Uh oh....now your secret is out.....
Tricky very tricky.....
I'd still fix a paint bubble verses covering it up....
That decal kind of blends in there but it might not have blended in all spots...right?
What Did You Do To Your Busa, Today?
- Thread starter SoCal Blur
- Start date
Uh oh....now your secret is out.....
Tricky very tricky.....
I'd still fix a paint bubble verses covering it up....
That decal kind of blends in there but it might not have blended in all spots...right?
I would still have to sand it to smooth it out, because the paint is bubbled up.
white.Busa
Registered
Mabupa some things are just in our minds, in our hayabusa there are details that we only see. I want to say that it might not be a big problem staying the way it is. Do you have a photo of the whole motorcycle and not just the sign?I would still have to sand it to smooth it out, because the paint is bubbled up.
Hey Greg, what’s the billed time for both fork seals to be replaced, three hours? And while they’re off, replace the tire and rotors and pads? Maybe an hour more?
Tached1300
Registered
If there is an imperfection in those pics I can’t see it
white.Busa
Registered
i don't see anything there, are these photos with or without color peeling? But in this place, no one will look. Drive and don't think about it bro.
Got em, finally! 
I’ll be bedding them in over the next few days. Put around 50 miles on them meandering home. They certainly feel different, like the pads are scuffing the flutes in the rotors unlike the smooth OEMs. Gonna work on removing the old glue from the weights.
I’ll be bedding them in over the next few days. Put around 50 miles on them meandering home. They certainly feel different, like the pads are scuffing the flutes in the rotors unlike the smooth OEMs. Gonna work on removing the old glue from the weights.
A little Kerosene will take that glue right off...used it on mine this past summer.Got em, finally!
I was really close to the imperfection when I took the other pic. Is not something that most would notice, but like @Yellow09 said, I know is there. I’m off tomorrow, so I’ll try to touch it up.
These we taken before I upgraded the rearsets. You couldn’t see it’ll the imperfection if I took a pic now from the same distance, but I know is there. It’s just my OCD.
2 hours for fork seals and fork oil replacement,
Rotors and pads another hour.... yeah, 3 hours is it, for me, but I could probably do the job a little faster if all went smoothly.
They wanted an hour and a half for each leg, writing on the work order, “fork rebuild” and another hour for the rotors, pads and tire, @ $100 per. I figured a half hour for everything but the forks.
Damn I guess the $480 if I remember correctly for the Ohlins wasn't so bad.They wanted an hour and a half for each leg, writing on the work order, “fork rebuild” and another hour for the rotors, pads and tire, @ $100 per. I figured a half hour for everything but the forks.
All they did was R&R the fork seals. They didn’t ‘rebuild’ the forks.
Of course they have to come off same as replacing with Ohlins. It would’ve been just $300 for the fork seals alone.
An hour for the rotors, pads and did you say tire? If they are fitting and balancing a new tire to the front wheel . . as well as the pads and rotors replacement, an hour is about right.They wanted an hour and a half for each leg, writing on the work order, “fork rebuild” and another hour for the rotors, pads and tire, @ $100 per. I figured a half hour for everything but the forks.
We charge $90 plus 15% tax for labor at our shop.
There are 'book times' for jobs such as these. Some jobs go smoothly and quickly, others can have seized bolts etc, especially rotor bolts. The steel bolts in the alloy hub often has the electrolysis ' dreaded crusty white powder syndrome' and can be murder to remove without chewing out the internal hex or torx drive.
Sometimes they have been Loctited in place and I've had to use the old 'dot-punch' method a few times, usually works to get them turning. But it's so time consuming having to employ these methods, so yeah, I guess it's swings and roundabouts, ya win some, ya lose some.
I reckon some of the bike shops in the US need ol' Kiwi to come sort out staff issues and set things right lol. If I was 20 years younger . . mutter, mutter .
Bigpopa64
Registered
I got those on my busa AKA the Falcon, when I first got them I was like what did I do they will drive you nuts for about 2months and depending how much you ride, so it will get better I put EBC double h pads on mine when the rotors were changed out. The only other thing is the rotors get really sharp and will cut your fingers when cleaning your wheels other than that I love them to me they are good qualityGot em, finally!
white.Busa
Registered
I received my new goodies. The titanium bolts are extremely lightweight , now i understand the titaniummania
of c10 and ROADTOAD1340
Pro-Bolt Ti Top Yoke Nut Ti Suz GSX1300R
Pro-Bolt TI Flanged Nut M25 x 1.50 Rear Wheel Black GSX1300R Hayabusa 08-11
(black color, i hope it doesn't peel off the tire changes - I wanted to match with the black sprocket and the Gilles black chain Adjusters)
Galfer Stainless Steel Hydraulic Clutch Line
of c10 and ROADTOAD1340
Pro-Bolt Ti Top Yoke Nut Ti Suz GSX1300R
- Weight in Gms: 34.5900
- Bar Code: 5053573516725
Pro-Bolt TI Flanged Nut M25 x 1.50 Rear Wheel Black GSX1300R Hayabusa 08-11
(black color, i hope it doesn't peel off the tire changes - I wanted to match with the black sprocket and the Gilles black chain Adjusters)
- Weight in Gms: 42.0000
- Bar Code: 5053573510495
- Country of Manufacture: United Kingdom
Galfer Stainless Steel Hydraulic Clutch Line
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