there race bikes. So I spent some time and fixed the clutch switch. The article says it puts the bike into a different fuel and timing map. When you pull in the clutch, the switch closes and tell the computer to lower the idle, due to no load etc. No harm was ever done, but you can hear and tell the bike runs different.

When the bike is stock the rpm is at 1200rpm. When I turn the switch on, it raises the rpm and advances the timing some. You can hear it and see the change. So I guess the bike thinks it is in 5th gear and with the clutch pulled in! Just my guess.
 
WarBirdII @ Apr. 14 2008 said:
The G/F came over and ate up 2 hours of my time.
Click to expand...
Dude, the g/f should never get time until you are DONE with the Busa FIRST!

laugh.gif


I do have a question for all y'all, though: Will this same product work on the Gen 1 Busa?

--Wag--
 
High Gain:

Here is what happened to the first LED. When I was turning it around, because the power flow for the circuit in the switch didn't allow it to flow right, I had a piece of the LED leg short to the other side of the circuit. I didn't see this because it was together and out of site. I pulled the switch apart, and the leg was close to were I put it. But, I checked out again with my meter and the LED would work in its proper flow path. Open circuit the LED! SO I took the other switch I had and pull it apart. The LED legs were thicker and reversed the LED in to the first switch I was using. Seems to worked out so far. I will keep you posted on any changes I find besides the idle and timing increase in neutral with the switch on!

WBII
 
Oh and my camera is giving me fits, I can not upload any of the pics.!
argue.gif
Pi$$ed off and want to throw it!!!
 
I'm going to do this mod this weekend but I DO want to install a switch so the indicator is correct and no inttermitent 6 gear blips or any other side effects when I don't want to use it. May not do a lighted switch just because I don't feel like running extra wire. I'll most likely use a simple small toggle switch and just remember which position is on and which is off. My question is will this switch add resistance in addition to the resistor and change what ohm resistor is used or will the resistance through the switch vary with quality or should it just always be zero? Thanks.
 
WAG:

Well the G/F made those 2 hours worth the break from the Busa! To answer your ? yes the switch can be done to a gen 1 busa too.

Bike Dude:

Yes, a toggle switch will work. You will be able to tell when it is switched over. NO 0 inidcated for Neutral position. I haven't seen the 6 blip that high gain has indicated, but I will watch the bike for it. The switch will not add resistance to the circuit. I have my switch mounted to the lower plastic facia near the shift indicator. I wanted the light on it so I know it was on. I like the fact that I can keep my gear indicator working correctly until I want to play with 6th gear !!!!!
firedevil.gif
 
Quote: (High-Gain Busa @ Apr. 14 2008, 12:22 PM)

I went back a few posts and saw this!!! So are you sure the bike isn't seeing 1-5-2-3-4-5-(5) for 6th gear. 5th for N. No worries, just noticed the idle higher and more timing in neutral with the switch on.
 
I don't have a higher idle but I don't have a switch or LED. I did some video with it today. If I can find a place to post the video you will hear the engine. There are several others trying that have pm'd me for help. They can add their findings also.

You really have to watch for the 6 blip inbetween shifts only, I caught it in the video. It lasts about as long as the neutral indicator flash when going from first to second.
 
I will look for that when I ride in to work in a few hours!!! I know you have yours directly inline, I think the computer sees the change and makes the difference in Rpm and Timing I am feeling and seeing! I keep you posted on hoe it works out for me. Thanks for the help!
 
That is when I flip the switch back and forth. I think it is like pulling in on the clutch switch, the computer is getting a imput and changing what it thinks it need at that time.
 
Video clip of the 22k ohm mod 1_23455 with 6th gear blip... It took 9 tries and I really had to baby the up shift to get it to happen and it only occurred on up shift as you will see. You can't blink as it's when the GPS is sliding off of the 5th gear resistor onto the 6th gear resistor. It's a solid mod and has been working great. You may not get this to happen at all... I would like to hear feedback for those of you that have done the mod.

You may also notice (hear) I don't use the clutch when up shifting... rarely do at any RPM. This may have something to do with seeing the blip if you use the clutch and don't get it to happen.


video.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
picture of some magazine which tried to avoid 6th limiter, they just didn´t have right values... hmm maybe gen1 values?

i think i´ll have to make 22k mod on first oil change
beerchug.gif
 
Sure sounds like they received bad information about the GPS resistor values.... 700ohms in 5th.... NOT.

6800 ohms to be exact. No wonder a 700 ohm resistor threw it for a loop... sounds like they were playing resistor roulette.

The parallel formula is quite easy RT = 1 / ((1 / R1) + (1 / R2) + (1 / R3)). and a reciprocal key on a calculator turns this into a 5 second task, sometimes called a one over X key.

recip.jpg
 
Watched your video and caught the rpm's at idle. YOur idle is higher then stock, I can also tell the timing is advanced too!!! Damn you shift fast thought the gears!!!
 
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