huge improvement, expensive but well worth itDam big change.
Yes he provided everything needed including best lights going, wiring, proper replacement fuse block so leds function properly legit plug & play. Wish I had done this sooner.Do theu come with aftermarket bulb sockets and wires and bulbs
Yes found out the hard way on way to work 1st or 2nd year owning bike. That was an expensive tow. Had oil being pulled up threw breather tube into air box after over filling oil. Did not know what was wrong till i pulled air filter for maintenance & found lots of oil which was being expelled out exhaust.Really I didn't know that so if your oil level is low F1
light comes on and the busa will not start ??
c-10 cut his very nicely. You can adjust the position of the clutch/ brake reservoir also to fit better.I need some input guys please I got to let the person know if Im going to purchase these any ideas has anyone cut their windshield anyone else do this mod with my set up thanks in advance
c-10 cut his very nicely. You can adjust the position of the clutch/ brake reservoir also to fit better.
Look under appearance mods, parts & mods or search he does lots of how to videos. He had pictures but don't remember what listed under.Do he have any pictures of his, I went ahead and bought the helibars so I got to make it work some how
I took a couple of pictures maybe you could look at them and let me know please
That's not the stock top plate, and it's hard for me to tell from your avatar, but is the front end lowered?
The forks may be raised up an inch, dropping the front, and losing bar clearance.
I would eyeball and make some reference measurements from random set locations around the windshield and nose fairing, to make sure the bracket they mount to is not bent.
If the bars only barely touch at full turn, you won't have any problems. Windshields are easy to trim too, but it looks more like it's the nose fairing under it where the bars are hitting.
I think the easiest solution is to drop the forks in the trees 3/8" to 1/4".
That's not the stock top plate, and it's hard for me to tell from your avatar, but is the front end lowered?
The forks may be raised up an inch, dropping the front, and losing bar clearance.
I would eyeball and make some reference measurements from random set locations around the windshield and nose fairing, to make sure the bracket they mount to is not bent.
If the bars only barely touch at full turn, you won't have any problems. Windshields are easy to trim too, but it looks more like it's the nose fairing under it where the bars are hitting.
I think the easiest solution is to drop the forks in the trees 3/8" to 1/4".
That's not the stock top plate, and it's hard for me to tell from your avatar, but is the front end lowered?
The forks may be raised up an inch, dropping the front, and losing bar clearance.
I would eyeball and make some reference measurements from random set locations around the windshield and nose fairing, to make sure the bracket they mount to is not bent.
If the bars only barely touch at full turn, you won't have any problems. Windshields are easy to trim too, but it looks more like it's the nose fairing under it where the bars are hitting.
I think the easiest solution is to drop the forks in the trees 3/8" to 1/4".
Its not hitting now, I have installed the helibars yet but they will be mailed off tomorrow
Let some others look too, but I think the front is a little low and That is your problem.
Most wouldn't change the top plate unless they wanted to lower it anyway.
And given how close your bars are to the fairing, and the height of the forks, I'de say it's a little lower than stock in the front.
C'mon man . . . pics or it didn't happen . . . . . . . .Ordered a set of Samco silicone cooler hoses , in black . Changed my rear brake pump shaft over to ti , to fit the Gilles rearset better for my boot . The standard shaft is actually lighter aluminum , but is too short for my adjustment , and I junked the heavy heim joint setup I had been running for a now overall lighter setup .